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nail puller

Started by xlogger, September 28, 2014, 07:39:20 AM

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xlogger

Looking at some nail pullers on amazon, just wondering what works best other than a cat claw and hammer for getting nails out when you cut the logs? What do you guys use that works well and faster?
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

slider

I found one on ebay that was better built than those on amazon for about 30 bucks.It was the same style.The jaws seemed to be better on this older tool.
al glenn

DR_Buck



This is what you need.




There was a thread that talked about this some time ago: 

   https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,16303.msg237728.html#msg237728




Been there, done that.   Never got caught [/b]
Retired and not doing much anymore and still not getting caught

backwoods sawyer

I have a whole toolbox full of just metal digging tools ;D
A nail puller like shown is in there,

But the handiest is a roll of sharp chisles, take a 1 1/2"  chisle 4 whacks and now you have removed a 1 1/2" square chunck and can see what you are dealing with. Vise grips and chanel locks are the next choise at that point as they will roll nails right out.

Also a long heavy screw driver that has a metal butt plate designed to be used with a hammer works if you have to dig deeper.

Keep an assortment of hammers in there as well from an 8 oz to a 3 lb

And then there is the chainsaw for the heavy metal logs ;D
Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

Chuck White

I use a hammer and screwdriver to cut a divet around the imbedded nail, screw, etc, then I clamp onto it with a pair of vicegrips and pull it out!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

bandmiller2

I have one of those slid hammer nail pullers they kinda work on a lot of nails. I have a large pair of end nipper pliers that works better, clear a hole with an old wood chisel grab the offending nail and pry it out. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Red Clay Hound

I use a hammer, a 3/4" chisel and a big pair of vice grips.  It gets about 90% of the nails, screws, etc.  Unfortunately, I have had a lot of experience removing nails from logs! taz-smiley
2007 Wood-Mizer LT40 Super Hydraulic with 51 hp. Cat; 2007 Wood-Mizer EG200 Twin Blade Edger; Woodmaster 718 Molder/Planer; Stihl MS460 and MS362 Chainsaws; 2011 John Deere 5065 with JD 553 Loader

Brad_bb

Funny you bring this up now.  I am getting ready to make a video on nail pulling.  I'm de-nailing some old hardwood timbers and they have a variety of nail types and sizes.  One of the worst is the brittle ones that the shank snaps when you try to pull it.  Some heads are so weak they just crumble.  Good quality nails are easier to pull- strong enough that they pull without deforming much, but soft enough so they don't snap.  I think you'll be interested in the different techniques I attempt to document and some tools that perhaps not everyone has seen or had experience with. 
If anyone wants to detail some of their techniques, I'd love to find any that I am not aware of to add to the list.
  For de-nailing timbers, my goal is to do as little damage as possible to the timber.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

fstedy

I have to agree with DR Buck thats the best puller for nails and staples. You can use the sliding handle to hammer the claws down around the nail and then extend the handle for extra leverage. Vice grips work best for screws and lags. You can't go wrong with one of these.

Timberking B-20   Retired and enjoying every minute of it.
Former occupations Electrical Lineman, Airline Pilot, Owner operator of Machine Shop, Slot Machine Technician and Sawmill Operator.
I know its a long story!!!

backwoods sawyer

Have to agree, thanks DR Buck for bring this old post "Handy sawmill tricks or things I've just come to know" back up.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,16303.0.html

Backwoods Custom Milling Inc.
100% portable. . Oregons largest portable sawmill service, serving all of Oregon, from our Backwoods to yours..sawing since 1991

Peter Drouin

If the head of the nail is not right on top I use the nose of my chainsaw. Make a square and pop it out. Sometimes the customer has square holes in his lumber. :D
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

FarmingSawyer

The old pincer/lever style nail pullers are good....the sliding handle means you can ram it into the wood and let the pincers dig under the head of the nail....in carpentry I use one when I am trying hard to do less damage than with a cats paw. But I second the vise grips!! Nothing grabs and levers out nails like them, and they're fast once you get some grip. The pincer thing can cut the nail if you don't get it just right.
Thomas 8020, Stihl 039, Stihl 036, Homelite Super EZ, Case 385, Team of Drafts

woodmills1

After using a chisel as mentioned I get most of the cut off nais with a pair of wire cutters, but you need strong hands.  If they fail it is vise grips.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Magicman

A cordless drill is always with me.  Drilling a hole(s) will loosen the imbedded nail.  Sometimes it takes several holes, sometimes not.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

redprospector

Quote from: DR_Buck on September 28, 2014, 08:48:09 AM


This is what you need.




There was a thread that talked about this some time ago: 

   https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,16303.msg237728.html#msg237728

My Dad had several of these in his shop. He called them "crate openers", I think his were Stanley's.
I wanted to say thanks because your post made me think of them, which made me think of my Dad, which is always a good thing. I used to have one of Dad's "crate openers", but I couldn't think of where it would be...so I got on eBay and bought another one. It's not his, but it'll do until I remember where I put his.
Thanks again.  smiley_beertoast
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

customsawyer

I use most of the things listed here. The only thing that I use different is a shingle hatchet instead of a chisel.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

ScottAR

I do lots of interior demo on houses and have several ways.  Pry bars of several lengths... Nippers, Channel lock style pliers, Vice grips, wood chisels. 

If any of the nail is sticking out I grab my nail pliers.  Found them at my local Ace hardware.  Crescent Brand #np11.  They have a round foot on one side to pry against and the pull action is directed up.

If pulling finish or headless nails out of trim or thin wood,  Pull them through the from the back.
Makes a small hole on the finish side that's easy to fill vs. a jagged mess. 
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

mesquite buckeye

I would add a good, sharp floor chisel to the tools already mentioned.
Manage 80 acre tree farm in central Missouri and Mesquite timber and about a gozillion saguaros in Arizona.

Tom L

my best technique is I just keep cutting the same log and ruin a saw blade, because most of the time I can't hear the nail cutting or see it until I pull 1 or 2 boards off.

then after putting on a new blade, I drop down a couple of inches and cut off the other end of the nail that I thought would only be a 1-1/2" down in the log.  :new_year:


I will say I have used a chisel and they work good. I have 3 or 4 that have nice grooves in the end after striking said nail. 8)

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