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cable splice ?

Started by backpacker, November 01, 2012, 02:24:39 PM

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backpacker

Afternoon: I wonder if anyone has a web site to suggest, or has instructions for putting a long splice[ eye] in a 7 strand 3/8" cable, have worked with 4 and 8 strand rope before , but getting lost with this stuff.
Its used on a norse winch, and instead of knotting the end, i want to use the eye/swivel feature of the orginal cable [until it broke off:(]
tks

Woodchuck53

You sure that isn't a standard 6x19 right hand lay cable? Is the center strand very ridgid and have a slight screw to it? Meaning the 6 wind around the center. If yes to this I think you could just put a Flemish eye in it. Unravel about 12" or so and pass the four strands back to the 3 strands in a loop configuration. pull tight till they interlock. Then weave the strands around each other. They will normally fall in place. Depending on the size of eye determines how much cable to unravel. This will be at least as strong as the original run. Gather the loose end and either put a clamp or make a sleeve you can hammer tight to the cable to protect from any burrs. Dad and i have used these around here for 40 years or so no problems. Hope this is what you were looking for. Have a safe one. Chuck
Case 1030 w/ Ford FEL, NH 3930 w/Ford FEL, Ford 801 backhoe/loader, TMC 4000# forklift, Stihl 090G-60" bar, 039AV, and 038, Corley 52" circle saw, 15" AMT planer Corley edger, F-350 1 ton, Ford 8000, 20' deck for loader and hauling, F-800 40' bucket truck, C60 Chevy 6 yd. dump truck.

thecfarm

Another Norse winch owner. I like mine. I have the 450,the one with the swivel  butt plate. We used that poor thing hard. It lives a life of ease now,just getting my firewood.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

haywire woodlot

Whenever I have to do more than just a farmer's eye splice, which should be secured with a couple of bulldog cable clamps, with the clamp's eye over the Standing part of the wire, I refer to worksafeBC's manual on splicing. It has all manner of splices used in logging and the marine industry.
You can find it online in its entirety, for free at this address.


http://www.worksafebc.com/publications/health_and_safety/by_topic/assets/pdf/splicing.pdf

WorksafeBC's online library is worth a look with all sorts of information on logging, yarding and falling operations.
Dave

backpacker

ok i guess i have to read and print a few instructions off to carry outdoors, all good stuff, tks guys.
and yes it is a center core with 6 wraps, the old knot in the end just doesn't look good:)
and the clamp termination would be a problem for sliding the bells along it, i am sure it will work out now.
a rainy day in the barn excuse to get away:)

Kevin

Can you use a preform on that cable?
Utilities use them for joining and terminating.
They go on in less than a minute and are extremely strong.

Stephen Alford

Hey folks, seems to be lots of people using cable to haul wood. Had to tune up the rats tail so I thought I would add a couple of pics. Maybe there are better techniques out there but for what its worth   ;D

  set up,tape cable

  Cut,old knot on the right

  reverse sliders

   attach to bumper tree,snap on vise grips

  give it a tug

  takes about 5 minutes.  :)
logon

Woodchuck53

That will work. Do you torch the end in to a glob afterwards are leave it exposed? Question as I have never seen that before all the slide parts and just one cable end/knot. How does that work?
Case 1030 w/ Ford FEL, NH 3930 w/Ford FEL, Ford 801 backhoe/loader, TMC 4000# forklift, Stihl 090G-60" bar, 039AV, and 038, Corley 52" circle saw, 15" AMT planer Corley edger, F-350 1 ton, Ford 8000, 20' deck for loader and hauling, F-800 40' bucket truck, C60 Chevy 6 yd. dump truck.

Stephen Alford

   If you notice a locker off a cable chocker is used just before the knot. This is the chaser, used to pick up straglers. It prevents the bells from coming off. This is an on site in the woods repair. I suppose you could use torches or a portable grinder but I have never felt the need. This is out of a fear of fire.  This is just how I was taught and seems to work around here.    :)

 
logon

lumberjack48

This is the same way i retied the mainline for 30+ yrs. I had trouble with a single knot pulling though or coming untied, so i used a figure 8 knot. After a few turns I'd take the hammer an use the edge of a fender or double bit axe to cut the burs off the end of the knot. When doing this, absolutely have safety glasses on.
I used the same slides with cable chokers with spring pins to keep from losing any chokers.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

backpacker

Evening: Did some thinking on this splicing a eye in the tail end of the mainline, and realized something... the bells are going to slide ok over a splice, BUT when a load is hooked on, they will be pulling against the exposed cable making the eye for the end hook.
which will either crush the eye or cut it off, so i am back to looking for a thimble and insert design of termination.
One that when the bells are pulling against it the [pass the loose end through to make a eye]the insert is pulled into the thimble and tightens/gripes the cable accordingly, once tightened/squeezed enough it stays where it has been set.
Going to check the web for such a item.
tks for now.

bill m

Check out Esmet safe-line clamps One source is AW Direct.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

haywire woodlot

You need a babbitless choker knob, you can probably get one where ever wire rope is sold.
Dave

backpacker

Afternoon: I found a outlet from the esmet site in this area, and all good to go, until the "minimum order" clause came up, it does look like the safe line clamp is what i was looking for, but not at this time, double the price to get one....
doing the direct e-mail and re-source a supplier from esmet.
I see where Haywire woodlot mentions a Babbitless choker knob? any site info as to what they are or look like, better to know what i am describing to the cable dudes first:)
that sthe latest of a simple idea
tks guys.

bill m

Labonville in NH has ferrules and wedges for 3/8 cable. $9.95 each on their web site.
NH tc55da Metavic 4x4 trailer Stihl and Husky saws

backpacker

Evening folks: Got a solution on its way from labonville, once the Canadian connection was setup by the company tech person, going to try the ferrule and wedge product, tks for the help and results to follow.
P.

Al_Smith

That method of doubling back is pretty easy to do .Best put the thing in a big vise to hold it .

On the end termination of course a pressed sleeve probabley works best .I've seen them done with a Crosby type clamp as well as tie wire served though which must have worked .Fact I've wire served them myself a time or two and they never pulled out .--Hint wear some stout leather gloves because wire rope can eat you up .

trapper

does anyone sell ferrules and wedges for 1/4 cable?  I use 1/4 on my arch.  Did an internet search and couldnt find any.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

Al_Smith

Try Mc Master -Carr ,they have about everything else .You can do 1/4" just like I talked about .

Fact just to show a wise azz millwright at work I could do ,so I did about a month ago .

Little wire rope like used on cable come alongs or to raise garage doors they just use either an aluminum  or copper sleeve they crimp .It won't pull out .Fact the 14 high feet by 16 wide doors on my shop are done that  way and none have failed in 16 years .I did those little cables myself using a Burndy nicro press made for crimping terminals on electrical wires .

trapper

I use the aluminum  on 1/8 and 3/32 cable which I just hammer closed.  buy them from trapping supply places but they dont carry larger ones.
stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

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