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Sawing sequence 90 or 180?

Started by Kwill, February 12, 2019, 10:02:44 PM

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Kwill

Quote from: Magicman on February 16, 2019, 01:06:10 PM
Quote from: Magicman on February 12, 2019, 10:32:29 PM
I try to never say never nor always.  My answer is it depends upon the log and the cut list.  Smaller logs tend to be 180° whereas the larger ones tend to be 90°, but even that is not always.  

I guess that I said all of that and didn't say anything.  ::)
Guess that I will quote myself.  My sequence depends upon the log and the cut list, but in reality most of mine are all 90°.   Pecker poles are mostly 180° which yield 4X4's.  I am dealing with many of them on my present job sawing over 100, 4X6's.
Magicman do you keep the log jacked up for all 4 sides?
Built my own hydraulic splitter
Built my own outdoor wood stove
Built my own log arch
built my own bandsaw sawmill
Built my own atv log arch.
Built my own FEL grapple

Chuck White

If I was sawing and flipping 90°, I would keep the toeboard up only on the opening cut and the first 90° flip!

After that you'll have a sawn surface on the bunk, no call to raise it then!  ;)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Magicman

When turning 90°, the toe board is used for the 1st and 2nd face openings.

When turning 180° they would be used for the 1st and 3rd face openings.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Southside

Well - that's what your "supposed" to do... sometimes one just needs to create long wedges!!   :D
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Magicman

Been there, even last week.  My saving grace was that I was able to turn the targeted 4X6 the other way and all was good....almost.  Almost, because the pith was still within the 4X6 but badly off center.  :-\
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

appleseedtree

I reckon I'll roll 90 for this.  I've got four 12' perfectly round, straight, about 26" D mostly tight grained SYP logs from a blow over and a standing tree that I want to make house siding out of. I've got the Wood Mizer lap siding attachment that came with the old mill but I've never used it. So tell me if I'm right about this. I believe I should use the heartwood only, and I'll only get one 8" cant from each log. Is it practical to get a couple of very small cants off the sides and make siding from those as well? Do I saw down until I hit knots then flip 180 and  make a beam the knotty center?   I'm matching siding that's already on the building and planning to put the new boards up "greenish" so I'll saw slightly oversized.

Southside

I have produced quite a bit of lap siding using my WM resaw and SYP, as long as the heart / sapwood ratio is balanced and centered, along with the knots being small and or out of the reveal it has never created an issue to use as much of the log as it will produce.  Siding is very forgiving from a stress / movement standpoint.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

appleseedtree

So maybe the sequence would be to saw off the top to get to an 8" width, roll 90 and do the same followed by a cut down to the target cant. Put that slab aside to resaw into a much smaller cant off the side but centered over the pith, roll 90 again and again and repeat yeilding 1 full size cant and 2 small cants with 4 pieces out of the corners to make smaller boards from. Did that make sense?

Magicman

Just saw until you find the apple seed in the tree.  :D



 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Southside

I guess my first question is what do you have for a saw?  When I am producing siding I basically grade saw the log to get the best grade from each face regardless of width to begin with (assuming it exceeds what I need),  turning as the grade drops, until I get down to a cant that is the size of the siding across one width.  I will then edge those flitches or boards down to my target siding size before beveling them as a final step.  The now sized cant is sawn into siding blanks, flipping 180 as needed to deal with stress.  In this case I will have some siding free of juvenile wood, and some with balanced juvenile wood.

The other method I use for a higher grade siding is to use a modified version of the RRQS method, where I will use a marker to highlight the growth rings, this way I can produce cants with vertical grain, this usually ends up with about a 6" x 6" cant in the center which can go into several other products. I then saw down through the cants producing vertical grain siding and edge as above.  

With either method the edging from the target siding is turned into a secondary product (framing, ship-lap, flooring, etc) depending on how big it is, if nothing else it becomes a sticker, so there is basically zero waste.   

I ask what kind of saw you have as this would probably become a very labor intensive method with a manual saw, with hydraulics it's easy.  The re-sawing portion is much faster than creating the initial blanks.  I have a 10' infeed and 10' outfeed roller on my re-saw, connected to the frame so that they bevel with the saw, otherwise you will have issues with longer boards flexing and creating thick and thin results.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Southside

Quote from: Magicman on February 16, 2019, 10:33:37 PM
Just saw until you find the apple seed in the tree.  :D




Wow!!  Is that real?
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

appleseedtree

Dang!  Nice apple!  I'll give your suggestion a try. 
Meanwhile, I've partnered with someone else on an LT40 hydraulic so now it's easy to turn logs. My primary objective is the siding and a few trim boards, and I'm looking for the most efficient way to get them. Not necessarily looking for the vertical grain but seeking the method that'll boost my normally low production rate.

Escavader

When sawing for grade,with a real good automatic log turner ,a sawyer can make the best grade by turning turning turning and studying the log real good.the time turning will pay for itself in profit.
Alan Bickford
Hammond lumber company/Yates American A20 planer with dbl profilers Newman feed table multiple saw trimmer destacker automatic stacking machine Baker resaw MS log corner machine  4 large capacity Nyles dehumidification kilns JCB 8000 lb forklifts woodmizer lt 15 and mp100 and blower

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