iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

First Cuts Tomorrow Morning

Started by DeepWoods, December 31, 2003, 05:12:22 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

DeepWoods

Well I think I am ready to break in my new mill.  I went to the cabin last weekend, and cut a Norway that was 18" at the butt end.  I had 4 logs that were 8' long each, but was only able to bring 2 of them home.  One of the first things I have learned is that logs do not skid well though wet snow.  The second thing I have learned is 8' logs are HEAVY.  Best estimate using the online calculator is that they weigh at least 550 and 600 lbs each.

I have spent today checking out the mill one last time.  Making sure everything is square, and all bolts are tight.  I also finished up on the log loader cables.  I will reread the owners manual later tonight to make sure I don't make any technical or safety errors.  Because it is a new engine, I plan on letting it run for a half hour or so before putting it to heavy use.  Don't know if this is needed, but seems like the right thing to do.

I plan on cutting only 1x's as this will give me the most number of cuts for each log, and this is what I use most in my shop.  I plan on taking lots of pictures, and taking my time with trying to get the most out of each log.

Now for my question.  Does anyone have any last minute advise for someone like me that has little experience in what I am about to do?  

Norwood LM2000 with 23 HP Briggs and 21 foot track, Hand Built Logging Arch, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and Setter. 48" Xtreme Duty Logrite Cant Hook.

Ed_K

 Go for it  ;). I did about the same thing, when I got my ez baker mill  8). I did change the oil after 8 hrs running time.
 Good Luck, and watch out for the saw dust, it'll get in your veins :D.
Ed K

Minnesota_boy

Don't know as I have any advice for you, but if you run into trouble and need help, give me a yell.  I don't have too much experience on that Norway pine, I've only sawed about 120,000 bd-ft of it this year.

Oh, I have some advice.  Saw the top sticks that have all the limbs when it is below freezing.  I''ve had my best luck sawing them straight when the temperature is between 10 and 25 degrees F.  :o
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Tom

Trying to get the most cuts from my first logs led to sawing 1/2 inch stuff that got stacked in a field and never used.  It's so tempting but try not to do it.   Cut your 1" with a true scale that puts the blade on the board side of the line and actually makes a 7/8's board.  Then cut 4/4 which puts the blade on the cant side of the line which gives you a full 4/4 board. Stop sawing and examine the difference.  In time it will become very important to you to know which to use.

As much as you want to cut 1" stuff, cut some 2 inch stuff too.  I started off cutting all 1" stuff and found that I didn't have anything to build something with. :D

Be sure to cut some 1X1 stickers too.  A sawyer never has enough stickers.   :D :D

Kevin

Pay attention to where the band blade is at all times and don't let anyone or anything distract you while making a cut.
For crooked logs, measure off the bed at the band and go to the other end of the log and take the same measurement off the bed, that's where the band will exit and that will tell you how big a slab you're removing.
Cut some 1x1 stickers to stack between your lumber.
Wear safety glasses and hearing protection.
Watch for any movement in the lumber being cut when the band exits, you might have to rotate the cant to remove any stress in the log.
Have fun and don't worry when you hit a dog, it happens to everyone sooner or later.

Minnesota_boy

Good advice about noticing the size of slab you're cutting to remove.  I've made a few that I couldn't carry.   :o
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Mark M

Hi Deep Woods,

Don't idle the engine too long or you can glaze the cylinder(s). Vary the speed and don't run wide open or at one speed for very long.

Good luck and have fun. As soon as this -20 stuff goes away I hope to saw a little. Have to go down south next week so it might be a while.

What kind of saw did you get?

Mark

Fla._Deadheader

  I want to add a little something to Minn-boys post. If that slab is too heavy to move, raise up from the cut and cut it again, before you take it off the log. Best to have someone help hold the slab, just in case it moves, but, we do that sometimes. The logs are big and ugly and tapered, and I just eyeball them, and start cutting.
  Sometimes I goof. ::) ::)  Watch the cut from the blade and if it cuts straight and flat, just go ahead and saw them dogs off. They are usually too long anyway. ::) :D :D :D

Have fun 8) 8) 8) 8)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

shopteacher

Good luck, good sawing, good fun.
Proud owner of a LT40HDSE25, Corley Circle mill, JD 450C, JD 8875, MF 1240E
Tilt Bed Truck  and well equipted wood shop.

Neil_B

Hope things go well at your first attempt with it. Remember to saw safely.  :)
Timberwolf / TimberPro sawmill, Woodmizer edger, both with Kubota diesels. '92 Massey Ferguson 50H backhoe, '92 Ford F450 with 14' dump/ flatbed and of course an '88 GMC 3500 pickup.

Jeff

Save your very first board and do something special with it. :) That way you can point it out years later. I'll bet there are many of us that wish we did or could. :-/I don't have my first board but I have this
https://forestryforum.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?board=sawmill;action=display;num=995648903;start=19
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

woodmills1

Thats a good idea Jeff. :D  I don't have wood from the first log I cut but the second, third an so on were some rare denim wormy pine I got for free.  I dried the stuff and the log truckers would look at it and just laugh at me.  I even thought about burning it but decided to make a coffee table from it.  You know I still get more positive comments about that table than any of the rest of the furniture in any other wood.

Just after thanksgiving had a visit from a new customer for some window trim and baseboards.  Showed the couple all of my samples and woodpiles, but it was the coffee table that sold them.  We gotta have that cause no one else will they said.  Planed square edge no moulding involved at $3.38/bd ft
Glad I saved it!  While I was doing the planing another new customer shows up and voila! 220 sg ft of tounge and groove v match. :D
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

Fla._Deadheader

Gotta love that Denim Pine. Our sawing customers look at it and say, That looks terrible. Best way to get paid is, I tell 'em, no problem, I'll just take every bit of it.  ::) ::)  THEN, they won't let it go. ;D ;D ;D ;D

   I tell 'em to go find ANYTHING built with that special Denim finish. Gets their brain gears spinning REAL fast. :D :D :D :D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Percy

Heya Deepwoods
 The advice given sofar is the best anywhere. I would add to not get discouraged if the mill doesnt cut as well as you hoped  right off. All new mills need a little tweekin and the knowledge gain during th tweekin process is invaluable. Ask alot of questions here, and share any tricks/methods you may discover with the rest of us.
Saw on dude ;D ;D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

DeepWoods

Well I did it!!  Had the saw up and running by nine am.  My Brother-in-law came over about the time I was ready to roll the first log up.  I made one final check and said "Whats the worse that can happen?"  Started the engine, turned on the water, and eased into the first slab.  Guess I was pushing to hard, as the blade came to a stop.  OOOPS!!!  Tried it again, and the first slab came off the mill.  

Jeff, I had already been given the advice to save the first board sawed from Mrs. DeepWoods.  It will be used to make a sign to put up at the Cabin.  My Brother-in-law will get some of it to make some cabinets for his shop, and the rest I  will find a special project for it once it is dry.  

I had previously scaled the logs at about 140 bd/ft, and when we were done, I had 165 bd/ft of some real nice 11 inch wide boards, and a small stack of 6 inch wide ones.  So far,with the cost of the mill,  I figure my price per board foot is at $39.00 per bd/ft.   I guess I will have to keep cutting to get the cost down.  

I had only one misshap, I was about half way thru a cut and the blade started to take a dive.  By the time I saw it happen, it had gone about a half inch deeper than it should have.  I stopped and backed out of the cut and noticed that the blade had a very thick layer of pitch on the top side.  I scraped it off, and then turned the cant end for end and sawed the board off.  Would I be correct in saying I was not using enough water?  

I did have a guy that was walking by ask me about the mill, and after talking for a while, he said he had a friend that had some oak logs that he was looking for someone to cut.  He said he would come back tomorrow and get more details.  So I might have my first paying job real soon!!!!  If I cut his oak, would 50% of the lumber be a good trade for my time?

All in all I had about four hours actual time working and 1.8 hours of cutting time on the meter,  I would like to thank all of you on this forum for your advice and ideas.  I am glad I have ventured into something that is rewarding and fun to do.  

Thanks
DeepWoods

I will post some pics, but have to resize them first.
Norwood LM2000 with 23 HP Briggs and 21 foot track, Hand Built Logging Arch, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and Setter. 48" Xtreme Duty Logrite Cant Hook.

Fla._Deadheader

Deepwoods, I was gettin concerned about ya. Glad ya had a fun day. Sawin is great, EH ???

  About the sap build up. Read the thread "Blade Scrapers" and proceed from there.

 Ya didn't hafta turn the cant end for end. Next time, just EEEase back into the cut and finish it. Then drop down to get a clean face. You only lose the thin board, because you straighten out the first one by going back in.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Kevin

DW;
Next time you square a cant measure it from corner to corner to see if it's square.


VA-Sawyer

Deepwoods,
I had the same problem with buildup. The tech at Woodmizer suggested that I add some DAWN dishsoap to the water.  I use about 1 oz per gal of water. Seems to help with the sap.

Rick
VA-Sawyer

VA-Sawyer

More........
Mark M. gave some good advice about breaking in the engine. Truth is that sawing narrow to medium size stuff is about the best thing you can do as a breakin. Full speed with light to medium load for a short time then let it idle for a minute or two then rev it back up. I would avoid max loads ( real wide cuts ) for about 10 hrs or so.  
I also like to make the first oil change early. I normally do it around the 4 or 5 hour mark. Drain it while it is still hot and has the metal grindings in suspension. Don't bother changing the oil filter ( if you have one ) till the next oil change. Any metal filings in the filter will be on the surface of the media and won't affect filter performance.  I write the date and hourmeter reading on the filter with one of those pernanent markers every time I put one on. That way it is easy to check how many hours since the last oil and filter change. I do this with the plane, tractor, cars, truck, sawmill and boat. Just write it where you can see it on the filter when it is installed.

Rick
VA-Sawyer

Fla._Deadheader

Just re-read the post about Deepwoods sawin. He mentioned that the blade stopped ??? ??? Did the engine stall, or, just the blade stopped??? Might have to tighten the drive belts a little more. They need to be TIGHT. We use a break over lever system to raise our engine and tighten the belt. Adjustment is nearly taken up. Gotta make a longer rod for it.
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

DeepWoods

Fla._Deadheader, The engine didn't stall, but I did let up on the throttle right away and then the engine killed.  I did have some minor problems with the engine quiting right after I cleared the log and let up on the throttle.  It killed several times this way, so I came off easy on the throttle and everything was fine.  I inspected the belt tension after I was done yesterday, and found that the belt had loosened from its original setting.  Guess they stretch a little with use.  

I am hoping to get back to the cabin soon, so I can get the rest of the tree that I cut down.  Figure I have four more smaller bolts to cut up.  I will have more time to tinker with the small problems before taking the mill to the cabin where it will stay on a more permenent basis.
Norwood LM2000 with 23 HP Briggs and 21 foot track, Hand Built Logging Arch, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and Setter. 48" Xtreme Duty Logrite Cant Hook.

DeepWoods

Here are a few pictures of my adventure.
  
Found out that wet snow is no fun to skid thru,
but my winch system worked reasonably well.  
I'm glad I picked a tree next to the road.

Used my ATV to get the logs out of the trailer,
and then put the winch back on the mill and started my first cuts

Ended up with 165 bd/ft of some nice 11 inch wide and 6 inch wide boards

Norwood LM2000 with 23 HP Briggs and 21 foot track, Hand Built Logging Arch, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and Setter. 48" Xtreme Duty Logrite Cant Hook.

Fla._Deadheader

YEP, you're screwed. :D :D :D :D  Got sawdust in yer system. :D :D :D :D

  We don't idle the engine OR stop the blade after each cut, I WILL idle and disengage the blade when we finish a log and need to load another. Just seems like a waste of effort and time??? At $18.00 a blade, I can't see how it pays. I would rather be sawing. Course, our mill is pretty well automated. Manual mill, I might consider idling.

 Nice pics. Is that Red Oak ??? One on the carriage looks like Pine ???   Could I ask why ya got the mill jacked up off the drive so high ???
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

DeepWoods

Fla._Deadheader,  Yes it is pine.  I put the jack stands on the mill so I don't have to bend over so far to pull the boards off. Thought this would be easier on my back muscles.   I will try it on the ground once to see which way seems better for me.  The way the Norwood is designed, it is suppose to idle down before returning for the next cut.  The blade might come off the guide rollers if it is still spinning.  I guess I could raise the blade and then return to make the next cut, but the throttle is spring loaded and will idle down if I let go to raise the blade.
Norwood LM2000 with 23 HP Briggs and 21 foot track, Hand Built Logging Arch, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener and Setter. 48" Xtreme Duty Logrite Cant Hook.

Minnesota_boy

After your engine has broke in, it may not die as easily when you throttle back.  If necessary, I'd increase the idle speed just a bit until then, as that may help too.

I always idle the engine as I bring the head back and set up fo the next cut.  I hate to listen to the engine racing any longer than I have to.  It really seems a waste to me to have the engine running full speed as I bring the head back from the end of a 30 foot log.  ;D
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Thank You Sponsors!