my logs too big to move

[opticsguy]

Dropped a tree much earlier this year and now need to move them to my mill, only about 200 feet in distance.  These are in the woods, and although I can drag them, the last one hundred feet is across my lawn.  Too heavy to lift 16' and 18' logs with my tractor.   So have any of you resorted to splitting logs prior to hauling to your mill?   Logs are about 24-29" diameter.  My chainsaw has a 20" bar.  So is it possible for me to split this with my chainsaw and then move?  Would it be worth purchasing a chainsaw blade for ripping?  Thoughts and comments please.

PS, no time to design and build a log carrier. Gotta beat the rains and not chew up my lawn.

[dgdrls]

Your neighbors have bigger tractors?

You could split the logs, but with 20" bar and 16' to 18' logs you will be cutting for a good while and burning lots of fuel.

DGDrls

[Tom the Sawyer]

If you have a TK 1220 could you take the mill to the logs?  Might not be your first choice but even a temporary setup could save a lot of damage to your yard.

[redbeard]

If they won't roll you could use some small diameter logs and move them like the ancestor's did. Had to do that once over a septic field. Its very handy having a 28" or 32" chainsaw for quartering the big ones. Not looking forward to the wet rainy season that's coming soon either.

[5quarter]

do you need them that long? if not, you can cut them in half. If you have a bucket on your tractor, you can roll them to the mill. If push comes to shove, you can always get them pointed toward the mill, then lay 4 6' round posts, equally spaced at a right angle to the log and roll the log on top of them. chain the end of the log to your tractor and it should roll nicely. you will need a second person to leap frog the posts about every 4' as you are pulling. time consuming, but it will leave the lawn intact and get logs to mill with what you currently have available.

[Brad_S.]

Very hard to rip a log freehand without loosing a LOT of lumber due to crooked cuts. I would consider ripping a log only if I had a way to keep the cut flat and true like an alaskan style mill, but then you would need a longer bar. Even though the rip may not look bad to the eye, you will be surprised at how far off it is once you get it on the mill. Been there, done that.

[schmism]

they make and inexpensive version that you can run blind tip with nothing but a 2x ontop as a straight edge

OFFSITE IMAGES NOT ALLOWED PLEASE READ FORUM RULES

but im in the camp of calling in a favor for a larger tractor or cutting down to 8-9' logs

[customsawyer]

Does your mill have the trailer package? I have split many big logs with a chain saw with very little waste but I have had lots of practice. ;)

[jdonovan]

sounds like a perfect job for a log arch.

[Nomad]

     A big enough logging arch would work, but might still drag the butt end.  But you don't have one, so not an option.
     As said, unless you need lumber that long I'd cut to lengths you can handle.  That would be easiest.  Otherwise turn them sideways and roll them.  It doesn't take long for a few guys with peaveys to roll a log quite a ways.

[bama20a]

No help on moving the logs,But I'd like to know where Schmism,Got the clamp from ;D,Looks like it would come in handy.

[DR Buck]

Sounds to me like all possible solutions are not workable for you.    Look like you should get out a shovel and rake and buy a bag of grass seed.   :D

[YellowHammer]

You really only have to lift up one end of the log at a time, not the whole log to get it to your mill.  You should be able to do that with your 3 point hitch on your tractor, and it generally has a higher weight capacity than your loader hydraulics. Then the only thing dragging wil be the last few feet of the other end of the log.  You can put something under that, either wheels or a makeshift skidding sled. It doesn't have to be fancy, anything handy will work for the short distance.

Do you have any sort of trailer? Any sort of wheels? You don't need a log arch, but anything with wheels, such as an old car axle or trailer axle from the junk yard will work.  A utility trailer, old boat trailer, etc. Lift up one end of the log, and slide it under, just that end.

Go to the other side and use the three point on the tractor to lift the other end, to get the entire log off the ground, and drive off.

Good luck
YH

[j napier]

we took a cherry picker and made a log arch out of it work's good. lol just some south east ky. hillbilly thing..but it works..

[sawdusty1]

If you have a box blade roll it with that using your lift in conjunction with pushing it.  Push on each end to steer it.

[opticsguy]

Thanks for every ones suggestions.  i am dragging these out of the woods and onto the lawn and then 100 feet to the saw.  Mill does not move and really dont want to re-landscape.  cutting the logs shorter eliminate the 16 and 18' boards i need. i normally use my 3-point home made forklift to move logs but these are too heavy.  the biggest difficulty seems to be getting the logs out onto the lawn without great damage, then i could roll em to the log staging area.

Making a log arch is an option but running out of time.    Seems the best idea is to find smaller trees in the lengths i need.

Ok. got more thinking to do, thanks everyone.

[Qweaver]

I welded grab hooks on short chains to my loader arms as far back as I could and still clear the front of the tractor.  This almost trippled my lifting capacity.  But care must be used as this is seriously over loading the front tires!    I only do this to load really heavy logs onto the Peterson and on level ground.

[schmism]

No help on moving the logs,But I'd like to know where Schmism,Got the clamp from ;D,Looks like it would come in handy.

My "mill" is a "real" Alaskan sawmill,  but what i posted was a variant of what is called "the beam machine"  google it.  you can find it at various retailers,  I dont know if any of the forum sponsors carry it. 

for those of you who have band mills and may never have "milled" with a chain saw.  save your self the time and get a ripping chain on the front end.

[Keystone31]

My next investment is actually an Alaska Mill. I already have Spruce butts over 30" dropped off at least a year ago. At 8', there's no cutting them shorter and the Kubota L3800 just won't get the job done.

[barbender]

I think Redbeard has the only viable option that fits the narrow parameters you laid out- you need to move big, long logs across your lawn without tearing it up. Take 4' long and say 8-10" diameter logs, they should be smooth and straight, and use them for rollers.

[Andy B.]

I like the idea of using smaller logs laid out to roll the big log across.  I have moved lots of heavy equipment that way.
If you don't have a lot of small logs laying around to use as rollers, then Yellow Hammer had a great idea.  Get a sheet of plywood or thick sheet of plastic and put one end of the log on it.  You may have to figure out a way to hold the front edge of the plywood/plastic to the log.  Then lift the other end of the log with your 3-point and pull it that way.  I have also used a similar method as this to move large heavy things.  Well, in my case we used an old car hood.  If you have an old car hood laying around it would work great!  Your wife might not appreciate you using the hood from her car.  :D

Andy B.

[maple flats]

What are these logs? I now use my excavator, but in the past I used a 25 HP 4x4 Ford tractor/FEL to move some rather heavy logs. On the heaviest one I hooked chains around the cross members back a little ways from the bucket pins. Being closer to the tractor almost doubled what I could lift off the bucket. Make sure you have lots of weight on the 3 pt hitch, and go real slow. Don't try it when you've had rain in the last few days for less damage to the lawn. My Ford had a grill guard and a cross member almost 2' behind the bucket. When I lifted a heavy log it lightly rode the grill guard.

[NCDiesel]

I think Redbeard has the only viable option that fits the narrow parameters you laid out- you need to move big, long logs across your lawn without tearing it up. Take 4' long and say 8-10" diameter logs, they should be smooth and straight, and use them for rollers.

X3

I hate carrying firewood so I have done this a bunch of time to bring the logs closer to the truck.   Here are some notes to save wear and tear on the log, lawn and psyche:

1 - I double end the chain so I am closer to pulling from the axis of the log.  By this I mean I wrap both ends of the chain on the log and pull from the middle of the chain(plow clevis helps here).   Just wrapping one end and pulling offset from one side makes the log want to dive and swerve.
2 - Don't be cheap with the smaller roller logs.   Cut a bunch of them and make them as long as viable.  I think the 4' suggestion is good. 
3 - Pull from the hitch of the tractor, but have a boom pole attached in case you need to lift the front to assist getting a roller underneath.
4 - Rougher the ground, the bigger the rollers need to be. 
5 - Knots and branch nubs make it harder so pick a flat side(next suggestion helps you stay on the flat side too).
6 - Having two people helping to move rollers from back to front is much better than one.


Good luck and be careful!

[opticsguy]

My final results:

After moving the 16' long by 25" diameter log using rollers and pushing and rolling, I have decided these logs are too big.  Trying to get this log loaded up properly and safely onto the mill is gonna take some planning.  Too heavy for my 1300# three point lift.  Also, after pushing and pulling and rolling and pushing more, I think less damage to my lawn to have simply dragged the log. 

So, will cut the other logs which are even larger, to shorter lengths for other projects and find some smaller diameter trees/logs for the 18 footers i need.

Thanks everyone.

[beenthere]

opticsguy
We really do need some pics. ;)

[Al_Smith]

It would be a simple matter to side haul them onto a utility trailer if you can borrow one or own one .

[C. D. Nicolas]

OK, first try at posting, but maybe I can be of help.  For years I've delivered home security safes, read gun safes, using  PVC pipe. It's cheap, available, light and handy. Two pieces and you can move a 1900 lb safe. Get 4 or 5 inch or as big as local store has on hand.  If 3 point hitch will lift one end, it wont take any time at all. cut pipe to 3-4 ft length and pipe roll your logs.  The gophers in the lawn may have some proplems with this but they will just have to get over it.

[Al_Smith]

It would take a lot of cribbing and probabley steel pipe to move a log .Although I did move an 1800 pound Bridgeport milling machine across a concrete floor on 2" PVC pipe rollers .

[beenthere]

OK, first try at posting, but maybe I can be of help

C.D.
Welcome to the Forestry Forum. That method should work well for going across the lawn.
It is one I use when I have to move an upright piano across the carpet.

Hope to hear more from you.

[thecfarm]

C. D. Nicolas,welcome to the forum. What's your interest with wood?

[LeeB]

A 2" pvc pipe will have a greater crush resistance than a larger diameter, but less rolling efficiency.

[Al_Smith]

Yeah PVC is strong but it would be better if it were schedual 80 instead of schedual 40 .

Now you gotta remember with a log the thing is round not flat .Therefore it would put a crush point on the plastic .Also if it isn't cribbed up right it would bend like a  noodle .

With a steel pipe say 3" you could probabley scoot a 6000 pound log without bending it provided you laid down a solid bed of cribbing .

Lawdy it would take a day of moving 2 by 12 cribbing planks and pipe rollers to move that log 100 feet .If you had to buy the planks and the pipe you'd have more money in it than the log is worth .

[just_sawing]

I honestly think you are over thinking this. Lift the rear end off the ground put something under it. (Three point lift will get it a little. Now that you have a fulcrum not at the very end you have effectively shorten the log when you life the other end. Now lift the other end. The amount that you have from your fulcrum on the back side has lightened what you lift now. Now place another fulcrum on the front end, When you have the rear end high enough place any type of trailer under the log and chain. Lift the front end with the lift and go

[drobertson]

Lots of good ideas,  I have used short pine logs in the past,  those are some big heavy ones for sure, 200 ft don't seem that far, but will be a chore for sure,   hope it all goes well for you,    david

[Magicman]

You don't need to use pipe to roll it across the lawn.  The log is round.  100' of rope and you can cross haul (par buckle) it anywhere.  I easily rolled 36"+ logs hundreds of feet after Hurricane Katrina, and we did not skin up any lawns.

[5quarter]

I think Redbeard has the only viable option...

Perhaps Redbeard and 5quarter...he only beat me by 4 min... ;) :D

MM...sounds easy when it isn't.  first he'll need a double line on his logs to keep them rolling straight and he will also need to tie off the bottom line to something stationary that is in line with the mill. Also, braking is dangerous on even a slight downhill grade. It can be done and I have done it several times, but its a real pain.
Here's another tried and true way to do it. Roll your log onto a couple 8-10' 4x4s like it's your log deck. put another set of 4x4s ahead of them with a wedge stop at the end. 2 people (maybe even one) will be able to roll the log along your makeshift deck much easier than if its on the ground. just leapfrog your 4x4s til your at the mill. maybe 20-30 min per log. use wedge stops to brake or hold your log while readjusting the 4xs.

[drobertson]

Par buckling is not a bad idea, just moving the longer section would be a chore, the shorter sections can be moved in position with less effort.  as said lots of good ideas here, a very doable task, just a task for sure,
david

[Magicman]

MM...sounds easy when it isn't.

I have moved too many very large logs with a 5/8" nylon rope.  Yes, you need an anchor point, but not a double line.  Just move the rope to the side that is falling behind.  It's funny to watch the customer's face when you roll a log up to the sawmill that his tractor would not budge.

[drobertson]

Par buckling is so easy, only thing needed is rails and a hands to correct the  direction of the log.  Along with allot of re-adjusting the chain, or rope, real simple, they role like a baby!  18 footers would still be a chore,  keep the roller bed well inside the flare of the log.       David

[haywire woodlot]

A variation of par buckling was the order of the day to move this 29" by 16' log to the mill. The 5/8" poly rope was wrapped half a dozen times led through a snatch block to a gentle pull from a truck. The log rolled about 40' in two pulls right into the loader.

[5quarter]

MM...A double line eliminates nearly all the "adjusting" involved. Especially useful when you are having to roll the log 100+'. As I said, a single line pull is possible, but a real pain. A double line is no more difficult to set up than a single...just need more rope. It is also safer. Many sawmilling accidents are actually log handling accidents. A double line provides much more control over the log, whether going up a ramp, loading on a mill or rolling along the back 9.  ;)

[Magicman]

I understand and would never use a single line for loading, but the big ones on the ground pose no danger and do not tend to turn anyway,  Most adjustments are because the butt end goes faster than the small end.   ;D

[LeeB]

When you do get ready to make an adjustment, roll it up on a small log pointed in the direction you want to turn. Try to get it centered in the log for balance and spinning it is easy.

[5quarter]

I need my butt end to go a little faster now and then :D :D

No real danger if you're working solo or if you're the one in the truck doing the pulling. The danger comes in when you have a second guy walking the log while you're pulling. I have seen one accident and have been party to another in just that situation. needless to say no one should be near that log while its in motion. I just don't want the OP to take any unnecessary risks, esp. if he recruits his neighbor, for example. log handling can be a dangerous activity, especially if you have little or no experience.

[Philngruvy]

I think Redbeard has the only viable option that fits the narrow parameters you laid out- you need to move big, long logs across your lawn without tearing it up. Take 4' long and say 8-10" diameter logs, they should be smooth and straight, and use them for rollers.

Get 3 sheets of plywood to lay down on the lawn.  Roll the logs across the plywood moving the last sheet to the front when it is clear of the roller logs.  This will make rolling much easier and virtually no damage to lawn.

[LeeB]

Plywood is pretty pricey these days. 

[Philngruvy]

Price is all relative.  Another alternate would be using pairs of 1X or 2X lumber that was cut on the mill. But really, the parbuckling seems like the best solution.

[terrifictimbersllc]

MM...A double line eliminates nearly all the "adjusting" involved. Especially useful when you are having to roll the log 100+'. As I said, a single line pull is possible, but a real pain. A double line is no more difficult to set up than a single...just need more rope. It is also safer. Many sawmilling accidents are actually log handling accidents. A double line provides much more control over the log, whether going up a ramp, loading on a mill or rolling along the back 9.  ;)

How does one pull in a double line? Seems like redirecting would take 2 pulleys and another to pull on the loop.  My capstan winch won't take in 2 lines at once.

[jdonovan]

How does one pull in a double line? Seems like redirecting would take 2 pulleys and another to pull on the loop.  My capstan winch won't take in 2 lines at once.

Anchor the line to a solid object, then run the line to the pulley which is attached to the thing you want to move, and then run the line to the winch/pulling device.

In a perfect world you have the 1st anchor on the same place you have the winch attached so the angle between the lines is 0 degrees. As you get more angle between the points you get less force on the object you are trying to move.

If you need to do redirection and double pulls, then you can use a lot more anchors & pulleys.

[clww]

Anchor the line to a solid object, then run the line to the pulley which is attached to the thing you want to move, and then run the line to the winch/pulling device.

In a perfect world you have the 1st anchor on the same place you have the winch attached so the angle between the lines is 0 degrees. As you get more angle between the points you get less force on the object you are trying to move.

If you need to do redirection and double pulls, then you can use a lot more anchors & pulleys.



I've used that method before to move some heavy logs. Just used several snatch blocks and a LONG section of wire rope.

[terrifictimbersllc]

I understand this method.  I thought it was being suggested above to run the center of the line, in a vee shape, underneath the log and pull back on that.  2 legs of the rope underneath and 2 above, to have the log rolling without changing direction, in the manner which Magicman parbuckles logs onto his trailer with a chain.  I don't understand how to do this with a couple of hundred feet of rope, from the standpoint of pulling on two ropes at once.