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block heaters

Started by thecfarm, January 01, 2018, 03:47:11 PM

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thecfarm

The only time we have seen double digits is with a minus sign.
Those block heaters sure are nice. Mighty nice. My tractor will fire right up. This tractor has the fuel tank behind the seat. My other one had it front of the steering wheel,kinda over the engine. I use to throw an old piece of carpet on the hood to keep the fuel warm. I use it every few days to bring wood up to the house. I still let it idle for a while. I can hear the hyds whine on it,until it gets warm.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

goose63

Ray I have a small tank heater on my little trackter that  I keep in a shed and at 20 below that thing will fire up like it's summer
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

47sawdust

Yeah Ray a block heater is a wonderful thing.So are warm hydraulics.I like to give my Kubota a little time before we head out.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

moodnacreek

Electric block heaters should be rigged up with timers.  Besides saving electric costs, keeping an engine warm for long periods [with no use]  increases corrosion.

thecfarm

My tractor don't sit too long. Maybe 48 hours at the most. I will unplug it at times. Just to save on the electric bill. That poor tractor does not get much of a rest.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

gspren

  My 2355JD has a block heater but it doesn't get plugged in very often, because I avoid work when it's that cold. On those occasions where I need to start it in the teens or colder I plug it in for about an hour and she fires right up. So far my Kubota has always started without one.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

Woodcutter_Mo

 I have a magnetic heater I use occasionally on my truck since the block heater it has doesn't work and on the tractor as well. I stick it on the bottom of the oil pan for a couple hours before I plan to start the engine. It makes it easier on the starter and battery in really cold weather. I'm sure it doesn't work as well as the internal block heater but helps alot.
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

Dave Shepard

Some of our heaters are on timed outlets, others get plugged in before chores. My Kubota is a hydro, so I let it warm up after it starts, but it sure is nice to just crank it over once and have it running.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

thecfarm

I had an old subaru. That thing would not start in the singles numbers. I put a halogen light under the hood and covered the hood with an old blanket and it would start like it was 30°.
My FIL says it cost too much to run them block heaters. So he would rather start it cold and save a dollar.  ::)
I feel any heats helps out some,if you can.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Dave Shepard

I think cold starts, especially below 10 F, are really hard on an engine. Even a 1500 watt  heater only costs 20 cents an hour, at least on my residential meter.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

starmac

We keep block and oil heaters on them, it is not uncommon during cold spells for someone to start their rig and toast an engine because the oil is too cold to pump with just a block heater. I have one heater that just has an oil heater on the oil pan and one on the tranny too, no block heater, it will start easy enough at 20 below, but I usually don't use it once it gets that cold.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Brian_Rhoad

Here is a Thermostatically Controlled Outlet that would work for a heater. I use one on a heat lamp.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/farm-innovators-thermostatically-controlled-outlet?cm_vc=-10005

Ed

Even though my diesel truck is in a heated shop, when its this DanG cold I'll plug the block heater in for a couple hours before I go plow.

Cuts the warm up time down.

Ed

barbender

Quote from: moodnacreek on January 01, 2018, 07:19:01 PM
Electric block heaters should be rigged up with timers.  Besides saving electric costs, keeping an engine warm for long periods [with no use]  increases corrosion.

Would you elaborate on the corrosion issue?
Too many irons in the fire

starmac

Ed, I keep my truck in a heated shop, so that there is basically no warm up time, I crank it and back out, rear ends tranny everything is sitting at 60 degrees, so she is ready to roll out.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

Peter Drouin

I have them on the John Deere and cat. Put them on a timer for a 3hr heat up before I turn the key.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

chevytaHOE5674

Block heater and battery tender trickle charger are plugged in all the time on my tractor that I feed cattle with, other equipment gets plugged in as needed.

Chuck White

I have a battery tender hooked up to my little JD-1023E all through the Winter and I have a block heater on order for it now, should be here before the weekend!

This cold snap has been brutal and the heater will be a blessing!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

bodagocreek2

Have a block heater on my 20 year old Kubota 2900 that's never been used. No electricity. When glow plug light goes off starts the same winter or summer. Let it idle for 20 minutes or so for hydraulics to loosen up.

PA_Walnut

I got a block heater for my Kubota even though it fires right up regardless of the temp. However, with single-digit temps, I think it's easier on everything to be a little warmer at startup.
However, of course, installation would seemingly (should) be straight forward and easy...no deal.  :-\ :-[
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
LT40HD Wide 35HP Diesel
Peterson Dedicated Wide Slabber
Kubota M62 Tractor/Backhoe
WoodMizer KD250 Kiln
Northland 800 Kiln

chevytaHOE5674

Quote from: bodagocreek2 on January 06, 2018, 07:55:34 AM
Have a block heater on my 20 year old Kubota 2900 that's never been used. No electricity. When glow plug light goes off starts the same winter or summer. Let it idle for 20 minutes or so for hydraulics to loosen up.

Just because it will start doesn't mean that it is the best for the engine. A warmed block experiences much less wear on cold starts. Also many tractors don't have good plugs.

moosehunter

Sometimes when ordering a block heater you have choices with wattage. If you leave it plugged in all the time get a low watts model, for occasional use get the mega watt model and you won't need to wait as long for warm up.
"And the days that I keep my gratitude
Higher than my expectations
Well, I have really good days".    Ray Wylie Hubbard

Kbeitz

Quote from: moosehunter on January 06, 2018, 10:14:35 AM
Sometimes when ordering a block heater you have choices with wattage. If you leave it plugged in all the time get a low watts model, for occasional use get the mega watt model and you won't need to wait as long for warm up.

I seen up to 300 watts on E-bay... Whats a good wattage for leaveing it plugged in all the time
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

51cub

I have to second barbender's question. Please elaborate about corrosion. I have times when I'll need to leave at all hours of the night. It's easier to leave it plugged in for awhile sometimes
I believe in the hereafter, because every time I take two steps into the tool crib to get something I wonder " what did I come in here after"

If nothing else I'm always a good last resort or the guy to hold up as a bad example

John Mc

Quote from: 51cub on January 06, 2018, 03:58:22 PM
I have to second barbender's question. Please elaborate about corrosion. I have times when I'll need to leave at all hours of the night. It's easier to leave it plugged in for awhile sometimes

Here's an attempt at explaining the corrosion issue if a preheater is left operating long-term without starting the engine and getting it up to full operating temperature regularly:

I know it is a concern on air-cooled piston aircraft engines (but I'm less sure about tractor engines). The main concern there is that you can start air flowing through the engine - warm air rises, pulling in cooler air. As the air rises, it travels to cooler parts of the engine, where the moisture in the air condenses. If you leave it on continuously, you are constantly pumping in new outside air and keeping that condensation cycle going. To add to the problem, as you put hours on your tractor, by-products of combustion build up in the oil. That mix is also corrosive. As you warm it, the moisture and combustion products in the oil can evaporate out and be deposited in other parts of the engine.

The longer you leave that preheater running, the more moisture you are putting in to the system (it may not seem like there is much moisture in winter air, but there is some, and over time you are continuously adding it to the engine. Starting the engine and getting it thoroughly warmed up and keeping it at temperature for an extended periodburns the moisture off. (In my Cessna 172, I'm told to get the oil to 180˚ and keep it there for at least a half hour. I assume this can vary significantly with the type of engine and volume of oil it holds. It also may be completely different with a water cooled engine.)

One thing that helps minimize this is trying to get the whole engine warmed up - the more evenly it's warmed, the less chance of condensation inside the engine. This is one of the reasons that many aircraft preheaters have a heater on each cylinder, plus a heating pad on the oil sump. (On an air-cooled engine, those cylinders are hanging out off the main block of the engine, rather than being inside the block on most liquid-cooled engines. They also have fins designed to carry heat away - a good thing when running, a problem when preheating.) Inside storage out of the wind and/or throwing a blanket or old sleeping bag over the engine cowling on the aircraft does two things: the preheater heats it more quickly, and the heat gets more uniform - at least if you leave it connected long enough for the heat to flow out to the further parts of the engine.

As I mentioned, this is an issue on air-cooled aircraft engines. I suspect it can also be a factor on water-cooled gas and diesel engines, but someone more familiar with them will have to comment on that. The cylinders are a more integral part of the engine block, which helps heat flow to them, but on the other hand, most of these engines are heated with a single source of heat, which could lead to less uniform heating. I'm not sure whether the internal air flow concerns are the same or not.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

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