Going right through 1998 WM 40 Hydaulic.....

[linrick1]

Hello all, I have just begun to tear into a WM 40H that was used for any real amount of time somewhere back in '99/2000 and has basically sat since. I am going to go through all components on the machine and service or repair/replace as required. I would appreciate any info I can get regarding areas I should pay particular attention to or to what I should be looking for. Im also interested to hear what those familiar with this machine would recommend any updates I should make. Thanks for your time, Rick

[Jeff]

Here is the wood-Mizer 2000 hour service list below that might help, but you might want to consider letting them do it the first time. I believe they will let you take part in it so you can learn.

Information Link
http://www.woodmizer.com/us/support/plans.aspx

INSPECT/CHECK:

    * Blade Guide Rollers
    * Drive Belt Tension
    * Brake Adjustment
    * Power Feed Belt
      and Check Tension
    * Power Feed Chain Tension
    * Up/Down Belt and Check Tension
    * Up/Down Chain Tension
    * Alternator Belt Tension
    * Drum Switch and Lubricate
    * Cam Follower Bearings
    * Hydraulic Fluid Level
    * Engine Air Filter
    * Engine Fuel Filter
    * Hydraulic Hot Contact
    * Hydraulic Tensioner/
      Add Fluid If Needed
    * Motor Mount Bushings
    * Gearbox Oil
    * Exchange Gallon of Hydraulic
      Oil from Each Reservoir
    * Change Hydraulic Filter

LUBE:

    * Top Off Cylindrical Bearing with Fluid*
    * Chrome Tension Rods
    * Power Feed Chain
    * Track Oiler
    * Up/Down Chain
    * Mast
    * Blade Guide Arm
    * Blade Guide Arm Chain

FACTORY ALIGNMENT:

    * Sawhead Slide Pad
    * Blade Tracking
    * Sawhead Tilt
    * Bed Rails
    * Blade Guide Deflection
    * Blade Guide Arm
    * Blade Guide Vertical Tilt
    * Blade Guide Horizontal Tilt
    * Blade Guide Flange spacing
    * Align Side Supports
    * Clamp Stop/Stop Bolt
    * Blade Height Scale
    * Test Cut


Plus parts
# -Parts Required: (2) wheel belts
# (2) blade guide rollers
# (1) blade
# (1-2) gallons hydraulic oil
# (1) hydraulic filter
Approximately $212

[bandmiller2]

Rick,I work part time with a partner on a lt 70 last year we had the traveling WM rep stop by for a tune up.Consider the money spent as an education.If you don't have the WM manual for your machine get it,study it ,keep reading it until you understand.When the rep comes you can fast forward to the finer points and not waste time on the routine stuff.Those guys live on the road,if your his last stop most won't refuse a home cooked meal.Alignment is the big thing on a WM.Frank C.

[musikwerke]

Welcome to the club although I don't think it has very many members.  I did the same thing to a 1987 LT 30.  I took mine down to the last nut and bolt - literally - and down to bare steel.  I can't offer advice as to what is important and what's not as I replaced every bearing (even the wheel bearings) all the wiring, both drum switches and anything and everything the least bit questionable.  I also installed a new short block and every upgrade Wood-Mizer offers.  I even bought new decal sets.  It was a two year project.  Between what I paid for the mill and what I put into it in parts alone, I could have bought a new LT 28 with power feed and if I had it to do over again I probably would do just that.  The advantage however, to doing what I did and what you plan to do is; when you're done and it cuts uniform lumber, you definitely know where each adjutment bolt is and what it does.  My one suggestion since I live next to the ocean and my mill lives outside:  invest in a stainless steel horizontal drive chain.

[MartyParsons]

Your mill will have a Revision Code. Last 5 first will be a Letter. That will tell WM where you are at on the revision and if there are any saftey revisions that need to be checked. WM is pretty good about sending out the information, sometimes we find the parts in the extra box of parts near the mill. So if you have a extra box that came with the mill look. There is a maintenance check list on what should be checked at what hour level in the operator manual. This is pretty close to what to start to look for. If you need anything send me an PM or post it here. All of us will give us our best advice.
Marty

[linrick1]

Hello all, thanks for the replies, I appreciate your taking the time to help me with this. The way I see it, the best place to begin is the motor, so I've flushed the fuel system and cleaned the pump and carb - still running ratty at high idle so I think I need to replace the auto enrichment solenoid 'cause she smoothes right out with a bit of choke. As far as the mill itself most all of it looks to be in good shape, but needs a serious lube job. I spoke to a WM rep on the phone yesterday and explained what I was doing and was surprised when he sounded less than interested - didn't ask for the year or serial number and said there were no revisions or updates for our mill. Strange. I do have all the operator manuals for the mill but wonder if their are service manuals available too. Marty, I think these are the #s you are looking for - G5237 - Last numbers on the S.N. tag. Thanks again for all your help, Rick

[pineywoods]

linrick I did pretty much the same thing with a 95 LT40 manual. I bought it with over 4000 hours on the meter. Replaced the tired old 18 hp briggs witha 25 hp liquid cooled kawasaki. All new bearings, belts, and normal wear items. Even replaced a bunch of rusted out sheet metal. Added my own hydraulics and home made remote control system. Found matching spray can paint at Napa parts store. When you get done, you will have two big pluses. A first class mill, and you will know everything on it from one end to the other. The more I use and maintain my mill, the more I respect the folks at Woodmizer..
The only advice I can give is when you get it all back together and start aligning everything, be sure you have a good sharp sharp blade mounted. I just about wore out some of the tracking adjustments before I finally figured out most of the problem was the blade...

[backwoods sawyer]

When I got my half breed LT-70mill (proto type) it had lived outside and had been used and abused. The previous owner told me that woodmizer had told him that oil attracts sawdust so there had never been any oil used on the mill. I call bull pucky on that. I would rather have oily sawdust in contact with metal then water soaked sawdust creating rust. Clean and lube everything. 
Pull every bearing off it and feel how they turn, some can be taken apart, cleaned and greased, if they are a bit sticky after cleaning and greasing replace them. Remove all pins, and grease them. For some reason, woodmizer don't put grease fittings on all the pins.
Get a new set of guide rollers to go along with them new saws. It will help with the alignment.
You should plan to relevel all the bed rails, while you are at it lube all the adjustment threads on them.
Take all the chains off and soak them in a bucket of oil, if you are unable to work out all the dead links then replace them.
Start with a new battery, make sure you got good ends and that the cable do not show any signs of corrosion, if they do replace them, clean out the fuse box next to the battery box and spay it down with a corrosion inhibitor like what you would use on your battery terminals. Then seal it and all the other electrical boxes up tight. Open up the big electrical box and replace any wires and components that show signs of corrosion as well. If at all possible upgrade to the accuset 2, pull apart the control panel and do the same thing. Lube the drum switches as per the manual. The only places where you can have to much lube are around the electrical components.
For the hydraulic system, start at the ground that follows the bottom rail (light oil only here as it has to make a ground), then check the contact with the hot rail, both brass pieces should be checked for ware, pitting and glazing. Open up the hydraulic box change the oil and filter, use a wide range hydraulic oil unless you plan to change it every spring and fall. Pull the contacts apart and check for ware. If you are going to change one contact change them both, you want both motors pulling in at the same time and getting full voltage, have your alternator tested, it needs to have all of it's components working at full potential to handle the demands that the hydraulic system puts on it.
Check the trailer wiring with it hooked up to all the vehicles that you will use to tow it with.
Now you are ready to put a saw on and hand spin it to make sure the alignment is close enough to fire it up with a saw on and start the alignment process. Take your time with this part and get it right. Refer to your manual for the steps and specs.
There are several other areas that you should check over as well, like the lube mizer system, the auto clutch, the debarker, and the guide arm. I had my guide arm machined back square and put all new rollers, bearings, motor and chain on it to get it working the way it should. If you are running steel wheels, have them machined with a fresh crown at the same time.   
When you are all done and start cutting wood watch, listen, and feel for anything that is not quite right. You may want to memorize your customer number and put both your local and the Indianapolis woodmizer number in your phone as you will need to order parts, and they will answer questions. Keep your manuals handy.
I wash my mill down and lube it after every use and my maintenance cost have stayed low after spending a considerable amount to get it back to factory specs. 

[linrick1]

Wow, I've been involved in quite a few different forums over the years and Forestry Forum has been the most friendly and informative ........by far. Thanks to all of you I am not going at this blind, I now have a ton of really good information, Today I spent quite a few hours cleaning the upper and lower guide rails and the ways on the mast...I soaked a rag in ATF and wiped down everything I had cleaned up, good or bad idea? What are your reccomendations for oil in these situations? Thanks again, Rick

[Tom]

I can't think of anything, other than belts, that ATF will hurt.  I used to keep an engineer's sqirt can full of it handy and soak the mast, the chains, the rails(when I finished), and a temporary lube for any moving part until I could get the grease gun out.  I didn't bother with a rag, just squirted it wet. 

If you keep it too wet, it makes sawdust mud.  But, keeping it damp just makes it better.

[Dave Shepard]

ATF is the proper lube for the mast and rails. There is a cover over the upper rail, between the mast posts. It has a felt liner that should have the sawdust scraped off and saturated with ATF. ATF is a great product. I also lube the drive chain with ATF.

[MartyParsons]

The Red operator manual has the  safety operation and maintenance all in one book. I think it was also a tan color back a few years. There should also be a parts book with illistrations on how things should go togther. Each option for engine, Debarker, Lube Mizer etc all should have a seperate book with safety, operation and maintenance.
We use ATF it has detergent and the saw dust does not stick to it. We had a LT40Super come in this morning and I put bushings in the clamp slids I dont think it was ever lubed, it was binding when the clamp went down.  Customer said the hydraulic pump was bad ? The grease fitting are all pressed in the mill during manufacturing. I keep a 7/32 drill and a 1/4 20 tap in the box and replace the ones that woulnt take grease or are broken off. The pins should be lubed with ATF.
The only safety revision is the up down coupler and the saw dust chute fingers these keep a broken band from coming out. The Up down coupler is now one piece if it is a two piece it should be replaced. I think all of these have been found WM was pretty agressive at getting customers to replace them.
Manauls are available if you need them for any mills even for the first ones made. There are other retrofits but they are not safety related. The list is long. If WM comes up with an improvement most times it works on older revisions. Like the High performance blade guide rollers guides and the idle side bearing getting repllaced with a larger bearing at G6 revision.
M

[bandmiller2]

Rick,probibly no reason to go hog wild replacing things clean things up and try it ,the parts are expensive,but are durable and last for a long time.Spend time on the engine and rubber parts.Frank C.

[linrick1]

Hello all, just finished getting the motor to run wide open without needing about 1/4 choke on.......I hate the emissions carbs - can't adjust squat! With the motor issues resolved I moved on to the setworks and, from what I can determine, I need to replace the encoder on the mast. Any idea how much this might cost me? Thanks, Rick

[MartyParsons]

Encoder Kit 016090  $ 434.97 with cable
Yellow cable 024738 after 11/00 is replaceable it would be $ 69.73
Are you sure the encoder is bad. ?
If you push the Up arrow and then # 2 and then  # 3 you will get some Pid values you should get a Dif changing when the encoder is spun. The last one we repaired the black plugs on the curcit board were loose. Take each one out and then tighten the screws to verify the connection is good.
Hope this helps!
Marty

[linrick1]

Thanks Marty, when the setworks are in manual, I do not get the  + sign in the four corners of the display when I elevate the sawhead, nor do I get the - when I lower the head. According to the Simple Setworks Rev. J.00 op. manual the only way to fix this is to replace the encoder. Should I remove the encoder so I can turn the sprocket by hand or leave it in place and run the head with the switch while I push the buttons you stated? I am unfamiliar with Pid values so I am guessing that I am looking for would be numbers varying up and down.....? Thanks for taking the time to help me out with this, I was hoping that there would be something more I could do than just swap out parts....especially at $434.97 a whack,
Rick

[MartyParsons]

inspect the cable, of course make sure the encoder is contacting the chain and the spring is pushing it toward the chain. I am sure you checked this. Check the cable for kinks and cuts. Check the connection where it goes in to the setworks box. remove the setworks on a walk mill or look into the big box on a remote mill. do all of the connections look  good? What about the battery connections, ground. If you get someone to turn the encoder while you do a wiggle test have someone keep checking for + - on the screen or go into the pid screen and look at the diff # they should change.
Up down chain tension will effect the accuracy of the setworks not operation but should be checked and cleaned from time to time.
M
I have heard of repairing the cable but you need some experience, very very fine wires in the cable.

[LeeB]

How accurate is it supposed to be? Mine gets off by as much as 1/8" after several drops. Not always but sometimes.

[linrick1]

Thanks again Marty, I did pretty much all that you suggested to do today, except  for the wiggle test... I'll try and get some help tomorrow to try that. I was wondering if I could remove the case of the encoder to get at both ends of the cable and check continuity of each wire? What might cause the encoder to stop working - it was working when last used. I got to the calibration screen and had the following values: Ki 1, Kp 4, Kd 150, and DIFF 192. I could adjust like I should but did not notice the diff value changing while turning encoder...Im hoping its just the cable, thanks again, Rick

[MartyParsons]

When the encoder is working the Diff will change as the encoder spins. I am not sure about the continunity. I keep an encoder in the truck and just plug it in and give it a spin. If the diff changes or the + - come up I replace it. The black plugs that have all the screws on them are a common issue with the setworks. Most common is the connections get bad. I have a wire harness I plug and by pass the wiring on remote mills.
M

[linrick1]

Thanks Marty, I'll check the connections at the black plugs again, and I'll try to test the wiring in the cable, we'll see what happens. Thanks again for your help, Rick