how to sharpen circular blade

[Farmer_17]

https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/29240/IMG_4618%7E1.JPG
could not photo to up load so here is link.
Is there a tool to remove the teeth so they can be sent to someone or do you take the hole blade.
Does anybody know where i could get it sharpen i am in northern California.
Thanks
Farmer

[Ron Wenrich]

You sharpen the saw right on the way it sits.  There are 2 methods.  Either do it by hand or do it with a grinder. 

I use a 10" mill bastard file to sharpen the saw.  You want to keep your teeth straight.  If you get any angle on them, your saw will lead in that direction.  I use this method the most.  With practice, you can get sharper than with a grinder.

You can invest in a grinder.  They can be a little costly if you don't do a whole lot of sawing.  I have a Jockey grinder, and they run close to $500 new.  They grind all the teeth in the same angle, so there is a more consistent sharpening.  There are other ones on the market. 

I think Bandmiller knows more about the Dexter saw file guide.  I have one, and you need a diamond file to use in them.  Makes a saw cut great.  Lower cost.  I think they're still being made.

You need an insert tool to get the teeth out.  You will eventually do that when you want to change your teeth.  A saw doc can fix you up with the needed tool. 

[Farmer_17]

Thank you very much Ron, enjoy your day ....farmer

[ArborJake]

 Farmer I too am new to this and bought a hand grinder from meadow mills. The Andrus hand filer. It was like 300.00. Seems to work really well. I dont know how to post a link but they are online.

[Farmer_17]

Farmer I too am new to this and bought a hand grinder from meadow mills. The Andrus hand filer. It was like 300.00. Seems to work really well. I dont know how to post a link but they are online.

Thanks I  will google them.......farmer

[snowshoveler]

Well because I shot my mouth off yesterday...I just had to see if I could file the teeth with the blade on the right way.
Lesson learned, No problem at all. might have taken 5 minutes...no need for me to flip the blade.
I guess I was a bit nervous of it.
Then again I only have a 38 inch blade and it wasn't too dull to start with.
That me be a good thing to file a bit every few hours of sawing, makes for an easier job.
I have a 48 inch blade as a spare and it needs a few teeth as they are mismached. I might just get a box of new ones and shine it up too.
Regards Chris

[bandmiller2]

The two big dangers in free hand fileing are not fileing straight across and just hitting the tips and blunting the bit.You want to file the whole face of the bit same angle as new, straight across,easier said than done.Remember the Jockey needs electric,and the crank type need expensive round file discs.With the Dexter tool you can use a regular file or diamond grit file,it mearly guides the file between two sets of rollers,keeping you straight and at the right angle. Frank C.

[b dukes]

Frank,

          Do you have the contact info for the guy with the Dexter file guide , as I remember he is close to you , right?

[bandmiller2]

Brady,you want to call Bruce at Sawmill Tool&Service Co. 1-802-626-9027 for the Dexter saw guide.Its  high stregnth cast aluminum with a handle you place it on the saw and run a file between two sets of rollers,its adjustable for about any configuration.Theres an optional diamond grit file that will sharpen carbide bits or put a real smooth finish on steel bits.Don't know the current price probibly between $200 and $300. Frank C.

[apm]

If you're using the Andrus sharpener from Meadows with blue tip bits, the replacement rotary file segments are only $16.00, I think. They only get expensive if you're using chrome bits and have to get the diamond segments.

Greg

[snowshoveler]

After I filed the saw I cut a couple hundred feet of red pine.
No problems so far but i should file out the shanks a bit.
They are rounded over a tiny bit.
Only problem I have now is the belt will slip a bit in a heavy cut if I run full speed ahead.
I put a new canvas belt on and perhaps that is the problem.
Regards Chris

[steamsawyer]

Hey snowshoveler,

You want to be carefull about squareing up those rounded edges. The shank is part of the blade tension and if you change the spring tension in the shank it will effect the tension in the saw. If you try it I would sugest a file and not a dremel or grinder, that way you won't heat the shank.

The effect of the rounded edges is that it will allow the fine sawdust to escape from the gullet and pack around the shank, this will make the plate heat at the rim and dodge in the cut.

If you have enough power you might be able to feed a little faster and make bigger chips. I have lots of power but I only have an 8" belt. I use cane syrup for belt dressing. I know it sounds like that would only make the belt slip more but if you try it you will be supprized. After a few minuites of running it gets real sticky and you can't hardly make it slip. The first time I saw it used I thought the guy was nut. :

[captain_crunch]

We used to use coal dust or Fuller's Earth (a polishing compound) on belts and frictions seems like we got fullers at drug store been a ways back. What I use on my chrome tips is an Andrus sharpner with a high speed cutoff disc rather than the file piece thingie hard bits laugh at files

[snowshoveler]

Hi Captain...
I would use the hand file if I do anything to the shanks. The edge is just barley rounded so maybe they aren't to bad. I will compare to a new one.
So far I have lots of power. With the blade buried the engine dosent even squeek. I will try the syrup if I can find some.
Chris   

[dail_h]

Got the Dexter guide,,love it,,never was very good at filing. Purchased in Dec,$229.00, comes with 10 inch file n handle ;D ;D

[captain_crunch]

Snowshovler
Chris if there is not sawdust packed between sawn board and cant when board comes loose and saw is throwing more sawdust out back side than front would not sweat it
Brian

[Woodchuck53]

Who needs Louisiana Cane syrup? Eggs, grits and bisquits, a little home made sausage. Whew time to go eat. Stay safe.

[snowshoveler]

The sawdust goes pretty much straight down off the blade. No problem I don't think.
The belt will slip if take a heavy cut.
Motor is awesome so far, hardly uses any fuel.
I think 2 litres an hour under load.
Once I get the belt issue sorted out I will fix up my scale board and perhaps a cheat stick.
Regards Chris
 

[captain_crunch]

Chris
Make sure you include an eye bolt on carrage end to fine tune reader board. only thing I have found that works fer string on it is the New Zealand electric polly fenceimg string that stainless wire in it is flexable and Tough Tried cable too stiff and 100 pound cloth fishing line very short lived
Mine is set backwards as reads distance between knee and cant side of saw. Belive they are suspost to read to board side of blade to read corect But with cheat wheel I use board to tell me how much cant I got left to know when to flip cant Just remember to make cheat wheel easy to adjust because sooner or later you will forget to move it back and go to edge a board and when wider piece trys to fit  Let me tell you proably wont forget again ;D ;D
Brian

[Ron Wenrich]

They all tell you how much cant you have left.  Its the distance from the knees to the saw. 

[snowshoveler]

The local guys have a flat idler on the board side of the blade that they can set at 1 inch or whatever thickness they want to cut.
Its easily adjustable and has a nice measure on it.
Because its on the board side the measure is the actual thickness of the board.
So if you are cutting 1 inch material that's what you set it at and everything is the same size. Just keep pulling out on the cant, it can only come out as far as the idler. Works the same at 2 inches or whatever.
I plan to make up one and see how it works for me.
I hope I explained it so you understand.
Regards Chris

[beenthere]

snowshoveler
Member Captain_crunch has a similar setup, if I'm not mistaken.

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,56260.msg815297.html#msg815297

[snowshoveler]

I thought I saw one of those here but could not find it.
My friends mills are the same sort except the idler is about 6 inches high.
I do beleive that I will copy 1 more thing from the Captain.
Regards Chris

[Ron Wenrich]

On most setworks, they have stops that you put a pin in.  That stops on the thickness that you want.  You just pull the pin, put it in the desired thickness, then pull your setworks handle.  Frick went from 1/2" to 2".  Kerf was added in.  Your setwork doesn't have that?

You'll be surprised at how good you can get by eyeballing a set. 

[snowshoveler]

I don't think the belsaw mills have that option.
At least mine dosen't. I think I have the oldest belsaw still used.
The number on the mandrel collar is A6
Chris