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Reverse Roll QS on a manual mill

Started by kelLOGg, April 11, 2017, 08:55:06 AM

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kelLOGg

Following Yellowhammer's QS method on my manual mill showed me I needed some tools in addition to my cam clamps and squaring arms to stabilize a cant on edge. The pics show what I ended up using.

I use a bottle jack w/ a sharp ring tack welded to the tip to bite into the cant to lift/rotate. Adjustable braces (1/2 - 13 threaded rod) are inserted to counter the sawing force caused by the blade. My squaring arms pivot and so are not very useful to hold the angle without a good bit of force against them.


 



 


Blocks clamped to the bunks hold the cant and define its pivot point.


 


The last piece is pretty small so sawing was done very slowly. I flipped the pieces and sawed off the bottom.


 


Tools needed are pretty simple. The scissor jack is used to push cant when needed.


 

Sorry, no pics of the lumber - they are stacked for drying.
Thanks again to Yellowhammer.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Magicman

Now that is digging in and clawing the "goody" out of that log.   smiley_thumbsup
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Deese

kelLOGg, I read YH's thread explaining this. How interesting!
Is this the first log that you've done this way? Do you plan to continue this method on certain logs?
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

kelLOGg

I have done about 3 logs (6 halves) this way and I plan to continue. It does take more time and there is a learning curve but the last log I did went much faster than the first. (I didn't time it). The little adjustable braces are surprisingly effective at stabilizing the cant during the cut but I am open to using blocks and maybe even the squaring arm; it all depends on the size/shape of the cant. To make sure the braces have bitten into the cant I release the jack letting the cant settle into the brace then reapply the jack pressure just a tad so it make contact with the cant.
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Weekend_Sawyer


I like it! Simple and useful.

Magic Man, my mother used to use that term all the time.

...looking into a mostly empty soup pot, "There's plenty of goody left in there"

Jon
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

YellowHammer

Thats some serious ingenuity.  How did the boards turn out?
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

kelLOGg

Actually, I was a little disappointed in the ray fleck. I got more in the sapwood than the heart. I think it was due to the log (I know, but really ::)) - the small cracks began to curve as they went thru the heart toward the pith so there was no way a straight line saw path could be perpendicular to the growth rings in both the heart and sapwood. I should have cleaned up an end of a board and taken a pic.
Thanks for the feedback.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

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