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D-logs

Started by jdtuttle, February 26, 2009, 09:56:13 AM

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jdtuttle

I have lots of white pine blow downs between 6" & 8". I was thinking about making D shaped logs for a small cabin. Flat 3 sides & leave the natural curve of the log on the outside. I was wondering if anyone ever used a logosol molder to cut dados in the top & bottom & use hardwood splines to keep the logs lined up. Plan is to saw three sides to about 5". Kiln dry the logs, run them through the woodmaster planer for sizing, then finish it off with the logosol. Any ideas or suggestions?
Jim
Have a great day

ARKANSAWYER


  The problem with natural edge D logs is they do not fit through equimpent.  I have sawn them and then taken a skill saw and cut dado's in them for splines.  Then I found it was easier to just put a 1x5's between the runs and bolt them with timber tites. (long thin screws)  If you do it butt & pass style it goes up fast and easy for small cabins.  So for a 16 ft square cabin you need 18 ft long logs.
ARKANSAWYER

Cedarman

Years ago when custom sawing we did several weeks worth of work for a white pine log cabin builder.  We would cut 2 opposite faces on smaller logs and d logs out of bigger logs.  He would immediately debark the faces and then stack the lops to dry.  They would stain after awhile, but then he used bleach solution to brighten them back up when he was ready to build.  Before the teflon screws, he used big cabin nails.  He would use a thick piece of pine in between logs and then used permachink on wire to fill in the crack.
I am in the pink when sawing cedar.

pineywoods

Cut your D logs on your sawmill, then use a router to mill a grove in the top and bottom surfaces. Cut a spline on a table saw to fit in the grooves. Trying to run D logs through a moulder can turn into a real can of worms, most likely mess up your back.  :( The ends can be notched on your sawmill also. Search for a thread called pine log cabin, lots of pics from start to finish... It's the one on my avatar
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jdtuttle

Thanks guys,
Now I just need to get the logs out. I hate cutting wind blown trees. You never know where there going, that's why I go slow & easy with them. Piney I have been watching your thread on the cabin. Nice job. I like the router idea. Arky, I'm not sure I follow how the 1x5's hold. Do you put them between each row & bolt them with timber tites?
Thanks,
Jim
Have a great day

bodagocreek2

Hi - new to forum but not to lumber and logs. Learned some things in the last 4 months on here.  Built a log cabin in 1986 out of white cedar - cut two sides and kept the taper' Smallest end  about 7 inches, large about 12. Used draw knives and chainsaw. For a wind barrier between logs snapped chalk line, Follow line with chainsaw about 11/2 inch deep. Rip scrap plywood 1/4 or 3/8ths into approx. 3 inch widths and place in grooves. Really fast. Place 1/2inch X2inch expandable foam on  inside. Nail about every 3feet with 12inch spiral spikes. Used Permachink inside and out. Hasn't moved in 23 years. Good luck with project- lots of fun.

brdmkr

Never done it, but the router idea seems appealing to me.  Escpecially if you rigged a straight edge for the router.  I could see buildig a jig such that  you push the back fo the 'D' against a fence and the routed full length using a straight-edge with the router.  The flat back of the D should make it fairly straight forward to make the grooves very consistent.
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