swing blades and small logs

[DanG]

That's what I'm envisioning.  You would have an "H" shaped framework on the ground that would only be for stability.  The "arches" would be fastened to that, then you would have a longitudinal pair of "rails", if you will, that would cradle the log.  The rails would be just a pair of 2x4s or something, with a bit of steel under them.  The arches would only have to be about 6" long, cause you only need to raise the log 4".  Those little 7 or 8 inch pines are light enough to be handled by hand, with a little help from Logrite ;D  and you could rotate the assembly with a detachable lever(a stick in a hole).

You would just load the log at the lower level, skin the top off, then raise it up with one motion, without walking to the corners of the frame, and make your other 3 cuts at that level.  You could cut 4x4s all day and never touch the winches on the mill.

Maybe I'd better shut up and call the patent office, eh? :D :D

[NZJake]

All you need if your considering a swingblade is... a WPF with ellectric up and down and 3 sets of clawed logdogs ingrooved into your bunks.

A matter of a few seconds you'll have your cutting head up or down without moving an inch. I did a whole bunch of those pesky sized logs in Germany, 'Ulf's yard, over here we'd call them firewood. Still managed to get some nice timber out of them in a timely fashion though.

Thats the WPF's biggest advantage, single point sizing.

[brdmkr]

NZJake

I appreciate the advice, but I already have the mill and it is not WPM.  I have been studying on that DanG idea that DanG brought up.  I think he may be on to something about raising the log instead of lowering the mill.   I was looking yesterday and I really have A HEAP of those smaller trees.  It will definitely be worth my time to figure out a system to make sawing as efficient as possible.  Any ideas still welcome while I am in the studying  :P phase.

[DanG]

Hey Mike.  If ya get a free evening, why don't ya bounce up here after work and we'll build a prototype.  I'm thinkin' like a wooden mock-up, just to get more ideas and some dimensions from.  I got some ideas for clamps, but need more brain-power than I seem ta have.  Gimme a call tomorrow.

[scottr]

Dan , I like your idea of raising the log using arches and the lever  . My question is does the swing blade have enough reach to make the bottom cut using two by's as cradles and will it be steady enough without end dogging ?                                                                                                                  Scott

[DanG]

Yep and yep.  The 2x4s would just be clamping what will become the bottom slab.  Hadn't thought about end-dogs.  I think about the only ones using them are the scrag mills.  Might work here, though.  We'll consider it. ;)

[Arthur]

DanG

didnt thinkof that.  Why not use a scrag mill???.  Be very quick with the little logs.

[DanG]

'Cause he's already got a Lucas, and about 3 acres of small pines. ;)  If we build this thing and it works, I'll bring it to Moultrie and let ya try it on the Ecosaw.

[Arthur]

Should work on any swinger.  Good to have extra products that help you cut wood the mills arnt designed for.

little ones are always a problem.  The MiniMill likes them but it still takes about the same time to setup each log.  Difference is the little ones can be picked up.

I tried a couple of 'X' pieces of wood to support the small log a few feet of the ground.  It worked well enough but was a pain to get set right.  I guess I should spend some time working on getting it to work.

Make the 'X' out of 4x1 and a single bolt through the centre.  You then need to wedge the legs into the ground or brace to stop them seperating and collapsing.  By having the small log up off the ground you dont need to bend far and as Im getting older I tend not to want to be bending much.

You should be able to put some sort of dog on this as well.

arthur

[Vermonter]

Another trick for small logs that I have used is a "stair step" set up.  Start with the logs on the lower part of the skids and flatten the top.  You can do three or four at a time.  Fasten a couple of 2" x 6" (6" x 2" for the downunder conversion) pieces on the left side of the skids, and roll the log onto those.  If your blade is 4" over the second skids, you won't have to raise or lower the saw.  This way, the log is topped, then moved up 2" and the other side is cut.  I cut quite a few landscape timbers this way a while back, with just the top and bottom flattened like a log cabin log.
As for the X braces, a friend of mine built a trough to hold 3" x 3" at a 45 degree angle (corner posts for apple boxes).  Very fast.

[Part_Timer]

Vermonter for some reason I can't picture it in my head you got a picture?? I'm a bit slow tonight ;D

[Vermonter]

I posted a drawing to my gallery.   It might make it more clear.  Some of these things are kind of difficult to describe.

[tnlogger]

now that would work and to square it put a square 2x4 on the end of the step and chock it and finish the two other cuts.

[Part_Timer]

I understand now thanks a lot. 

[Fla._Deadheader]

Guess I got another stoopid question ???

  Lets say that when using a swinger, as you PUSH the blade down the log, you are cutting on the "Right hand" side of the blade. When you cross over to do a double cut, you are still cutting on the "Right hand" side of the blade, correct, only in reverse direction ??

  If yer sawing 6" or smaller logs, why can't you space the logs just right, and saw between 2 logs, at the same time. ???  I know you have to set things up just right, but ??????

[Part_Timer]

I deleted my first post cause i had it backwards sorta so I'll try again

when you cut on the right side pushing away from you your are pushing the saw blade into the cut.  when you cross over you are cutting on the leftside pulling it into the cut. That is why you remove the riving knife and guards. 

when you try to cut between two logs the one on the left is correct but you are pulling on the right side and this is pulling the blade over and away from the cut if you pull fast enough the sawblade will actually push the log away from the blade and it will be riding up on the log not cutting in.

That is clearer than the first try I think???

[Fla._Deadheader]

I realize that cutting fast means problems. Would this be do-able the way I asked ???  I was figgerin that the cut pulling into the log might help offset the cut pulling away from the log ???

  You lock the carriage so it won't drift. You could clamp the logs so they don't move.  Just asking before I get to try the Peterson out and make a mess.

  I gotta cut many acres of small stuff  : :

[Roxie]

Here are the tree's that Fla. Deadheader is gonna cut! 




Your welcome, Harold, please don't thank me!   ;)

[DanG]

You might have enough power for that when you get the Cummins mounted on it, Harold. :D :D  The biggest problem would be the blade spinning the wrong way in one of the cuts, if I unnerstand yer question right.

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Why is that a problem ??? The cut would be a little over 4 inches deep ???

   The straight-line rip saw on the Belsaw Planer cuts in the wrong rotation.  I have sawn boards on a tablesaw feeding from the other side, WITH a hold-down and paying close attention.

  Fred, remember the price of fuel is going up.  ;) ;)

[scottr]

Harold  , I would think that the gullet would not be clear to allow proper feed rate for efficient sawing . Scott

[Arthur]

 PARTS OF THIS POST WERE EDITED OUT BY ADMININSTRATION

MILL MANFACTURERS SHALL LIMIT POSTS TO DESCRIBING THE ACTION OF THIER OWN PRODUCTS. CUTTING DOWN ANOTHER MANUFACTURING METHOD TO PROMOTE YOUR WAY OF DOING THINGS IS NOT TOLERATED ON THIS FORUM. 

On the EcoSaw we swing 180 degrees with the blade.  Doing a normal cut you first cut horizontally then swing the blade 90 and come back up the log.  We use two riving knives.  The horizontal cut uses the leftside of the blade and the virtical cut uses the rightside of the blade.

When doublecutting we come back up the log without turning the 90degrees for the virtical.  We are just doing a virtical cut but in the horizontal possition.  NO guards or any part of the mill need to be removed to do any cut you  need.  If you can think of a cut I will tell you how to do it safely without the need for modifications.

You realy should always have the cut pulling into the log.

arthur

[Ernie]

On my twin saw (Rimu)  the only danger area is in front of the mill, I have thrown some really big and heavy chunks that way, particularly when I started into the cut too fast.  If I start slowly until the verticle blade enters and starts to cut, there is no problem.

I have some 6" gum that I want to cut into 4X4's today, I'll let you know if I have any problems