Battery charging problem on LT30 with Kohler Magnum 16hp

retseih · October 15, 2012, 08:01:42 PM

I am having a problem with my LT30. I was sawing logs the other day when the feed motor bogged down. The battery was obviously not charging. I have the manual for the 16hp Magnum but the s/n has worn off and I'm not sure which configuration I have (i.e. electric start 1.25 amp charging system.) Any clues on how to identify which one I have? Other clues are the amp meter shows no deflection whatsoever. I have checked the wiring in the control module and there are no obvious broken wires. Any thoughts on where to start would be very helpful.

thx, Dick

sawman · October 16, 2012, 09:43:03 PM

we had a similar issue with our lt 30 several years ago, and found a wire broke at the end of the terminal,on the engine. just looking at it everything looked fine, but when we started actually checking our connections,the wire just
came loose at the terminal.

leroy in kansas · October 16, 2012, 10:00:15 PM

Ya may want to ck the voltage at the bat. while engine is running. Think It should be about 14.3 volts if the alternator is charging. If not, you have a good place to start. Next ck the voltage from field to ground at the alternator. if it's working look for break in wire.

Beaudeane · October 16, 2012, 11:03:40 PM

Check to make sure the battery is good to start. May have to charge it overnite then load test it. Can be done at a auto parts store if u dont have a load tester. Grounds are as important as the hot wires on 12 volt systems too. Will it operate off the alternator/generator if battery is disconnected? Good luck. Electric problems can be simple to fix but a big headache to find

Magic Smoke · October 17, 2012, 12:24:18 AM

Always check the obvious first, loose or corroded battery connections, etc. If connections look good find the voltage rectifier/regulator on the side of the engine, there will be three wires coming out of it...two that go behind the flywheel to the stator and one that goes to your amp meter. First check the voltage on the two wires coming from the stator, this is AC voltage so set your your meter for AC voltage and put your meter leads across the two wires, I don't remember the minimum AC voltage level required but it will probably be in the 20's with the engine running. If stator voltage is OK then check the third wire on the regulator going to the amp meter which will be the DC output, it should be approx 14.5 volts DC, if not, replace regulator/rectifier. If voltage out of regulator is OK, check voltage on both studs of amp meter, if it's 14.5 vdc on one stud and only batt voltage (approx 12v) on the other, than the amp meter is bad...just double up the wires on one stud of the meter effectively bypassing it.

retseih · October 17, 2012, 03:32:46 PM

Thanks everyone. I have located the voltage regulator and will begin the tests as noted by magic smoke. The amp meter is very erratic. It reads anywhere from no deflection to a steady 10 amps. I will keep you updated. Any input on what the amp meter should read if it is operating properly? thx, Dick

Magic Smoke · October 17, 2012, 05:23:33 PM

The amp meter reading is dependent upon the level of charge of the battery. If you place a heavy load on the battery you should see the amp meter increase, as the battery recovers the amp meter will steadily decrease.

retseih · October 17, 2012, 07:49:25 PM

I measured the voltage at the amp meter and am getting 14.5vdc on both poles. I get 14vdc at the battery with the motor running. I replaced the burnt out lamp and tightened all the bolts on the switch (although none really seemed loose.) I cleaned the connectors at the voltage regulator, and at the connector near the gas valve. I re-tightened the connectors in the control box for both bolts which both terminate ground connections. I am now getting a pretty consistant reading of 12amps on the amp meter, and it does fluctuate with load on the motor. It appears to be working properly at the moment, but I am not really convinced I fixed it. I will monitor it and see how it does. Thanks again for your help. Dick

trapper · October 17, 2012, 08:36:50 PM

I have a lt30 with a 16hp briggs. I had to replace the rectifier on it. The older machines have a weak charging system so I put a polorized pigtail just sticking out of the battery box and hook uo a 1.5 amp battery maintainer to it when done sawing. Lt30 manual with power up and feed. Works for me.
Marv

retseih · October 19, 2012, 10:35:57 AM

Marv (anybody with a 16hp Kohler Magnum),

Thanks for the tip. Sounds like we have a very similar mill. Mine was shipped in December 1986 according to the original bill of sale. The s/n for the mill is 12862769M. Looks like the first 4 numbers are Dec 86 and the last letter is M for manual. Anyone out there that can tell me the model number and serial number of their Kohler engine? The info has rubbed off the label on mine and I am trying to order parts. I know this is not very scientific, but I'm willing to bet if yours is the same vintage it will be close.

I don't always park my mill where there is power (I try to keep it out of site for the neighbors/HOA) so I can't really trickle charge it. I do have a charger I keep for my ATV. The previous owner had to replace the battery when I purchased the mill so this has probably been going on for a while. I plan to totally redo the wiring connections (e.g. the back of the key switch is pretty corroded) as I have time to eliminate this as a possibilty. I have already redone the power going to the power feed control box. The connections there were pretty corroded. I replaced the bolts with stainless on the Pos and Neg terminals coming out the back of the box. May just be my imagination, but the power feed seems to be much better now. Really appreciate the support.

thx, Dick

moandrich · October 19, 2012, 10:27:41 PM

We keep our battery charged with a solar charger from HF. Think I paid $13.00, works good, 1.5amps

trapper · October 19, 2012, 10:55:46 PM

In cased you missed it mine is 16 briggs but should be very simular. My mill is a 1987 and this summer I replaced the ignition switch also. Got it at napa. They told me it is the same switch used in the old willies jeep.
Marv

retseih · October 23, 2012, 07:25:05 AM

Thanks Moandrich...great tip. I will go check out the solar charger. My rule of thumb from HF is no moving parts...I guess this fits the bill.

retseih · October 23, 2012, 07:43:40 AM

Found this link for a 12V voltage regulator...my back ground is Electrical Engineering...oops I shouldn't admit that. Looks like some folks with the HF panel have "cooked" their battery since it doesn't regulate the power to the battery.

http://electroschematics.com/6899/12v-ldo-solar-charge-control/

Dick