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Woods porting

Started by Timbercruiser, May 13, 2012, 01:33:54 PM

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lumberjack48

This is the reason i didn't like buying a new saw, i didn't have time to break it in. I used to always try an buy their demo saw, it was broke in an all the bugs were out of it, if it had any.

Hi, Full Chisel, I'm glad you've learned the trick to the chain saw, sharp and keep it sharp. Then you both get along fine.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

Full Chisel

Thanks, guys.

Timbercruiser mentioned being new to all this. If he meant forums, he may have a background in saws.

But in case, it don't bother me any if a guy that knows he's serious goes and drops $700 US on a new Stihl. We don't want a guy to get carried away by hype on modding equipment. Those Stihl and Husky engineers are some of the best in any industry. They are plugging in what your saw needs. If there is some headroom available by honing up the castings and puttin' on some aftermarket stuff, I'd say run the saw five years then look at turning it into a racer.

With a 20" guide bar and .375 chain, that 362 will go thru anything and good on gas. For a 25" bar, that's askin' too much of a 59.5 cc saw and it's oiling capability. Take that modification money and get a roll of chain. Also, in any chainsaw, run the best gas you can find.
Jed: Jethro, how's come they ain't no ice in Kali Forni-a?

Jethro: Don't look at me Uncle Jed. I didn't take it.

Al_Smith

Most people are tickled to death with just the performance of a broken in saw .Others with just some work on the muffler .

A few of us are gear heads and just like to tinker and putz around and thus hot rod saws .That doesn't mean everyone has to or pay somebody 250 to 400 bucks to make you a hot rod you don't need .

I mean souped up saws are a hoot to run but do you really need it ,the big question ????

Clam77

My 362 would handle a 25" bar easy enough with plenty of oil to keep it from burning up... if I had one to put on it.  It handles a 20" with ease now that it's had over a dozen tanks of fuel ran through it.

A 60cc saw (without all the EPA regs) SHOULD be able to handle a 28" bar with moderate use - and mine does quite well - but it lacks on oil with it and I'd prefer not to burn the bar up.  Stihl RECOMMENDS a 20" bar, most likely because that's the biggest bar they make with the "anti-kickback" feature, but I'm assuming they also did it to keep people that know absolutely nothing about chainsaws from burning them up as they also claim a 50cc saw with a full HP less will handle a 20" bar.

Would it be nice if it had a little more power for that 28" bar.....  of course.   Do I need a hotrod saw... not really.   Can I get a bigger saw if I need to cut something bigger... there's always someone that has one.
Andy

Stihl 009, 028, 038, 041, MS362
Mac 1-40, 3-25

beenthere

Quote from: Clam77 on June 15, 2012, 09:40:53 PM
...................Stihl RECOMMENDS a 20" bar, most likely because that's the biggest bar they make with the "anti-kickback" feature, .........

Clam
What is different about a bar that has the "anti-kickback" feature?? Just curious.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Clam77

Quote from: beenthere on June 15, 2012, 09:49:12 PM
Quote from: Clam77 on June 15, 2012, 09:40:53 PM
...................Stihl RECOMMENDS a 20" bar, most likely because that's the biggest bar they make with the "anti-kickback" feature, .........

Clam
What is different about a bar that has the "anti-kickback" feature?? Just curious.

I'm not completely sure myself beenthere....   :-\

Stihl uses the green/yellow coloring scheme on their bars as well as their chain.. I can only assume there's something in the nose that helps it out somehow- maybe a dampened nose sprocket??   :-\

Once you get above 20" though they sell the "yellow" painted bars - not sure if they make a "yellow" 20" or not.  I'll have to check around here and see.
Andy

Stihl 009, 028, 038, 041, MS362
Mac 1-40, 3-25

Al_Smith

There's so called anti kick back chain but I'm not aware of anti kick back bars .Stihl bars as a general rule are painted white although I have a gray one on one of my 200t's .

barbender

I think the radius of the sprocket tip is smaller on the "low kick back" bars.
Too many irons in the fire

Full Chisel

Green and yellow on the Stihl chain: Green means (go) and yellow means, GO!!!!! Have you ever seen the John Carpenter movie, "Starman'" where the alien guy is learnin' to drive from the Earth woman? OK, dangerous territory there for my third post.

The green chain has that extra hump along with the raker, maybe the balance helps the bar keep from kicking back. It makes sense to adapt tools to fit men, except when it makes the tools less efficient. At that point, it makes more sense to train men how to safely operate sharp tools. Technology is good when it's in the right hands.

Just like these saws. Mods aside the MS362 blows away the previous platform. As does the 261 over the 026. They are tighter, quieter, smoke less and use less gas. They do weigh more. Same with the 441. The old 044 Mag is a man-eater but if guys think the MS441 won't outrun it far enough to offset the increased weight, I'd like a closer look 'cause that didn't happen here.

On the bars, I've noticed the ones with marked yellow have replaceable sprocket nose and green designated ones don't have replaceable nose.

AT 50.2cc, MS261 will handle a 20" .325 guide bar all day. A 16" bar with 26 Rapid Super comfort and .030 rakers turns her into oak scissors.
Jed: Jethro, how's come they ain't no ice in Kali Forni-a?

Jethro: Don't look at me Uncle Jed. I didn't take it.

Al_Smith

Oh this old "porting " thing gets so blowed out of proportion it becomes almost a laughing matter .

They choose up sides like an intermural basketball game and cheer on their great so called "builder "and make a big deal over a half a second cut time of three hits on an 8 by 8 .Big deal .

It ain't the rocket science they say it is .Not one person on the face of this earth was born with the ability to crank more power out an engine no matter if it's a 3,000 HP double A fuel dragster or SwampDonkeys brush saw .

They all had to learn at some time or another .There's just tons of info on the internet .Get a cheap saw with a removable cylinder and have at it .You'll never learn a blessed thing unless you do it . ;)

Full Chisel

Quote from: Al_Smith on June 16, 2012, 08:48:02 AMIt ain't the rocket science they say it is .Not one person on the face of this earth was born with the ability to crank more power out an engine no matter if it's a 3,000 HP double A fuel dragster or SwampDonkeys brush saw .

Are you saying that "Squish'" isn't relevant in thermodynamics?
Jed: Jethro, how's come they ain't no ice in Kali Forni-a?

Jethro: Don't look at me Uncle Jed. I didn't take it.

Al_Smith

What's that got to do wth the price of tea in China ? We're not talking about an alkie /nitro race saw on a tuned pipe are we ? ;)

Full Chisel

Quote from: Al_Smith on June 16, 2012, 10:52:44 AM
We're not talking about an alkie /nitro race saw on a tuned pipe are we ?

No.
Jed: Jethro, how's come they ain't no ice in Kali Forni-a?

Jethro: Don't look at me Uncle Jed. I didn't take it.

Al_Smith

Well okay then it's terminoligy then ."squish " is painting with a broad brush so to speak .It could be the piston head deck  clearance at top dead center or it could be the shape of the combustion chamber .

If it was used as reference and alluding to the fact of raising the compression ratio  then yes .That's pretty much standard practice .

However conversely if it's changing the shape or size of the combustion chamber perhaps with a removable head then it's race engine stuff .

"Squish "is often used like terms of "porting a muffler " now just how in the world do you port a muffler ?Rework one perhaps but port has nothing to do with it . ;)

JohnG28

Quote from: Clam77 on June 15, 2012, 10:53:05 PM
Quote from: beenthere on June 15, 2012, 09:49:12 PM
Quote from: Clam77 on June 15, 2012, 09:40:53 PM
...................Stihl RECOMMENDS a 20" bar, most likely because that's the biggest bar they make with the "anti-kickback" feature, .........

Clam
What is different about a bar that has the "anti-kickback" feature?? Just curious.

I'm not completely sure myself beenthere....   :-\

Stihl uses the green/yellow coloring scheme on their bars as well as their chain.. I can only assume there's something in the nose that helps it out somehow- maybe a dampened nose sprocket??   :-\

Once you get above 20" though they sell the "yellow" painted bars - not sure if they make a "yellow" 20" or not.  I'll have to check around here and see.

The difference between Stihl bars is that the green labeled ones are laminated, while the yellow labeled ones are solid steel with the replaceable tip.  Not sure why they label them this way.  The yellow label bars are available down to 16" or 18" though.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

John Mc

Other things being equal, laminated vs solid bars or replaceable vs non-replaceable tips doesn't affect kickback.  Now maybe they've shaped things differently or something?

Generally, solid bars and replaceable tips are considered more "pro" features, however.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Al_Smith

Well if it means any thing you've got narrow tipped bars and wide tip bars .I can't remember numbers and such but some of my 24" Stihl bars have a much larger radius on the tip than others .

Stands to reason a wide tip bar would be more prone to kick back .Now bear in mind they're all going to kick if you catch a tip .Now maybe not with that chain with a big long safety bar gizmo but it doesn't cut worth a hoot either .

John Mc

I agree the shape can make a difference. But there is nothing that says your can't make either a laminated bar or a solid bar in those various shapes.  It's not the mere fact that it's solid that somehow make sit more prone to kickback.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Al_Smith

To cut to the chase in all this it should be assumed that all bars and chain for that matter have to possibilty of kick back potentential .Some might be by design more anti kick back but never the less they can all cut you if they get away from you .

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