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Best way to finish Red Maple?

Started by Whitetail_Addict, May 26, 2012, 06:53:18 PM

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Whitetail_Addict

I have a lot of Red Maple that I want to machine to make T&G V paneling for a room in the new house. My wife and I really like the defects in lumber thAt give it character. I have hand picked a bunch of boards with colors from blonde to chocolate to salmon red. I was going to try a few different finishes to see which brought out the colors the best but then remembered the FF. what would you guys recommend?
2010 WoodMizer LT28, John Deere 4520 w/ FEL, 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel, 2007 Polaris Ranger XP 700, 127 Acres of Northeast hardwoods in New York's Whitetail country

beenthere

Watco Danish oil Natural

It is what I use on all my indoor wood paneling and trim from walnut to cedar.

Easy to put on, and easy to add coats right away or at a later time.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

WDH

Danish oil will pop the grain and figure, and give it a nice warm glow, not real shiny.  Be sure and let it dry thoroughly between coats.  I had good luck letting each coat get totally dry, then lightly scuff with 0000 steel wool between coats.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

5quarter

watco is a good, easy to use product for low traffic applications like panelling. For better penetration and adhesion, wipe it down with Naptha and let dry for about 10-15 min. before applying the oil finish.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

WDH

I also found that to get that warm satin sheen, it helps to have finely sanded the boards down to 220 grit.  It they are real smooth, the oil finish will develop that nice satin sheen. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Whitetail_Addict

Great. Thanks a lot guys. That's something I never would have thought of. Thanks again!
2010 WoodMizer LT28, John Deere 4520 w/ FEL, 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax Diesel, 2007 Polaris Ranger XP 700, 127 Acres of Northeast hardwoods in New York's Whitetail country

beenthere

I have also used 400 wet/dry sandpaper along with the oil to get a super smooth finish on wood. Takes the top off the raised fibers that can stick up with the first applications of oil.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

WDH

Using the fine grit sandpaper also makes an oil/fine sawdust slurry that fills the pores of ring porous or more open grained wood like oak, ash, walnut.  This creates an exceptionally smooth finish.  You coat the wood liberally with oil and try to "sand it in" with the sandpaper.  Once the oil gets tacky, wipe it completely off removing every last little bit.  Once dry, repeat as many times as you like.  I usually do two or three coats.  The first coat is not really impressive, but the second coat really looks good.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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