Rip and crosscut saws for timber frames. What works for you?

[swmn]

Both are on the list of tools.  I claim hybrid status here, I am perfectly happy to do all the cutting I can with a circular saw before finishing up with a handsaw.

I have been fooling with saw sharpening a bit and came up with a set that works pretty well with green Doug Fir (WWPA) from Lowes-Depot, local they consistently come in at 19.99% moisture content with my two pronged firewood meter.

I am using 5 points per inch on both my rip and crosscut, with just a touch of fleam (ten degrees) on the rip for irregular grain.  I am using 20 thousandths of an inch of set on both blades, comparing the width of the blade at the tips of the teeth to the thickness off the plate just above the teeth.  

Not looking to write a primer on saw sharpening.  

rip = 5 teeth, 8 degrees rake, 10 degrees horizontal fleam, zero gullet slope, 20 thousandths of set  
crosscut = 5 teeth, 20 degrees rake, 20 degrees horizontal fleam, 20 degrees gullet slope, 20 thousandths set.

Works pretty good on Doug Fir at 20% MC.



 

 

 

[carhartted]

I use a double sided Japanese pull saw. Like you most of my cutting is done with a circular saw.

[Dave Shepard]

I use the Stanley Sharptooth saws. I have all the tools to sharpen saws,  but haven't done much of it.