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New EZ Boardwalk Jr not cutting straight

Started by Darren, October 07, 2018, 07:35:06 AM

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hturner12

When they do competions the set the end to end on a slight head to foot down angle. Kinda makes it autofeed.
Hugh
Ezbordwalk Jr

Darren

I appreciate the feedback guys. Unfortunately, I havent been able to get back to it until yesterday. I have the track almost 100% level on some 4x4's. I put maybe a 4 1/2 foot ash log on it that was given to me and made a slab that was about 1/12 off from end to end. The log started to move around a little as it was getting close to the end so I'm figuring that might be the reason its off just a little. The good news is I'm definitely alot better off than last weekend, bad news its raining this morning.

hturner12

Quote from: Darren on October 13, 2018, 08:26:07 AM
I appreciate the feedback guys. Unfortunately, I havent been able to get back to it until yesterday. I have the track almost 100% level on some 4x4's. I put maybe a 4 1/2 foot ash log on it that was given to me and made a slab that was about 1/12 off from end to end. The log started to move around a little as it was getting close to the end so I'm figuring that might be the reason its off just a little. The good news is I'm definitely alot better off than last weekend, bad news its raining this morning.
Darren 
Where you able to use both clamps?
Hugh
Ezbordwalk Jr

Darren


hturner12

Hugh
Ezbordwalk Jr

Darren

How are these blades that come with the Jr for hardwood? I switched to some Hemlock with much better results from the ash. The boards are a little off yet but came out so much nicer, they are very close to perfect. The track is a touch springy in the middle so that could be why the hemlock I milled is off a little. He'll of alot better than any wood at lowes or home depot tho. Will try and post pictures later

hturner12

Have not had a chance to try them. First the fuel system on the tractor  acted up. Git it fixed then it started jumping out of forward. The tractor is at my neighbors shop so we can split it and find the problem. Plus the rain from the storm.

In a spirited  discussion  with the wife she brought up the fact  of how much I spent on the  mill and have not cut the first log. Reminded her again the tractor down and unles she wants  to be on the cant hook  while  I am on the pevy to move and load   the logs by hand got to wait till tractor is up, 
Hugh
Ezbordwalk Jr

Darren

I hear ya there. Definitely easier with the equipment, I havent done anything to big as of yet to need the tractor. I took a look and the blades that come with it are meant woods that are softer. 93ss is what they come with, I believe it said 83ss for woods that are harder. Best of luck with your tractor, hope you get it straightened out so you can get to milling. There's been a little frustration trying to get it setup correct but ive been having fun as I go.

Downstream

Here are a couple of more helpful comments.  First the blade rollers have a small step to a slightly larger diameter at their base.  those steps create the backstop surface the back edge of the blade should butt up against.  Second if you are sawing shorter logs that don't reach to both clamps in the std position you can move the clamps closer by removing one and re-positioning it in the pre-drilled holes in the frame rails between the cross members.  only takes a few minutes to move it.
EZ Boardwalk Jr,  Split Second Kinetic logsplitter, Granberg Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, Stihl 660 and 211, Logrite 60" cant hook, Dixie 32 Tongs

LeeB

Quote from: hturner12 on October 13, 2018, 10:02:10 PM


In a spirited  discussion  with the wife she brought up the fact  of how much I spent on the  mill and have not cut the first log. Reminded her again the tractor down and unles she wants  to be on the cant hook  while  I am on the pevy to move and load   the logs by hand got to wait till tractor is up,

Tell her it's a better hobby than hanging out in the local beer joint. 
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

hturner12

Quote from: LeeB on October 14, 2018, 01:31:25 AM
Quote from: hturner12 on October 13, 2018, 10:02:10 PM


In a spirited  discussion  with the wife she brought up the fact  of how much I spent on the  mill and have not cut the first log. Reminded her again the tractor down and unles she wants  to be on the cant hook  while  I am on the pevy to move and load   the logs by hand got to wait till tractor is up,

Tell her it's a better hobby than hanging out in the local beer joint.
Stopped drinking long time ago, but I know what you are saying. I got to saw just the lumber for the interior of the our house under design however I been giving thought once I get some  experiance of do8ng a few jobs a month  to cover the payment. 
Hugh
Ezbordwalk Jr

Darren

Quote from: Downstream on October 14, 2018, 01:06:30 AM
Here are a couple of more helpful comments.  First the blade rollers have a small step to a slightly larger diameter at their base.  those steps create the backstop surface the back edge of the blade should butt up against.  Second if you are sawing shorter logs that don't reach to both clamps in the std position you can move the clamps closer by removing one and re-positioning it in the pre-drilled holes in the frame rails between the cross members.  only takes a few minutes to move it.
My blade looked like maybe it had a slight slant to it. I would drag the saw head back across the top of the log and watch it as a guide to see how it looked and the teeth seem like they are angled down compared to the back of the blade, normal? As far as the clamps go I should have realised that, thank you for pointing that out.

Skipper11A

Darren,  EZ Boardwalk ships with Timberwolf 10° blades which are marketed as "General purpose" but really don't work well in very hard woods especially when you are making very wide cuts.  They are great blades, just the wrong angle for "hard to cut" and "extremely hard to cut" woods.  I reground my Timberwolf blades to 4° and get MUCH better performance from them in hard woods.  I reground them with EZ Boardwalk's blade sharpener with the diamond wheel, and used a protractor to set the angle.

Many forum members use 4° blades while others a using Turbo 7° blades with good results.

Darren

Quote from: Skipper11A on October 14, 2018, 01:08:28 PM
Darren,  EZ Boardwalk ships with Timberwolf 10° blades which are marketed as "General purpose" but really don't work well in very hard woods especially when you are making very wide cuts.  They are great blades, just the wrong angle for "hard to cut" and "extremely hard to cut" woods.  I reground my Timberwolf blades to 4° and get MUCH better performance from them in hard woods.  I reground them with EZ Boardwalk's blade sharpener with the diamond wheel, and used a protractor to set the angle.

Many forum members use 4° blades while others a using Turbo 7° blades with good results.
Awesome, thank you

justallan1

I agree with Skipper.
Sawing ash definitely requires something other than a 10 degree blade.
I have an EZ Jr. and had to use a 4 degree blade to saw some wide ash logs. I initially tried the 7 degree blade and with the angle of the blade on the EZ adding to the hook angle it actually draws the blade into the logs causing it to dive.
My mill likes the Kasco blades and I like the price.

Darren

Thanks, i was searching a little last night with no luck. Will jump on kasco's site and look.

hturner12

Try the ripper 37 also. Jerry buys roll stock builds on site.
https://www.jerrysresharp.com

He will sell less than 15.


The Kasco you have to buy in increments of 15 they are made in Mexico ship to St Louis  for distribution. Richard sells them. 

http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=97915.0

You may luck out and find a local shop to save on shipping you also have to consider your resharp service with 2 x shipping. 

When I get my tractor fixed and can start cutting  I 1 Timberwolf 10°, 2 ripper 37 7° ,2 Kasco 4° and 2 woodmizer turbo 7 that I am going  to test on hickory,  white oak, red oak, tulip poplar, and sweetgum. The hickory has been down a out a year.
I have a blade shop 20 minutes from me. The advise  I got from Jerry, Richard and the local shop was find a blade that  works on your hardest wood and use it for everything vs a 10 ° for this wood a 7 degree for that wood.  Also in our detailed instruction sheet from Stanton about do not a new blade more than 2 hours
Hugh
Ezbordwalk Jr

ladylake

 
 You mentioned you left everything at factory settings, I think you have roller guides, check and make sure you have 1/4" down pressure. Sometime they get out of the factory not quite right.  Also get some 4 degree blade , 10 degree will cut straight but a slower feed rate.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Darren

Thanks for all the tips on the blades, will get some 7's and 4's to try. Closest place to me to get blades would be from Hudson, I'm about an hour and 30 minutes from where they are actually built out of Barneveld, NY. Ladylake, as far as the down pressure goes are you saying the guides should push down a 1/4" with blade engaged?

Skipper11A

Quote from: ladylake on October 16, 2018, 07:34:52 AMYou mentioned you left everything at factory settings, I think you have roller guides, check and make sure you have 1/4" down pressure. Sometime they get out of the factory not quite right.  Also get some 4 degree blade , 10 degree will cut straight but a slower feed rate.  Steve
Ladylake's advice is for Timberking and Woodmizer mills.  Do not do this with the EZ Boardwalk because it is designed to have no down pressure from the roller guides.  The roller guides will only come into play when the blade begins to deflect in the cut.  Don't change the factory settings because that's not your issue,  your issue is finding the correct blade angle... and you just need a lot more experience actually cutting wood. 

Another issue you may have to watch for is pitch building up on your blades, that would also not be a good thing but I haven't heard you mention that yet.

gmmills

Darren, You need to be using a lower hook angle blade. With your lower hp get some 4 deg Kasco blades to cut the hardwoods. Just contact Cutting Edge, Richard, he will steer you in the right direction. I buy all my Kasco blades from him.

                              Cutting Edge Saw Service
                         
                                Ph. 304-878-3343
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

Darren

Ordered some of those ripper 37's last night, will be in contact with cuttingedge as well for some 4 degree blades shortly. I do have some pitch buildup after that hemlock. I was reading try some dish soap to decrease buildup. And you are absolutely right I need experience.

ladylake

 
If I adjusted mine with no down pressure I'd be cutting crooked lumber also, TK only recommends 1/8" , the first thing I did was to adjust it to 1/4"  and it cuts straighter after that.  There is no downside to 1/4" down pressure. What makes the roller guide turn with no down pressure.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Skipper11A

Quote from: ladylake on October 17, 2018, 05:41:45 AMIf I adjusted mine with no down pressure I'd be cutting crooked lumber also, TK only recommends 1/8" , the first thing I did was to adjust it to 1/4"  and it cuts straighter after that.  There is no downside to 1/4" down pressure. What makes the roller guide turn with no down pressure.  Steve
Steve, my only point is that new sawmill owners should learn to master their mill with the factory setup without introducing new variables.  After mastering your mill, it's okay to experiment because you've got enough experience to really understand what you're doing. 

Today, I have to finish milling a big pecan that is producing beautiful lumber.  I'm going to put 1/8" down pressure on my roller guides and I'll let you know how it goes. 

Darren

Any of you guys with the boardwalk have the cable start fraying for the head lift? Mine is on the right hand side if youre pushing the mill. After some playing around my lumber is coming out much better.

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