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Harbor Freight Mill Mods & Repairs

Started by Kingmt, October 21, 2015, 10:04:07 AM

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Kingmt

I've done a few things in the short time I've had my mill. I decided to start a thread that I can keep updating so people that are interested in this mill can see how things are going for me, what problems I'm having, & how I've adapted.

I usually us file hosting sites to host my pictures but since I haven't read the rules on this & I think I've seen others told not to do this there probably won't be any pictures.

I'll keep editing the list in the first post as long as I'm allowed. If there is a time limit on editing I'll ask a mods help in editing or add to the list in a new reply.

I hope this will be useful to people looking into this mill or helpful to this having problems with it.

First thing I did was order two pieces of angle that was 20' 5/16" thick 3"x4" long to allow me to cut longer logs. This also allowed a couple of extra inch's of log high.

In extending the track I decided to make new bunks. I'm using H structure & only since I already drilled homes to fit the stock bunks I decided to drill on one side of the H structure for mounting. I also bought 2" thin tubing for the standers but since they are metric I had to weld a thin piece of angle in one corner to take up the slack. I plan on putting this on both sides to help with loading logs to keep then from rolling of the other side.

I use aa 1.5"x2" block on the tip of the log dog after getting it into a cant or board to keep from damaging them.

I need to be able to move my log dog around to get in the best position to hold the log so I welded small pieces of pipe to angle that will slide over the piece of pipe that the log dog tracks on. I use C clamp vise grips ATM to hold it in place.

I wasn't cutting very good lumber with the stock blade so I ordered 4° Wood Maxx blades from Kasco. You'll need to call & talk to Derek to get these since they aren't listed in their site.

In very short turn the roller bearings on the guides froze up so I removed them popped the seals & used Dextron III to get them moving again. Once moving I washed them out & filed with grease.

The drive belt doesn't fit the clutch so the side will get cut out of it. I've yet to address this.

I'm considering upgrading to a bigger engine.

Edited:21Oct15 5:50PM EDST

Another mod is turning the roller legs around backwoods & switching sides with them. Saw dust was packing in the rulers on about every cut. Putting the shirt side in back & the long leg in front keeps the dust from being blown under the roller. It also moves the stater & locking cams closer to you when standing at the back of the track.

I was having a problem with locking cams not having enough pressure to keep from sliding down the post during a cut. The quick fix was using my wife's hair bungee to hold the cable crank until I tightened up the cam locks. However they are a poor design & if you don't push up on the hinges & pull down on the handle at the same time the rod will bend. As I get time I'll decide how to address this. More then likely with a new design.

Edited: 22Oct15 8:15PM EDST

This isn't a mod but I think I should add this as well. Cutting Edge (a respected member here) told me to get the proper tension on the blade use a caliper ran out to 6" & clamp it to the slacked blade. Tension the blade until you get .005" of stretch.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

Ga Mtn Man

It's a great idea to start a thread on these mills as there seems to be plenty of room for improvement but, if you're going to do it, you really need to learn how to post pics.  It isn't that difficult.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Kbeitz

A lot more people will watch your post with pictures.

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Kingmt

It isn't that I don't know how to post pictures. I do it in other forms all the time. It is the rules that restrict them that is prohibitive. I don't have much data so in selective how I upload. Of I could just use code to show them & have then hosted somewhere else I probably would. I'm usually to busy while working to take pictures anyhow.

I figure if someone needs this information it can still be useful without the pictures.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

knightgang

We love pictures.

I am soon about to buy one of these mills, so any upfront advise or details on mods that I have have ready to go when I get the mill home will be great.

Tom the Sawyer

Kingmt,

I think it is more helpful if you respond to comments in order, rather than going back and editing your original post.  If you do that there will be comments after the original that won't make any sense because you changed the original.  It is easier to follow a thread over time.  Many readers only read the unread posts and would miss out on your edits of earlier posts.

I already have a larger mill so will be reading for general interest but photos go a very long way to illustrating what you are talking about, especially when you are explaining modifications.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

Shotgun

You really should learn to post photos.  Many folks post one  or more with their very first post on the forum.   ;)
Joined The Forestry Forum 5 days before 9/11.

Kingmt

Quote from: Shotgun on October 21, 2015, 05:23:08 PM
You really should learn to post photos.  Many folks post one  or more with their very first post on the forum.   ;)
I've already explained it isn't a matter of knowing how. I'm not going to intentionally break some rules & I'm not willing to go about uploading then.

Quote from: Tom the Sawyer on October 21, 2015, 04:26:29 PM
Kingmt,

I think it is more helpful if you respond to comments in order, rather than going back and editing your original post.  If you do that there will be comments after the original that won't make any sense because you changed the original.  It is easier to follow a thread over time.  Many readers only read the unread posts and would miss out on your edits of earlier posts.

I agree so I'll do both to make it easier to fallow & to make it easier to find them all in one place.

Another mod is turning the roller legs around backwoods & switching sides with them. Saw dust was packing in the rulers on about every cut. Putting the shirt side in back & the long leg in front keeps the dust from being blown under the roller. It also moves the stater & locking cams closer to you when standing at the back of the track.

I was having a problem with locking cams not having enough pressure to keep from sliding down the post during a cut. The quick fix was using my wife's hair bungee to hold the cable crank until I tightened up the cam locks. However they are a poor design & if you don't push up on the hinges & pull down on the handle at the same time the rod will bend. As I get time I'll decide how to address this. More then likely with a new design.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

StimW

 I have a lot of pics of my HF mill. If you go to my gallery you can see them.
I do find it harder to post pics on this board than others that I frequent.

i am happy with my mill overall. I own a fabrication shop and I could not build a mill for what I paid for this one.


 
New HF Band Mill
Branson 35 hp 4 WD Diesel Tractor W/Attachments- Backhoe, FEL W/ Bucket or Forks, 4' Tiller
4000# Clark Forklift W/24" Tires
Promark 6" Brush chipper W/18 hp Kohler

Kingmt

Thanks for your picture Stim. I see your rollers are already in the poison I moved mine to. I'm happy with my purchase also. If I was too so it over I'd still by this first but I may build me a bigger one yet. Seeing where this one can be improved should help me make a better mill & I still get to saw in the mean time.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

Raider Bill

what size and where do you get blades?
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

Kingmt

Quote from: Raider Bill on October 22, 2015, 08:39:16 AM
what size and where do you get blades?

Quote from: Kingmt on October 21, 2015, 10:04:07 AM
I wasn't cutting very good lumber with the stock blade so I ordered 4° Wood Maxx blades from Kasco. You'll need to call & talk to Derek to get these since they aren't listed in their site.

They are 144" x 1.25"
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

Raider Bill

The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.

Kingmt

IDK but I find them listed on different sites so I'd guess so.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

Kingmt

This isn't a mod but I think I should add this as well. Cutting Edge (a respected member here) told me to get the proper tension on the blade use a caliper ran out to 6" & clamp it to the slacked blade. Tension the blade until you get .005" of stretch.

Edited to fix typo.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

Kbeitz

Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 04:18:56 PM
This isn't a mod but I think I should add this as well. Cutting Edge (a respected member here) told me to get the proper tension on the blade use a caliper ran out to 6" & clamp it to the slacked blade. Tension the blade until you get .050" of stretch.
That would change depending on the thickness and the width of your blade ...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

customsawyer

Thickness of the blade don't matter. A thicker blade just needs more tension to reach .050".
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

Cutting Edge

Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 04:18:56 PM

Tension the blade until you get .050" of stretch.


This should be 0.005" or (5 thousandths) of a inch of measured "stretch". 

Note:

To obtain this much tension, a larger outside diameter flat washer is needed that fits snug inside the tube.  Otherwise, the rubber insert will deform and start to "squish" out around the stock washer and deform the insert.  The replacement washer might have to have the outer diameter ground to get a snug fit. 

"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

Kingmt

Quote from: Cutting Edge on October 22, 2015, 08:10:12 PM
Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 04:18:56 PM

Tension the blade until you get .050" of stretch.


This should be 0.005" or (5 thousandths) of a inch of measured "stretch". 

Note:

To obtain this much tension, a larger outside diameter flat washer is needed that fits snug inside the tube.  Otherwise, the rubber insert will deform and start to "squish" out around the stock washer and deform the insert.  The replacement washer might have to have the outer diameter ground to get a snug fit. 



Thanks for correcting my typo.

To obtain .005" or .050" you need the washer? I'm not quite fallowing. What insert?
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

Kingmt

If there is others that have/had this mill or know this mill your mods & repair info is welcome. I started this thread with the intent to provide the info that I'd searched for & couldn't find before buying my mill. So any suggestions would be great.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

Cutting Edge

Quote from: Kingmt on October 22, 2015, 08:19:31 PM

To obtain .005" or .050" you need the washer? I'm not quite fallowing. What insert?


You have a "T" handle for applying tension the blade, under that is a flat washer.  Under that flat washer (inside the round tube) is a stiff rubber insert.

The original flat washer is undersized in relationship to the tube.  This gap allows the rubber insert to squeeze out past the washer, which in turn, reduces it's effectiveness to keep the blade properly tensioned.  The larger (replacement) washer reduces the gap so the whole insert is compressed evenly.

While you have it apart, put some GOOD marine grade grease on the acme threaded rod and also a little on the face of the washer that contacts the "T" handle... NONE on the rubber insert side of the washer.  Helps prevent gaulding of the threads and reduces friction, making tensioning the blade surprisingly easier.

While you're at it, disassemble the crank assembly and do the same to it.  The bronze threaded insert is a known weak spot and they don't have much lubrication on them from the factory.  Pay extra attention to the thrust bearing and repack it.

"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

Kingmt

Thanks I'll look into that on the tensioner. I took the crank for the cables apart already & mind was full of grease. I've been thinking about taking it back apart for a closer inspection & possibly a half nut fabrication.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

Kingmt

Well looks like my time is up to be able to edit the first post.

I was having large amounts of saw dust getting in the rollers which I still need to make a way of self cleaning. Until then I decided to try to deal with where the dust is coming from. The dust is traveling over to the idler side & dropping out of the cover on the track right in front of the wheel. I have planned to add a piece on angle to the bottom of the head post just clearing the track. Possibly adding a brush to it as well. In the mean time I've added some duct tape to the band housing just below where the blade comes out of the cover. This cause most of the dust to now fall inside of the track instead of on it.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

dukecrazy

I've seen pictures of the wire fanned out in a way to act as a brush for the wheels to clean the dust from them and also, what about the other member on here that posted his pic with a bucket to catch most of the dust that is made instead of letting it hit the ground? either seems like a decent way to cut down the the dust messing up the wheels on the track.
G3033 LS tractor w/FEL, multiple chainsaws, and Central machinery sawmill.

Kingmt

I think I seen one with a bucket hanging like mine but I'm not sure of the other one. Your welcome to post links. I'm going to send you a link to my G+. I'll have to check to see if I'm allowed to post it here before I do.
Sawmill=Harbor Freight Item#62366
Chainsaws=MS180CBE(14"), MS290(18"), MS038(20"), MS660(20" & 36")
Staff=1Wife & 5 Kids :)
Please excuse my typing. I don't do well at catching auto correct.

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