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01 Frick questions

Started by NMFP, November 25, 2011, 09:01:41 PM

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york

Erich,your saying only one set-works but with two levers?Almost time to get your camera going...Friends of mine rebuilt a 00frick and they ended buying an extra mill in order to rebuild the best mill...bert
Albert

beenthere

Quote from: NMFP on December 01, 2011, 08:24:46 AM
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I think I will definately need a good supply of PB blaster for the dissassembly.
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Your best friend would be some Blue Creeper. It will work better and use a lot less.  8)

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south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ron Wenrich

Ones for forward, ones for reverse.  It sounds like an old setworks system.  Pre WWII.  I remember a friend of mine had a couple of new setworks from back in the 1920s.  They were Frick, and they had a place for someone to sit.  The sawyer fed the log into the saw, and they had a guy who sat on the carriage and set the carriage and dogs.  I believe that one had 2 handles, if I recall.

The newer ones had one handle that you turned to the left or right to activate the forward pawl or the reverse pawl.  Later they got into power receders, which put the setworks in neutral and you could put the headblocks front or back depending on which way the carriage was running.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

NMFP

I am going to try to take pictures of it over christmas and then post them here for you to see.  The one setworks works the way I know they should but then the other one, does not have anything to reverse the direction.  Only move it forward.  It doesnt have teeth that go the opposite direction.

Another question I was thinking of today was, there is a setworks scale on the carriage now but it is rather crude and not very user friendly.  Has anyone made another version of a setworks scale that will work easily and is easy to set up?  I am used to the edminstons circular dial along with a verticle type from a Lane.  Any thoughts are appreciated so I can think about how I could make something thats easy to read.

Thanks Ron for the help and will post pictures as i get them available.

Ron Wenrich

We had one that was a yardstick on a board.  Attach a small cable to the headblock and a few pulleys, then put a bar over top the board to give an indication what the distance is from headblock to saw.  You need to put something to keep the bar steady, so it doesn't move side to side.  A slotted board works.  Put the bar in the slots.

A lot of those Fricks used to have a gauge that was on the headblock. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

NMFP

Yes, this one has each headblock marked with a ruler and a pointer.  I think that would be rather difficult to see as you were sawing.  I guess as long as the setworks has the starting point attached to the back of the headblocks, the shape of the setworks read out wouldnt matter as long as its accurate.

Thanks and greatly appreciate the help, especially Ron with all of his experience and knowledge.

bandmiller2

You don't need to read the yardstick and pointer every board.Your setworks quadrant should have a number of holes for a pin just pull it over to the stop and whatever thickness you chose.The scale is handy when you make your last slab cut so the last board will come out right.I keep a clip board at my station to figure number of boards plus kerf. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

NMFP

What are your thoughts on building the ways?  My thought was to use pressure treated 6x6 posts, in the ground 4-5' with 2x6 or 2x8 stringers bolted to each side of the posts.  I would then use pressure treated 4x4's for the cross ways like a rail road track and then use 4x6 pressure treated for the ways where I would then attach the steel track.  My plan was to kiln dry the pressure treated lumber so that I could minimize the dimensional changes after the assembly.

Any thoughts other than it will be expensive but my thought is that if I spend the money now, It will last me the rest of my life.

Thanks,
NMFP

york

On my setup,each section of trackway was 15' long-was made out of all 4by4 SYP treated the cross pieces were morticed into the side pieces-they had ready rod going side of each cross piece-then topped with 8# track-i had the piers 5ft on center-you need a way to adjust for up and down and side to side...If i was to do it again,it would be on concrete,had trouble with movement-the wood trackway was ok.....bert
Albert

NMFP

York:

Do you still have your mill?  If so, could I possibly come and look at your set up and take any recomendations that you can offer?  I want to be able to make adjustments as necessary however, I dont want to have to constantly align things.  I would prefer to have more time sawing instead of maintenance if possible.

Thanks and I greatly appreciate your comments and suggestions.

NMFP

york

No,sold the mill about 15 yrs ago,to a guy who works for Wagner lumber and he set it up on concrete,then later went to steel for the carriage,i now have a bandmill.bert
Albert

NMFP

Thanks York.    I have been around mills my entire life and everytime I visit another one, I seem to find something a little different or something that I hadent thought of before.  I guess we are never to old to learn something new or a little different than what we are used to.


bandmiller2

NMFP,I lucked out when I was setting up my Chase mill.The power co. replaced the cross arms on the high tension lines and left them in a big pile.Some of the best Douglas fir I've seen,trued them up on a mizer LT-70 they are 4x8"and stained them with cabots deck stain.I set sections of phone poles about 4' in the ground notched the top for a 4x6" cross piece bolted, and the way timbers set on top.Around the husk and on the log turning end posts 4' offbearers end 6' apart. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Ron Wenrich

There sure seems to be a lot of old trailers sitting around.  Get that floor on a stable foundation and it won't go out of line for you.  Here's one over in Centre county.



To get the sun off of it, he did this:




01 Frick.  It was done like this to take it to another location.  The track was put on metal.  My track is on metal 4x8 tubing.  Most of the metal tracks I've seen have been put on 4x4 tube.  I believe you could also do it on I beams.  Do it in sections.  I had a wooden track that was done in 10' sections.  Metal can be done just the same.  That way you can make some adjustment, if necessary.  Also, the track is easier to move or replace if you have to.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

york

What Ron just posted,is a good idea-looked at a 00Frick on a trailer,in pa,years ago,had no way to move it,so passed on it...
    Set up on a solid deck,eliminates one of the circle mill problems,reciprocating weight,the carriage,with a big log moving back and forth,each line,really is though on wood piers...bert
Albert

bandmiller2

Before I set up my first circular mill I did alot of mill bumming that is traveling to different mills and watching.I learned what to do and what not to do.Sawyers are inovative rascals and have some clever lashups.I incorperated the best ideas in my mill.Flow of material and comfy working hight are right at the top of the list. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

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