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Dyno database?

Started by firtol88, April 19, 2004, 11:05:40 AM

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firtol88

Alrighty I'm really wonderin if anyone has a stock saw dyno database only real mention of one that I can find is at http://www.madsens1.com/dyno.htm they list it as comming soon on some saws http://www.madsens1.com/husk357XP.htm...

Are they the only ones? I sure can't find anyone else... I think getting a real idea of where the power band lies (and it's characteristics) would help me determine if I should go Pro, XP or PPXP.

From my reading so far it looks like a 357XP with an 18" or 20"? bar would be the ideal all around saw (kinda wondering about balance with an 18" 3/8 and 20" 3/8 ) or maybe a PP346xp with a 16 or 18 (not sure about chain width) :-/




There's men who drink Guinness, and there's men who drink what's left when we're done with it.

* Note to Democrats, yes please flee to Canada!

Rocky_J

The big variable here is your skill level, which cannot be determined on a dyno. How are your sharpening skills? This is another variable which will make a huge difference in performance of your saws. Most midrange saws from the major manufacturers will do anything any homeowner needs without any problems. But most buyers will be unable to tap the potential in their saw, and most usually end up blaming the saw for being a 'POS' when the air and fuel filters are clogged and the carb is out of adjustment and the chain hasn't been sharpened and the saw barely runs and won't cut warm butter.

Buy a decent saw in your price range and learn how to get the most out of it. Every minute you spend practicing your chain filing will return you with more performance from your saws.  :)

firtol88

I'd say I'm beter off than some but far from a pro.

I ran saws as a kid felling and cutting firewood for my parents, and some neighbors if my father felt like doing people favors... he being from the "kids equal free labor" and "make them earn their keep" schools (something I wish more people believed in, from some of the people I meet)

I spent 2 summers in college running saws, but it's been a while so I will make no claims. As for my sharpening technique I'm sure it needs work but is probably better than some.

Basically I live in the city but have a larger than average lot, I also have a fair chunk out in the country with the hopes that my kids and their kids will get to see what a tree looks like  :o  around here they clear cut everything they get a chance to...  ::) still don't get that :-/. I just need a saw to do some thining, trail clearing and such in the country along with firewood and odd stuff around the yard (lotta live oaks and pecans i.e. they like to drop limbs). My inlaws have a big chunk of their own and keep asking me to do some trail work, but the old (early 80s) craftsman saw (like 30cc?) they have is a bit challenged even when it does start.

Could I pay someone to take care of these things? Guess so but I'd rather take care of them myself I'm kinda funny that way ;D.
There's men who drink Guinness, and there's men who drink what's left when we're done with it.

* Note to Democrats, yes please flee to Canada!

Rocky_J

Well cool! I feel much better giving chainsaw advice to someone who is familiar with how to use and maintain one.  8)

for trail work or general clearing, I prefer a lighter saw. The 346XP is a sweet machine and should pull a .325, 18" just fine. If you are going to use it more for firewood and chunking up logs, you may prefer the extra power (and weight) of the 357XP. That saw should pull a 3/8, 20" easily.

As a side note- I got my PP346XP stuck today while cutting up a felled tree. I stupidly got it pinched while attempting to cut off a weight bearing side lead. THEN I stuck a wedge in the cut and gave it a smack ::), the saw fell out and then the tree fell down right on top of it. I figured it was trashed.  :'(  By the time we got the trunk cut up enough to uncover my poor saw, I pulled it out and it looked slightly bent (arched?) but I didn't see any major damage. After work I took it apart and the bar and top handle were bent, nothing else was damaged!   ;D I put another bar on it and it's ready for work tomorrow!  :)

oldsaw-addict

Rocky J, you musta been pretty lucky to only have abent handle and bar. I would have expected a much worse case scenario to have been the case, like a totally crushed saw or maybe crushed truck :D

My chain sharpening skills are fairly good, not perfect but fairly good. I can sharpen a chain with all angles being consistant, the cutters all being equal length, and the right side plate hook where applicable. this is with a round file and a little file holder with the angle marks stamped into it, and a flat file for the depth gauges. I'm by NO means perfect at chain filing but I do a pretty good job, the chains always cut well and hold an edge for a decent length of time after I sharpen the chains so I must be doing pretty well.

I'll take a 346XP or 357XP model over a little crappy craftsman ANY day, but I'd rather have my BIG high HP saws for what I do every day. The rules of my rule book written in my head by me say, "if the saw cant do the job, get a BIGGER SAW!" :D :D :D :D It may not be true in EVERY case but the rule applies almost everywhere, now if my big 450 would just run for me.... I could have a really cool milling saw.
Let there be saws for all mankind!

Stan

QuoteI ran saws as a kid felling and cutting firewood for my parents, and some neighbors if my father felt like doing people favors... he being from the "kids equal free labor" and "make them earn their keep" schools (something I wish more people believed in, from some of the people I meet)

.

I see my dad went to school with your's, but I DanGed sure didn't work for free. I charged $5.00 a week. I needed $1.50 for hot lunch at school, and the other I usually wasted on gas for my '48 Mercury Convertable.  8) 8) 8)
I may have been born on a turnip truck, but I didn't just fall off.

oldsaw

So good that I have two of them. :D  You've got some power when you need it, but don't have a monster when you just have to tame some limbs.  Put a 16" bar for most all-around work, or an 18-20 if you really have a need.  I would still get it with a 16 and maybe put a 20" off to the side for when it was needed.  I really hate carrying too much bar when I don't have to, but I'm really comfortable with a 20"...still, you would have to pry a 16" out of my hands for everyday use.
So many trees, so little money, even less time.

Stihl 066, Husky 262, Husky 350 (warmed over), Homelite Super XL, Homelite 150A

woodsie

i love my husqy 55 rancher, its heavy duty and can perform day and day out ( w/an 18"-20" bar).  
it's good to run once in a while, you never know when you'll need to for real...

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