Anybody use green grease?
the description makes it looks like it can do everything.
I am looking for the best for my mill , wheel bearings and my atv which spends quite a lot of time in the water and in mud
I have used the cheap stuff and just had to do the bushings on my atv and wonder if it is detrimental to the mill and my other equipment, tractor, rtv etc
Everyone's going to like something different... Like ford and Chevy...
I like red moly my self.
Man we just had a thread turn into this lol I cant remember where tho. I use Schaeffer's 238 moly supreme on my pins that stuff can not be beat for that. Everything else I been using either the mobile delvac or the lucas red n tacky.
I remember part of that post!
In it I believe MagicMan recommended NLGI #2 grease!
I think it was mentioned that it would withstand high pressure, high heat, and high speed!
Quote from: 4x4American on January 25, 2018, 07:47:01 PM
Man we just had a thread turn into this lol I cant remember where tho. I use Schaeffer's 238 moly supreme on my pins that stuff can not be beat for that. Everything else I been using either the mobile delvac or the lucas red n tacky.
http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,97721.msg1509037.html#msg1509037
This one?, Nope not that one ::)
http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,99260.msg1535287.html#msg1535287
This one
D
I have been using a lithium base grease, find it expensive but also find that i have few breakdowns using it. Have been using it several years on my farm equipment. It is recommended for my sickle mower.
Grease is grease: which is to say that cheap grease often beats good grease seldom. Particularly when the application is either as a cushion (hitch pins, suspension bushings etc) or where it has to also function as a seal to keep moisture/ dirt out.(automotive ball joints etc).
I use whatever mid price moly I can get on special in those types of application.
Bearings I use a proper bearing grease like mobil temp#2.
If its something that needs good grease because I won't be back in their until it fails I use Mobilith SHC460... extreme temp and pressure resistance and sticks like nothing else I've ever found. But too much$ for things like ball joints.
At the extreme ends there are graphite greases and process greases. But grease is like oil in that its not just grease - there is an inverse relationship between the speed(viscosity) of grease and the cushion or "stick" of grease. So: a grease suitable for electrical motors is not the grease suitable for a shaft bearing on a 25000 HP fuel oil engine.
But for general applications like your quad bike... grease is grease.
Quote from: longtime lurker on January 26, 2018, 03:11:39 AM
But for general applications like your quad bike... grease is grease.
Grease is grease but the soap that hold it together is different...
I've come to realize that greasing more often is better than greasing "with better".
Got a 20V Dewalt grease gun, now that Red-n_tacky flies as often as possible. I think I'm even exceeding the recommended intervals! 8)
I use Red n tacky in the summer and some black grease in the winter. Does anyone else change grease with the seasons?Bob
Well, the Red & Tacky doesn't pump well when it's cold. so unless you keep the gun on the floorboard under the heater, you need to use something else. Most synthetic greases fill this need, but at a higher cost. It is a trade off.
Just remember NLGI 2
Red tacky for me.
Quote from: PA_Walnut on January 26, 2018, 06:28:39 AM
I've come to realize that greasing more often is better than greasing "with better".
When I was a kid just outta highschool driving log truck, I asked an oldtimer what was the best grease??, he said "The stuff in the kingpins and tie rod ends and slack adjusters is much better than the stuff in the grease gun" ;D ;D
Any grease is better than no grease at all. I've seen some excavators that come with a self lube system built in. Sending controlled amounts of grease from a tank through pressurized lines to the bushings. I had an old JD 310A backhoe, (well worn before I got it), that you could rock the digger bucket side to side because of loose wrist pin bushings.
Elbow
Bacon
When I built the sawmill that I operate, bearing heat was a big problem because the center of the saw would warm about 5 degrees and throw it off. First off I was using too much grease and too heavy a grease. Went thru 3 lubrication salesmen, all a waste of time. Now too much grease heats a bearing; one day I pried the seals off a new Timkin/fafner sealed, non relub ball bearing and found it FULL of blue grease. This special grease they sell and it will reduce the bearing temperature. this can be the difference between sawing and not sawing. The gravity rolls that go to my lumber separator must have thin grease in winter. After rebuilding my Prentiss loader I have only used L.E. synthetic grease. On simple ,slow moving or loose joints I will use common # 2 grease.
for outdoor equipment a good water resistant grease works well. I use Amsoil Synthetic water resistance grease in everything I own including wheel bearings. It cost a little more but you will use less of a quality product. Synthetic oils and greases work better in cold and hot conditions.
Grease does not lubricate it is the oil that is held in suspension that does. If you over grease you do not give the oil a chance to work.
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/grease/synthetic-water-resistant-grease/
I now have the dewalt 20 v gun and am trying lucas redn tacky and green grease.
We'll see what happens
the green grease is really sticky
Also found a torn boot.
Quote from: PA_Walnut on January 26, 2018, 06:28:39 AM
I've come to realize that greasing more often is better than greasing "with better".
Got a 20V Dewalt grease gun, now that Red-n_tacky flies as often as possible.
I bought the 18v version because it matches the rest of my tools.
I go through way more grease than I used to.
You get what you pay for and, grease is not just grease.
Be sure you use a bearing grease when greasing bearings ( lb). You may have a grease that is both lb and gc (chassis). If this is what you have be sure that it doesn't have moly in it if you are using it in a high speed bearing application. Moly creates heat = bad for bearings.
Gc is important to be used for pin or pivot grease points as it is designed to stay put and keep contaminants out.
Nlgi 1 or 2 basically tells you one is lighter or thicker than the other. Kind of like 10/30 vs 5/30 engine oil.
Hopefully this helps...
Used the gun a little yesterday on my Kubota RTV.
Works good except I had 2 fittings that try as I might wouldnt take grease.
Took the zerks out and made sure they were OK and heated the joints up pretty good but still no dice.
Sprayed the joints with some kroil.
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on April 13, 2018, 08:57:45 AM
Works good except I had 2 fittings that try as I might wouldnt take grease.
Took the zerks out and made sure they were OK and heated the joints up pretty good but still no dice.
Sprayed the joints with some kroil.
If none of that works get one of these
IPA's Grease Joint Rejuvenator - Clean Clogged Grease Joints - YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7aoQC81aQg)
Tractor Supply has them - never had a joint that I couldn't get to take grease..
Yep... Called a grease hammer... You should always have one around the farm...
I'm goin' t' get one. 8)
I am with the any that gets used is better than any that is still in the tube crowd. You want to avoid the real cheap stuff and the high end is best at emptying your wallet. I like the red tacky grease sold at the farm stores for about $3 a tube. For stuff like your ATV, boat trailers and stuff that sees a lot of water you should be using a grease made just for that service but it isn't needed anywhere on your mill.
I have a GREASE HAMMER (SIC) cant find it right now but will look further and try it
Just ordered the IPA master kit off of amazon. thanks jason.weir.
Woo Hoo catch up on my greasing projects
A lot of the fittings on my equipment are located where you cant swing a hammer, including one of the above mentioned.
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on April 14, 2018, 07:56:11 AM
A lot of the fittings on my equipment are located where you cant swing a hammer, including one of the above mentioned.
You can add a hose extension .
Back in the mid 70's a salesman came by the mill and convinced the boss to try a new lithium based grease in some high speed bearings. So the machine chosen was an old belt driven 4 headed planer with an 8"x18" capacity. Within a week, all the grease in those high speed bearings had liquified and ran out leaving the bearings dry. I don't remember what grease we had been using before the introduction of the new. But be careful when it comes to mixing grease and trying something new. Some greases are incompatible.
Quote from: petefrom bearswamp on April 14, 2018, 07:56:11 AM
A lot of the fittings on my equipment are located where you cant swing a hammer, including one of the above mentioned.
Way back (83-86) when I was on the US Navy's Submarine Performance Monitoring Team (PMT) down in Kingsbay, we had similar problems with blocked grease lines - most of the time on a much grander scale. A young Machinist Mate Chief by the name of Ronnie VanDiver (at the Charleston PMT) came up with the idea of using a Porta Power filled with ATF to clear the blocked fittings and lines. What we did was modify a Porta Power (cheap porta power pump) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MYY9DD2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01MYY9DD2&pd_rd_wg=bdH0A&pd_rd_r=HAAZME16R59RADBJEE0N&pd_rd_w=uGXVp) by installing a 0-4000 PSI gauge on the outlet side and adapt the hose to fit onto the standard grease fitting.
Once we had it hooked up to a blocked line, we would pump it up to about 3000PSI and let it sit. Sometimes it cleared right away and MANY other times it took several days and tries. By try, I mean the pressure would bleed off as the grease softened and we needed to pump it back up. With some of these blocked lines being very long, it would take many tries over several days. An example of some very long lines, would be the ones that ran from inside the Torpedo Room all the way out the the muzzle doors. After the grease softened, we would pump some ATF thru the line to clear it and then pump a BUNCH of MIL-G-24139 grease thru it. Can't believe I remember that number after all these years. ::) ::)