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Dremel Tool Sharpener???

Started by Woodhog, May 19, 2005, 08:34:19 PM

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Woodhog

 ???
Has anyone tried this Dremel Tool  chainsaw sharpening attachment...

http://www.dremel.com/productdisplay/Display.asp?SKU=1453

I am trying to justify purchasing the tool and if it will sharpen my chains all the better,
it would probably do a good job on the rakers and eliminate those expensive flat files...
but sort of skeptical about its chain sharpening albility...



Thanks

beenthere

I can't speak for what it will do for you, but I went that route many years ago, and find that my best results are the round file, period (but with a good comfortable handle).

The grinding tool you have will quickly take off steel, cause heat, change the angle too quickly to react, go too deep too fast, and at least for me, wear out the chain quickly with only marginal results for sharpness. That is what it does for me. If I was perfectly steady, could give it just the right gentle 'touch', be accurate on the angle and depth of the bite -it might work for me.  But I'm just not that good.

I clamp the saw bar in a vice, mark a tooth, and start carefully filling one tooth at a time, with one or two strokes (depends on how it sounds) with a sharp file (throw them away after a dozen filings) and my body behind the push, and always checking the angle (I plant my feet and shoulders, and don't move about until one complete time around the chain is done). I then switch it in the vise, and do the other side.  I watch the depth so I don't get too much 'beak' on the top edge, and so I don't get too high and flatten the face of the tooth.

I find that sharpening a little bit after each tank of gas (in the woods on a stump if necessary), that I rarely have to take off anything on the rakers. That they wear down at almost the right amount as I proceed through the chain. I check the rakers about every 5 or 6 sharpenings, and hardly ever get the sharp flat file (expensive?) to file any metal off the rakers. I probably have sharpened 25-30 chains that way. I always run two chains, alternating between them and flipping the bar over when I change from one chain to the next. When I wear out two chains, I replace them along with the sprocket.

I'm not 100% like that with all chains, because if I hit metal, fence wire, insulators, rock in the snow, or something, I tear up a chain and take it to the saw shop for the 'grinder' routine. At least all the teeth are the same length and the same angle, and past the damage. It has never been as good as a hand filing job, however.

But, at the same time, I enjoy sharpening my chains, and especially enjoy the way they cut wood when they are sharp.  :)
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

slowzuki

I bought just some burrs to use free hand in the dremel.  I find them great when you damage a chain and need to sharpen a lot.

I think I should get a new file, I'm on my 3rd chain with the same file ;D

Dan_Shade

i have used the dremel doohickey.  I prefer a file, the dremel cuts pretty quick and it's tough to keep the stone the proper height to get the right angles...
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

rebocardo

It is a lousy gimmick that does not work properly. I used it about two times before I quit using it. Its' remains are around here somewhere ...  It sounds great, until you actually try to use it. The Granberg setup for $24 was much better for manual filing.


lamar

I dont get it Ive had mine for many years and have wore out at least one motor.Before the band mill I cut only with alaska mill with a 42" bar.I use a strong pair of cheaters to get close to tooth Im on. This way you can see the cutting edge of tooth.I get more life out of a chain than hand fileing.Its also much faster and a fine ground finish.Also You go down one side and back up the other side.You need to watch how the plate is laying on the tooth.

mike_van

I agree with lamar, I had one years ago & it worked fine. I've since gone to an Efco bench model grinder. Years ago I saw magnified photos of tooth edges both ground & filed, the filed ones looked like the  Himalayas [high points would wear right off] where as the smoother ground ones would wear more slowly, lasting longer.  Make any sence?  Sometimes though, it's whatever works best for you - Years ago an older man here sharpened Skilsaw blades for people [before carbide took over] with nothing but a file. He was always busy, his finished blades cut like new.
I was the smartest 16 year old I ever knew.

Ironwood

I prefer filing by hand, I do toss alot of files as they dull and effiecency drops. Just my 2 cent

                          REID
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

davefrommd

I use a dremmel with the proper stone and am pleased with the results. It works fine for me.  That dremmel kit for chainsaws I have one and don't like the guide on it.  I also have the oregon 12 volt chain sharpener and that works fine for me.  I've used the hand files and those other contraptions you clamp to the bar and found it best for me to use the dremmel. dave

Al_Smith

I have the Oregon 12 volt model,myself.The only time I use it is for rocked chains.I freehand file,as a normal rule,my chains and buy several dozen files a year.

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