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Author Topic: log tenon cutters  (Read 6145 times)

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Offline isawlogs

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #20 on: December 28, 2015, 08:30:22 AM »
 Before the mag drills, those where arm and wrist breakers...  :-\ 
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #21 on: December 28, 2015, 09:12:44 AM »
Before the mag drills, those where arm and wrist breakers...  :-\

Yea... Gotta Mag drill but it's not stickin to good on my wood products.

 

 
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Offline LittleJohn

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #22 on: December 28, 2015, 09:41:55 AM »
...pros and cons. the commercial series with the flat blade takes much less power to turn. It leaves a rough tenon. The home series with radius shoulders, with knotty cedar requires removal of some materials to get them to work well.

Holding the log is another thing to consider. Piston had an amazing setup. I started using a pipe vise. Worked great but limited by size. It required padding to keep from biting big marks in the wood. I now use a big metal vise bolted on a heavy metal table. I will be happy to help you with any questions.

I have the Veritas 1" and 1.5" Radius tenon cutter, cut only cedar (occassional white birch for Wifes craft projects).  They work good, but can be difficult to start unless you have a perfectly round log/stick to start with or you like to widdle a good starting chamfer.  The 1.5" (Big Boy, in my house) has to be coupled to a mightly big drill, I run a Dewalt DW130V 1/2" Spade Handle Drill; for the 1" cutter I can sometimes cheat and use a 18v cordless drill (just make sure not to over-rotate or spin too fast) as the cutters are not balanced very well.

...also the cutting blades on the radius tenon cutter can be quite tricky to sharpen, not that sharpening flat blades are easy either (one of the skill sets that I struggle with)

Offline isawlogs

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #23 on: December 28, 2015, 10:10:15 AM »
  Not too good on wood, but ya can always strap um down....  ;D   I have one of those beast of a drill here also, I don't really know why I keep it around, I stopped usint it after it bit my wrist a few decades ago!    >:( >:(   hurt_smiley
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

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Offline dboyt

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #24 on: December 28, 2015, 12:08:31 PM »
I use a "Cylinder Mill" jig for my table saw.  I've only had it a short time, but it did a great job turning a new 5' handle for my cant hook (Osage orange).  It has several advantages.  It lines up the ends of the log so that the tenons are perfectly aligned, allows either square or rounded shoulders, and will cut tapered tenons, if you want.  I'm looking forward to using it more.
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #25 on: December 28, 2015, 03:34:26 PM »
Cutter on the lathe.

 

 
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #26 on: December 28, 2015, 04:43:27 PM »
I use a "Cylinder Mill" jig for my table saw.  I've only had it a short time, but it did a great job turning a new 5' handle for my cant hook (Osage orange).  It has several advantages.  It lines up the ends of the log so that the tenons are perfectly aligned, allows either square or rounded shoulders, and will cut tapered tenons, if you want.  I'm looking forward to using it more.

I had to look that one up...
Thats one neat tool...
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Offline valley ranch

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #27 on: December 28, 2015, 07:09:38 PM »
 yukon cornelius, Thanks for posting that about the metal case drills. I have saws, drills and such, the insulation not in that good condition, never gave it a thought.

Richard

Offline DMcCoy

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #28 on: December 28, 2015, 07:28:22 PM »
This is the only experience I have with making tenons and doubt if it counts. ;D
 

 (Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

A small cushion would make a great accessory. You could call it a stool softener.

Offline Kbeitz

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #29 on: December 28, 2015, 07:55:50 PM »
yukon cornelius, Thanks for posting that about the metal case drills. I have saws, drills and such, the insulation not in that good condition, never gave it a thought.

Richard

You should be safe if your cord has the grounding prong on the plug and if your outlets are grounded.
At my sawmill or any place I have a receptacle out side I alway run an extra ground rod.
If the short has a place to go your should be safe. Best to have a  GFI.
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Offline KirkD

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #30 on: December 28, 2015, 08:39:29 PM »
I use a "Cylinder Mill" jig for my table saw.  I've only had it a short time, but it did a great job turning a new 5' handle for my cant hook (Osage orange).  It has several advantages.  It lines up the ends of the log so that the tenons are perfectly aligned, allows either square or rounded shoulders, and will cut tapered tenons, if you want.  I'm looking forward to using it more.

I had to look that one up...
Thats one neat tool...

And easy enough to build.
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Offline Fundyheather

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #31 on: December 28, 2015, 10:27:14 PM »
Method 1:

Picture a dado cutter in a dedicated junk table saw, having a taper ended steel spike finger protruding directly and horizontally over top and forward of the running dado cutter.  The spike finger assembly is bolted to the table behind the dado cutter.  The spike finger is attached to this assembly with a hinge in such a way that the spike can pivot upwards from horizontal, but not at all downwards below horizontal.  A small counter weight (or a tight hinge) lightly keeps the finger raised up from horizontal toward 45 degrees.  The radius of the finished tenon equals the distance between the center of the spike finger and the top of the dado cutter, so tenon radius is adjustable at the table saw, and the tenon length is adjusted depending on the length of wood fed forward.

Now drill a hole in the end of a stick of wood, hole being the depth of the spike finger and slightly bigger than the diameter of the spike.

Gently feed the wood down into the spike at about 45 degrees until the wood contacts the dado cutter.  Slowly rotate the wood as you also decline the wood toward horizontal, cutting a big finished tenon with tapered shoulders in one go (with not insignificant personal danger.)

Method 2:

In something big, say a fence rail held projecting off a work table, freehand bore into the center end with say a 2" or 3" hollow auger.  Let the restraints off the fence rail and chatter in towards the base of the hollow auger hole with a small chainsaw, in such a way that the chainsaw is kind of rotating the fence rail for you until a donut of wood can be removed to expose your tenon.  Flare the tenon shoulders back with the saw if you want.  Then use a matching sized big forstner type bit to cut the tenon hole in your fencepost say, drive it all home and pin it.  Best if your fence rails are kind of dry so they will swell into the damp posts.

Good luck, I hope you can afford better equipment so it never has to come down to this.

jim

   

Offline yukon cornelius

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #32 on: December 28, 2015, 11:06:28 PM »
yukon cornelius, Thanks for posting that about the metal case drills. I have saws, drills and such, the insulation not in that good condition, never gave it a thought.

Richard

Your welcome. If it is well grounded you should be fine but if you make a better ground than the ground as in a slightly worn receptical or plug or a wire that has began to break inside the sheath or you have sweaty hands or if your ground rod gets dry around it or just not well grounded. After the accident I decided I would pass it on to everyone I can. It might not be you but a loved one that gets the bad end.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

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Offline Downstream

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #33 on: December 31, 2015, 03:49:01 PM »
i went through the same thoughts a few months ago wanting to make tenon joints but not wanting to spend a bunch of money on the cutters for every diameter.  I found a video online showing a guy with a simple jig that mounts to a router table.  the jig has a quarter inch shaft(i used long bolt with head cut off) sticking out over hanging the router bit.  you drill a  hole in the end of the piece you want to cut the tenon into that matches the shaft diameter.  you adjust the height of the router bit to the center line of the shaft in the jig to make any diameter tenon you want.  you slowly rotate the piece in your hand as you push it onto the shaft and it cuts a nice tenon to whatever depth or diameter you want.  the type of router bit profile determines shape of transition from tenon to dull diameter log.  I always start out slightly larger than required finished diameter so i can fine tune for the tightest fit by bringing up the router with it's fine tuning adjustment.  im still improving the method but have made some nice benches using 2" tenon size.   I will take a photo of my set-up later and attach if anyone is interested.
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #34 on: December 31, 2015, 04:36:55 PM »
Antique tenon cutters was adjustable to different sizes.
They show up on ebay from time to time.
I have a few...

 

 

 

 
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Offline tmarch

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #35 on: January 01, 2016, 04:07:00 PM »
Seeing the tenon cutter on the lathe got me to thinking ???  I have a Shopsmith, and I'm thinking using clamps to hold the log and use the boring feed to cut the tenon.  Thinking it would be easier to control the cut that way.
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Offline Kbeitz

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #36 on: January 01, 2016, 05:59:16 PM »
I dont have it finished yet but I'm going to make a sliding clamp that fits
in the long slot on my lathe bed. it will look something like this.
The log will go between the two rails of steel that will be kinda V shaped.

 

 
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Offline Fundyheather

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #37 on: January 01, 2016, 08:03:01 PM »
Pawed around in the basement to find my old tenon rig.  Bolts down onto a table saw mounting a dado cutter. Cut a guide hole in your stock to match the 'finger.'  Come down into the dado at about 45 degrees while slowly spinning the stock, declining to horizontal and feeding forward into the dado as you go.  Must have upwards of $5 invested here.   





Offline beenthere

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #38 on: January 02, 2016, 12:30:46 AM »
A bit more about how it works and makes a tenon. Appears to be a stove pipe connected to it, and a stone to hold it up.  Are there better shots of what it does and what the guide hole is?
Sounds clever, but just not seeing it...
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Offline isawlogs

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Re: log tenon cutters
« Reply #39 on: January 02, 2016, 09:28:31 AM »
 Beenthere.... the pipe is connected to his stove, the patio stone is on the stove, the tenon cutter is on the patio stone resting on a stone. I would also like to see it set up!!!
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel


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