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LT40 extra bed section

Started by Billikenfan, December 03, 2016, 02:05:41 PM

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Billikenfan

I have a 2015 LT40 hydraulic.  I found a 1990 LT40 manual for sale.  The head had the bearing go out and it's missing the engine.  Basically just a parts machine.  How hard would it be to hook thst bed section to mine?  Is it just a bolt up or do I have to fab something?  I'm assuming being a manual is fine I'll just need to get some clamps.  Thanks for the info.

Scott
2015 Woodmizer LT40  Hydraulic 35hp
Mountain Home Firewood Kiln. Beaver Wood Eater Firewood Processer.  John Deere 260 Skid Steer.

paul case

It looks like to me it would take some serious fab work. The WM bed extensions have alignment pins in the track rods. I think it can be done. Also it may need to be shortened or have some extra bunks added.

Sounds interesting.

Let us know how it turns out.
PC
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

GAB

Billikenfan:
Using an LT40 manual bed as an extension should be doable.
As Paul said you will need to drill the track rods for alignment pins.  For your information somewheres on the forum there is a thread on how one individual did this using a home built fixture.
You will need the piece and hardware used to connect an extension bed to the mill.
You may also need to cut an access opening in the extension to be able to assemble the two together.  Such an access exists on my extension bed.
Since the mill bed you are planing on using is from a manual mill then the clamp assembly should be there for clamping the far end of the log.
Mr. Case's comment about adding bunks needs to be seriously considered.  The thinner you plan on cutting the more critical it will be.
I have the literature on how to assemble the 6 foot extension bed to my LT40.  If you desire a copy of this literature I think I could have it loaded into an email and then forward to you, however it would take me a few days to get'er done.
Gerald


W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

Dave Shepard

You could probably use the WM kit for early BX connections, but it's not very good. You'll have to drill the rods, as mentioned, cut off the stop and anything else that sticks out, cut a hole to tighten the bolt on the new style connector, and make a brace from channel iron. I don't know if there are any clear pics of mine in my gallery.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Dave Shepard

I found a pic of the support just before it was bolted together. You can also see the extra bed section and leg. All can be bought from WM, but make sure it will fit the old style mill.



 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Andries

Quote from: paul case on December 03, 2016, 02:23:00 PM
. . . .  The WM bed extensions have alignment pins in the track rods. I think it can be done. . ...
Drilling alignment holes isn't too big a chore.
Once you've made up or borrowed one of these:

My mill is an LT30, but it's prolly the same size as a LT40's rail. Forumites have been known to mail their's out on loan.  ;)

Drilling is the easy part.  ;D
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Andries

Quote from: GAB on December 03, 2016, 03:37:08 PM
Billikenfan:
. . . . .   Since the mill bed you are planing on using is from a manual mill then the clamp assembly should be there for clamping the far end of the log.
Mr. Case's comment about adding bunks needs to be seriously considered.  The thinner you plan on cutting the more critical it will be. . . .
Gerald
A few details to think about:
* A good level base that won't shift on you.
* Placing bunks and your manual clamps where they'll support and lock down the logs. You can shorten the front end of the old parts mill, to get the supports closer together.

Sawing long logs is great, but keeping up with the alignment on that extra real estate is important.

LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: Andries on December 03, 2016, 05:27:19 PM
Forumites have been known to mail their's out on loan.  ;)

Sounds like an offer to me...I'd take him up in it. :)
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Billikenfan

Thanks for all the help.  My next question he's asking 2k for the mill.  Worth doing or just buy new.  I don't have to have the extra bed. I would just like one.

Scott
2015 Woodmizer LT40  Hydraulic 35hp
Mountain Home Firewood Kiln. Beaver Wood Eater Firewood Processer.  John Deere 260 Skid Steer.

VictorH

Are main frames of a 2015 mill and the 1990 the same?  I may be wrong but didn't they change the main beam size in the mid 90's?

scully

Quote from: VictorH on December 03, 2016, 10:26:38 PM
Are main frames of a 2015 mill and the 1990 the same?  I may be wrong but didn't they change the main beam size in the mid 90's?
If I'm not mistaken they just beefed up the diagonal bracing . I think the main beam has always been the same size .
I bleed orange  .

Dave Shepard

Beams are these same, as far as I know. I know of a '99 that was using a mid '80's BX. A new BX 24 is $5,000.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

prittgers

At one time WM changed their welding process.  The early tubes were held in a jig that positioned the cold rolled rods in place and then welded them to the face of the tube.  During this period you had to order the extension when you bought your mill so that both could be made from the same steel tube stock.

With the variation in the tubes, someone thought it made more sense to position the steel rods in the fixture and then weld them to the tubing in place regardless of the distance to the tube.  Tube dimensions became a lot less critical.  The result is that the tube assemblies made in this manner are interchangeable since the rods are all the same distance from each other. 

You may be able to measure both mills tubes and compare.

I'm not sure when this change happened.  Can one of the WM guys help?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Patg6oy2JG0 shows some of the welding procedures.   

 
Parker Rittgers
Professional Sawyer, Retired, well, not really !
WoodMizer Alaska | 907.360.2497 cell 336.5143 office BevelSider.com ? Everything BevelSider
907.336.5143
prittgers@aksamill.com

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