My "new" trailer

[kelLOGg]

I just bought this 1983 Cartey Bilt trailer (made in Georgia) off Craigslist for $450 and want FFers opinions on it.



The wood deck and sides were rotting so I removed all wood. The frame is made from 2 x 6 channel iron so is quite substantial but the cross members are 1.25 x 3 channel placed 27" apart which I thought was a little light weight for a 4 ton gross wt trailer. (I will never put 4T on it because my towing capacity is only 5000 lb.) Should I add more cross members anyway while I have it stripped down? It has 3 inch mobile home axles (does this make it a 7000 lb axle?) and wheels and trailer brakes. I've never seen brakes like these. When the brake pedal is pushed an electromagnet locks to the drum and actuates one brake shoe when driving forward and another shoe when going backward. They look like just enough brake to get a mobile home to its foundation. Am I looking at eventually replacing the axles/drums/wheels/brakes to make it road worthy? My operation is more of a serious hobby that pays for itself plus some rather than making a living so the trailer will not get frequent or heavy use. My limited towing capacity means I may haul a little a one log at a time and that is OK. I will load via parbuckling up ramps with a gas winch.

The stake holes are 4" channel so I will secure logs with steel stakes, chocks, chains and load binders. I'm pretty excited about adding this capability to my operation. Your comments are welcome.

Bob

[bandmiller2]

Bob,for what your doing some good oak deck should be strong enough.What I would do is build a strong headboard in the front with a strong hookup for a comealong or winch.Make a upside down square U that will pivot on the sides and extend just over the back when down,attach it to a log and pull it up and over.It will lift and load the log over the fantail.Its handy to have tiedowns on the deck ,truck spring U bolts with a bar welded to the bottom so it will drop flush with the deck when not needed.Frank C.

[Magicman]

but the cross members are 1.25 x 3 channel placed 27" apart which I thought was a little light weight
Bob 

If you feel that this is a concern, just reinforce about half of them with additional angle or channel iron.  You could do more, but now is the time while it is stripped.

Seems like you did OK....

[scsmith42]

Bob, I think that you got an good deal on that trailer, and it should work very well for your needs.    FrankC provides some great advice below, as does Magicman.

As far as reinforcing is concerned, typically when I load logs onto a trailer I am putting some cribbing on the deck first. This allows me to fork the logs on and off, or if I am parbuckling the cribbing makes it easier to roll the log.

The cribbing will distribute the load across the wood deck, which adds to the strength of the crossmember.

There are a couple of different ways that you can go with the trailer.  You can add oak deck boards, which will be durable and distribute the load, and also help make the trailer "all purpose.  Assuming that your deck is 6' wide and 14' long (can't tell from the photo), the dry 6/4 oak will weigh a little under 500 lbs. 

However, if you'd like to increase the capacity you could put down an expanded steel mesh on top of the cross members, and then add some oak bunks on top of the 3" channel.  You would need to add some bracing in the corners too, but this would save you around 300 lbs or so of trailer weight, increasing your net payload.

Some commercial trailers were built with axel's that resembled "mobile home" axels, except that they were a commercial duty axle.  You might have those.

The brake mechanism that you describe is the common type of electric braking system used on light duty trailers.  Carquest in Apex may be able to get you some replacement shoe's, seals, etc if you take them your old parts and let them match them up.  You will need an electronic braking controller for your pickup; I prefer the digital Reese / Drawtite ones (they are about 70 bucks online).

If you want to pull your drums off, I can stop by and give you an opinion regarding how much the drums and shoes are worn (can bring some digital calipers with me to measure - max wear is usually listed on the drum).  There have been plenty of trailers built and used over the years with MH axle's; I would not be afraid of them for your intended use.  You will want to repack the bearings and replace the grease seals no matter what.

One thing to check is the quality of the welds on the stake pockets.  You want to make sure that you have very strong welds on them, especially if you hook a portable winch into any of them.

One other thing that I would suggest is cleaning up the wiring and making sure that it is attached and protected (I can see it hanging down in the photo).  Loose wires hanging down are an invitation to get snagged and broken.

Agrisupply in Garner has the best local prices on components.  I don't think that they have MH brake parts, but they do have the electric brake-away kits (required by law), safety chains, etc.

Finally, if you need new trailer tires PLEASE give me a call.  I bought some brand new, highest quality that I could find (high load rating) MH tires last year for a project, and then ended up using some different axle's.  They are stored in one of my sheds, and I'd love to get some $ back out of them (and save you some $ at the same time). 

Scott

[DanG]

Looks like a good straight trailer to me.  Nobody has managed to bend it in 27 years, so it must be stout enough.  You could haul logs on it just like it sits.  Log trucks don't have decks on them anyway, but you'll find lots more uses for it if you put one on.

[Weekend_Sawyer]

 Bob,

I have a very similar trailer. 6" channel frame with 4" cross members. Mine looks alot like yours. My cross members are 3' apart and with 6/4 white oak decking I haul my 7000 lb skid steer with no problems.
I also have the same axel setup. those brakes work great. Mine are 7000lb rated and I regestered my trailer at 10,000lb gross.

How wide is your trailer. Mine was 6' wide with the tires on the outside like yours, I welded some 1' tabs (exetnsions) to the outside and made it a deck over wheels and now have an 8' wide trailer so I can haul a car on it.

Jon

[Chuck White]

Looks like a good straight trailer to me.  Nobody has managed to bend it in 27 years, so it must be stout enough.  You could haul logs on it just like it sits.  Log trucks don't have decks on them anyway, but you'll find lots more uses for it if you put one on.

I agree.  Just protect the wiring.

Looks like a nice heavy duty trailer.

[DanG]

I gave up on protecting the wiring.  I bought a set of magnetic taillights and use them on all my trailers including the boats.  I fastened them to a board and just clamp that onto whatever trailer I'm using. ;)

[Magicman]

I have seen 1/2" PVC clamped under a trailer and used as a conduit for the trailer wiring.

[kelLOGg]

Wow. I hit it lucky getting that trailer. I really value FFers opinions - ya'll have certainly reinforced my confidence in my buy. It inspires me.

Scott, I appreciate your kind offers on drum measurements etc., I will be in touch with you on that. I've got he wheels off the ground but haven't removed them yet. Lug wrench doesn't fit.

The cargo portion is 6' x 16' and is damage free but the 2" x 6" channel iron comprising the A-frame portion near the hitch has a bend on each side. Must have taken a BIG hit. Dickens, the cat in the pic, is pointing that out ;D but it is cosmetic damage only - doesn't affect towing.

I will completely re-wire it and provide protection for the taillights. Magicman, I was thinking the identical thing about running wires in conduit nestled in the channel iron.

Tomorrow, I'm off to a steel recycler to get some channel iron to add to the existing cross members.

Bob

[rockman]

Thats a great buy Kellogg, I saw that on craigslist and almost called my son to go get it but didn't. Being that I'm working in New York I didn't trust my sons judgement on it's condition. Anyway, you got a Great deal.

[metalspinner]

While you're poking around looking for steel, pick up a couple of pieces of 3" channel for some parbuckling ramps. 6'-8' long each is about right.

That trailer looks alot like mine.  It has served me very well. The deck over wheels is handy for loading from the side with a fork and unloading by rolling the logs off. The only thing about that design is the higher center of gravity with a heavy load.  I have a 1/4" steel plate deck on mine and love it.

[scsmith42]

the A-frame portion near the hitch has a bend on each side. Must have taken a BIG hit.

Bob

\
Bob, offhand it sounds like someone may have jacknifed the trailer.  If you back a tag-a-long trailer up in a tight circle, the ends of the tow vehicle's bumper can bend the tongue on the trailer.

[js2743]

you could add some cross bracing on the back and thru out and make it a lot stronger other then that it looks fine to me. i have built several trailers just like this and never had any trouble with it only thing different, i put bracing in the corners and over the axles.

[kelLOGg]

...sounds like someone may have jacknifed the trailer.  If you back a tag-a-long trailer up in a tight circle, the ends of the tow vehicle's bumper can bend the tongue on the trailer.

That is consistent with the way it is bent.

While you're poking around looking for steel, pick up a couple of pieces of 3" channel for some parbuckling ramps. 6'-8' long each is about right.

I will use the ramps that came with my Cooks mill but I do plan on making drive-on ramps to load my 2800 lb tractor. Do you think the center of gravity is too high for that? The main purpose of the trailer is for log but it would be nice if I could put the tractor on it too.

[scsmith42]

...sounds like someone may have jacknifed the trailer.  If you back a tag-a-long trailer up in a tight circle, the ends of the tow vehicle's bumper can bend the tongue on the trailer.

That is consistent with the way it is bent.

While you're poking around looking for steel, pick up a couple of pieces of 3" channel for some parbuckling ramps. 6'-8' long each is about right.

I will use the ramps that came with my Cooks mill but I do plan on making drive-on ramps to load my 2800 lb tractor. Do you think the center of gravity is too high for that? The main purpose of the trailer is for log but it would be nice if I could put the tractor on it too.

It should work just fine for your tractor, or just about anything else that you want to use it for.

If you install a wood deck, Cruco in Sanford stocks the torx self-tapping trailer deck screws commonly used in the industry. 

[kelLOGg]

Progress has been slow but is still underway and will post pictures soon. I've done nothing to the brakes yet - I'm saving that for last. Right now I am about to add means of securing log(s) on the trailer. What are the relative merits of using chain vs nylon straps? Most pictures I see on the FF of loaded trailers use straps. I have lots of chain but the light weight straps are attractive.

Bob

[Magicman]

I use both, but find that the straps are quicker and easier.  If you need to re-tighten, just give it a click.

[ksu_chainsaw]

Straps are easier, and if you bump up to a 4" wide strap, the weight rating goes WAY up. For the flatbed that is in the process of getting installed on my pickup, i ordered 2 2" strap winches from northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company (i know that place is a chinese knockoff warehouse, but had a gift certificate for $25) and they ran about $10 each.  They are rated at 5K each, which is the weight you are looking at anyway- and the best thing about having a winch welded to the bed is that they dont walk off and attach themselves to someone elses truck or trailer.

Charles

[bandmiller2]

Bob,as i have alluded to before the best tiedowns are flat top truck spring "U" bolts they lie on the deck when not needed the lift them up to fasten chain or strap.Let them straddle a cross member with a bar across the bottom. Frank c.

[kelLOGg]

There has been some progress on the trailer but not enough to get it rolling so I guess it's still a sled. You can see the pic.



I've run into a snag. The axles it had when I purchased it were a set of two half-axles stuck in a pipe which I didn't like so I bought another set of tandems off of a mobile home. The axle seats were ¾ inch too wide for my trailer so I ground them off, purchased new ones to weld on. As I was planning to weld them I noticed the bend in the two axles were in the opposite direction. I knew this by rotating the axles so the brake magnets were down, (I read on etrailer.com they should be oriented down but I don's see how or why it makes a difference) and the bend in the axles became apparent that they were in the opposite direction. Apparently, the axles were used like this on a mobile home. Since I have to weld new seats on it is a simple matter to correct by rotating the axles so they both bend in the same direction (down in the middle) but the brake magnets will be oriented up in one axle and down in the other. Does this orientation really make a difference??

[Magicman]

I can't answer the brake question, but with bent axles, you are surely to have a wheel alignment tire wearing problem if I was following your description.

[Weekend_Sawyer]

I don't know about the brake orentation but the axel should be arched up. I don't know why but those house trailer axels are that way.

Lotta help aint I ;)

[Dalrymple]

The "bends" in cambered axles should be up, so that any flexing as the axles are loaded would serve to straighten the tube.

Most mobile home axles have the brake backing plates welded onto the axle tube, but if you're lucky enough to have bolt-on backing plates, you can easily turn the brakes over.

[Magicman]

Now, all of the "don't knows" learn something.   

[pineywoods]

If one of your axles appears  bent up and the other down, they most likely came off different trailers, one of them had the springs mounted on top of the axle, the other had the springs mounted underneath. I mounted mine with the springs under the axle, lowers the bed about 4 inches.

[kelLOGg]

If one of your axles appears  bent up and the other down, they most likely came off different trailers, one of them had the springs mounted on top of the axle, the other had the springs mounted underneath.

Why would an underslung and overslung spring require opposite directions of the bend (camber)? Each method experiences the same weight, right?

BTW the two axles had their springs attached on a common rocking hanger strongly suggesting they were from the same trailer.?????

[sgschwend]

Arched up, the brakes need to be setup with the magnet down.  I think the reason is that the brakes may not release correctly or may drag.

The magnet when energized drags a lever around as the wheel turns, there is a mechanical advantage to this and also some gain so the shoes drag and help the lever move.  Sometimes electric brakes get stuck in the on position and the operator needs to backup the trailer to release the brakes.

[whiskers]

The arch up creates a bit of positive camber that when loaded returns to neutral or thereabouts. Some states don't approve mh axles for road use and the mh tires are marked, not for road use mobile home only. That said, the mh manufacturers reuse the axles, go figure.

What will you be hauling and what hitch will you use?

[redbeard]

I founds some nice E-load tires made by General that fit my MH rims on a trailer i had. I always had a star wrench with me on longer hauls you want to keep the lugs tight they get loose especially with heavy loads.

[H60 Hawk Pilot]

I have a home made trailer that is simliar to your i.e. like axles and frame work. My trailer is one tough trailer and I just came down from PA to FL (1000 miles) with it. The Gross Wt. on the trailer was 11,200 pounds. It has mobile home axles and 8 ply tires and really hauls a load. I was stopped by the  S C State Police and they looked at my truck license. The State Police wanted to see my weight class, I was 26,000 GVW.  I had on 20,560 GVW on the 3/4 ton Dodge Diesel and 2 axle trailer. I had the tire pressures up to haul this weight, my max. on trailer and truck was 80 PSI, I set them at 70 PSI, to allow for road heat build up.

Back to your trailer, I'd mount removal fender's that work well for all types of usage. My trailer has a duck tail on it and like it a lot. It's just right to use with a short ramps and/ or backing up to a bank for load/unloading. I have not used it but bought a remote contol winch to mount on the front of the trailer for winching dead stuff on it. I'm going to mount it to a square hitch stock.  I could slip it in or out & use on rear of my truck or any where I wanted with any hitch receiver. Also, you can buy the detachable snatch blocks to attach to the side of your trailer. The snatch blocks will allow you to side load logs with short type ramps on the sides. That's where the removal fenders come off to keep them from getting damaged.

My trailer has the steel grating type deck where you drive up on the (outboard) sides. The middle is open, about 3 feet and I like it that way. When I want to, I lay in  2 X 6's or wider boards  to fill in the center section for hauling smaller items that I don't want to fall down & out in the middle.  

All in all, you can do a lot with your trailer. I mentioned what my set up  is so you can copy some of my trailer's feature's for your personal usage. I would not trade this old trailer on a new one.. because of it's multi usage capability.

I might mount my Norwood mill on this trailer because of the open section and open grating. This trailer would be a good choice for this purpose. If I go that route, I'll be looking for a tilt top with 3 axles and goose neck as a step up for heavier hauling.

Good Luck

Avery


   

[kelLOGg]

Arched up, the brakes need to be setup with the magnet down.  I think the reason is that the brakes may not release correctly or may drag.

The magnet when energized drags a lever around as the wheel turns, there is a mechanical advantage to this and also some gain so the shoes drag and help the lever move.

Thanks for the explanation of why the magnets must be down. However, that makes one of my axles arched up and the other down. I can't rotate the backing plate on the axle because it is bolted on with a 4-bolt asymmetric pattern. >:(.  So, am I hopelessly stuck here?

[Dalrymple]

Why would an underslung and overslung spring require opposite directions of the bend (camber)? Each method experiences the same weight, right?

The bend would be the same, always up.  If the axle were set up to be under the spring, the spring pad on the axle would be welded on top of the tube.  If the axle goes on top of the spring, the pad is on bottom.  If your axles are set up opposite one another, you will need a pair of spring pads welded on one of them.

Look closely at this asymmetric bolt pattern for the backing plates.  After you flip the axle, can you then swap sides with the brakes to correct them?