iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

woodmizer hydraulic mod / bypass

Started by j_d, February 19, 2017, 10:57:12 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

caveman

Thanks, Robert.  That seems like the way to go.  It perplexes me that WM does not make all of their mills in such a way as the hydraulics work wherever (everywhere) one is along the mill.  Copper strips can't be a deal breaker financially.  
Caveman

Bandmill Bandit

Jim - I pick it up at a local electronic/computer/controls/components supplier called Kohen.

It come in a few different sizes but I find the small cans to be the best value because you use so little and you can get to places the larger cans won't let you get too.

Also the alternator rebuild shop I go to has it as well.

Caveman
I don't know this accept from rumor - there was a lawsuit some time ago that resulted in the strip method as a "fix" to "mitigate" a recurrence of the same situation making the mill "safer"!

SO I think it is SAFE to say that the current system is a SAFETY factor.
If that is true perhaps Marty could comment to make sure I'm not spreading un-truth.  

With the hydraulics live 100% of the time one MUST be very aware of what and WHO is around the mill. When my mill is operational, I keep ALL persons un less they have had the orientation session AND are directly involved in the milling operation at least 100 feet out side the operational area including the area where the the FEL must operate. NO EXCEPTIONS.    
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on February 17, 2019, 09:51:54 AM
Why'd you remove it?
I was using a battery that was beginning to fail, and in doing some voltage and current checks, realized that the 26ft of1/0 cable was giving a built in voltage drop of about 1V at very high currents. I figured removing the cables would help the overall performance and weren't needed for most of the reasons I put them in for about a million bf ago. And would lighten the cat track up.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

YellowHammer

Even though I have the welding cable, I left the power strip on and when possible try to keep the head on the power strip, just to get eliminate any power loss.  No reason to take the existing strip off.   If I'm doing a high power move, like lifting a big log on the loader, I will back the head over the strip just for the extra connectivity.  Having a power strip on both ends would cover 90% of the hydraulic movements.

A few years ago, Woodmizer delivered a buddy's LT50 to our logyard, and I let the new owner break it in using some of my logs.  As part of that, I could use the mill anytime, for the best part of a month.  Same Diesel engine, same Accuset 2.  What I quickly came to realize was that I could keep up or even mill more logs faster with my LT40 power anywhere and roller tables, than I or he could with the LT50 and single power strip and no roller tables.   Being able to do things in parrallel made up for slower hydros.  Dropping and raising backstops, moving clamps, loading logs etc can all be done while sawing, or before dragging the head to the strip, so by the time the cut is made, most everything has already been positioned for the next cut.  

Now, if I could have put the hydraulics anywhere mod on the LT50, it would have been smoking fast.  It would have crushed my mill.  

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Bandmill Bandit

The combination of the power every where, 2nd hydraulic pump, upgrade to 3/4HP drive motors and conductors feeding them to #6 high grade copper, adding my little genset and the extra battery, board return and the roller table make my mill every thing I want in a mill. I dont think a LT50 could produce any more than I do currently with my mill. The green laser is a nice feature to have as well. 

Ive been toying with the idea of swapping out the 105 Amp alternator on the mill for a 140 amp BUT then I wouldn't have the second battery getting charged ALL the time, there by reducing the over all amps and voltage available to the entire system. 

NOTHING on my mill draws the available voltage below 12.5 volts UNLESS the mill and Genset are NOT running. Also 210 amps available charge capacity and 1800 cranking amps just doesn't leave any room for low amps or voltage electrical capacity issues.

Brushes last at least 2 times longer and there is very minimal arc path on the armature when I clean them every spring. 

Gross electrical capacity and current delivery to the motors is a key factor in how well my mill operates. IF i were to by a new one, it would go in the shop for the conductor upgrades BEFORE I even started the engine the first time.           
Skilled Master Sawyer. "Skilled labour don't come cheap. Cheap labour dont come skilled!
2018 F150 FX4, Husqvarna 340, 2 Logright 36 inch cant hooks and a bunch of stuff I built myself

Thank You Sponsors!