Hand planes/molding planes

[coalsmok]

I have been using mostly power tools to build my projects but here lately have been wondering about starting towards using some hand tools. Driving this is the fact that my work area is currently in the basement under my kids bedrooms and often they are asleep when I have time to work on things. 
  Been looking/ bidding on a few combination planes and rabbet planes with little success. I am wondering if they are worth what seems to be collector pricing found on eBay which seems to be the only source other than a couple high end new makers.  Would like to be able to cut tounge and groove and add some simple decoration to small projects without the noise and dust.

[LaneC]

   I have not been on e bay for a while, but when I was starting to buy those types of tools they were not overly expensive compared to new tools like that. Some of the new hand planes are very expensive. Having said that, They are also an heirloom type tool, and the highest quality of materials and craftsmanship that go into making them. I bought used which I normally do not do. All of the planes and all that I got, I had to flatten, sharpen etc., but doing that to the tool gets you very familiar with the components, proper terminology of the parts, and the skills to maintain it. If I am able to build something, I am very glad I have hand tools. No noise, dust system, or replacement blades (for the most part), and I do not have to worry about a table saw or any other power tool kicking back, cutting my fingers off or anything. (not saying you cannot get injured with a hand tool.) Hope this helps.

[coalsmok]

I have accumulated a small assortment of regular planes. Enough to get a board smooth and jointed if I develop the skill. Don't see many molding or plow planes for sale in this area.
Just when looking on eBay it seemed that the ones for sale in the US are selling higher than the same plane in England.  Some of the Stanley's are going for over half the cost of a new one.
I may just up the price I'm willing to pay after I get finished fixing my truck up.

[Don P]

I haven't read this book on making hand tools but have had good dealings with these folks;
http://www.shakerovalbox.com/wp-content/uploads/makingwoodtools.pdf

[woodworker9]

Are you interested in metal planes or wooden planes? 

I am a plane maker by trade, and also earning a living as a woodworker, like others here, for over 30 years.  I think it's an excellent idea for you to invest some time in learning about planes, tuning them, caring for them, and using them first before spending a bunch of money on the big auction site.  I can tell you from experience that there is a lot of worn out junk on ebay.  If you know what to look for, and how to repair or tune a hand plane, almost anything that isn't destroyed can be repaired or tuned for sufficient use.

I have been teaching hand tool use in my shop, from time to time, for over 15 years, and I also do seminars at woodworking shows.  The one book I recommend over all others is "The Hand Plane Book" by Garrett Hack.  No affiliation.  Just a great primer on hand planes.  All the different types of hand planes are discussed, including a brief history lesson.  You will learn how to tune up a plane for maximum benefit in use.  It's a great idea to learn on less expensive tools before you start investing serious money in new tools, whether it be in metal planes or wooden ones.  I use and make wood planes, from bench planes to rabbet planes and molding planes (hollows and rounds), and I can tell you that it's a slippery slope.

Hand planes can take your woodworking to a whole new level of quality and precision that is very difficult, if not impossible, to achieve with power tools.  For my own approach, I do all my rough stock preparation with power equipment, but switch over to all hand work for joinery and finish.  I enjoy the peace and quiet in the shop, and the sound of a well tuned plane making shavings is much nicer than a power sander making dust and filling the work environment with that stuff to breath in.

[coalsmok]

This is my plan. To remove the bulk of the material then do the fine tuning with hand tools after the kids are out. I prefer now to do as much as I can by hand but as all I have is an assortment of smoothing planes and a few hand saws I'm kind of limited on what happens after bed time.
I am trying to purchase a combination plane at the moment along the lines of a Stanley #45 to allow me to add beading and other visual effects without the noise and dust. The thing I'm noticing is that a new Veratis is only a couple hundred more than most of them with an assortment of cutters are selling for and a used plane on EBay is hard to examine until you pay the money.
I guess I am focused more on that than saws as I don't have much trouble cutting many joints on one of my power saws.

[JV]

I like the Stanley 45 especially with the hollows and rounds set.  I have found them at flea markets and auctions where they weren't overpriced.  I have used the 55 for short runs of molding, but it is a whole different animal.  Teaches you not to go against grain in a hurry.

[coalsmok]

Well I got what I hope is a good deal on a craftsman combination plane and cutter assortment. So in about a week or so the questions will probably start rolling in.

[coalsmok]

Ok so I got the combination plane in yesterday. It is a Craftsman made by Sargent I believe. Came with most of the original cutters and most of them don't look like they were used much.
I played with it some last nigh and now I have some questions.

When using the beading cutters do you start with the entire profile out or do you adjust it out a little at a time?

How do you sharpen the beading cutters? It became very obvious the one I was using needed sharpened.

Is there any tuning to do on this type of plane?

[PA_Walnut]

Interesting thread. I've had the joy of using planes often in my woodworking adventures, from building historic replica furniture, to windsor-chair building, to Maloof rockers. The joy of having the right tool for the right job is great.

I've instructed my wife, that should I have an untimely demise, ditch everything with a cord at an auction. Save the hand tools for the kids, but don't give them until they hit about 30, so they don't sell it for beer money.

For any plane-makers needing it, I saw and stock (stash) great quarter sawn beech in 8/4 and 12/4. It's specifically for toolmaking. I've sold material to the most famous of wooden hand plane makers.  ;D

[JV]

Congratulations, but a warning, hand tools are addictive.  I'm guessing you have a Sargent 1080.  You can download a manual from tooltrip.com/tooltrip9/sargent/1080-85.pdf.  There are several videos on YouTube showing the Stanley 45 beading, etc.  All my planes are in storage needing to be moved to our new house or I would take a picture.  If I remember correctly, the Sargent is almost a clone of the 45.  The cutter just goes by the sole of plane enough to make a good cut.  The entire profile doesn't go by or it would gouge.  You gradually get the finished depth by repeated passes with the plane.  I'm sure there are others who can explain it better than me.

[coalsmok]

  The cutter just goes by the sole of plane enough to make a good cut.  The entire profile doesn't go by or it would gouge.  You gradually get the finished depth by repeated passes with the plane.  I'm sure there are others who can explain it better than me.

Well that may explain a lot of my issues last night better than a dull cutter. 🤦🏻‍♂️  I will try it again this weekend if time allows. I feel like I'm starting down yet another expensive slippery slope of tool gathering.

I got the original manual with the plane and even a display stand so I'm assuming it came from a collector.

[woodworker9]

Sharp cutters are essential to not making this a hair pulling experience.  They don't come sharpened, unless the previous owner did them for you. That would be rare.

You will need to learn up on sharpening profiled cutters without changing their profile.  Flattening the back of each cutter is essential, and progressively working to a finer grit of whatever your sharpening media is to get to a consistent high polish on both sides of the cutter.

I make molding planes (wood) and do final sharpening of profiles for them, as well as carving chisels, with a combination of arkansas slip stones (profiled) and 3M microabrasives wrapped around wooden dowels I make of different sizes.  Works great, but it's an acquired skill with lots of practice.

[Bruno of NH]

I find most of my planes at estate sales and FB yard sales with folks cleaning out.
Some don't know what they have and you can buy some nice stuff.

[coalsmok]

Well I have started my first project/trial run. If it doesn't end up as kindling and there is interest I will post more photos of it in another thread when I'm done.

[Kbeitz]

Post away.... I'm watchen....

[JV]

Me too.  I even dug out one of my old Stanley 55's.