proper direction of tree falling

[54Dutchman]

No experiance - but wedges sound like a good idea.  Where can they be purchased ???

[beenthere]

Chainsaw shop, farm stores, box stores that sell chainsaws....among a few.

Or click on sponsor Bailey's (left column Lucas Mill Bailey's) for some wedges (plus much more).

[John Mc]

Here's a link to a search on Bailey's site for "wedges". Lots to choose from.

I use 10 or 12" long wedges, even on smaller trees. The little "mini" wedges sold at some hardware stores are just about worthless.

Basic uses for wedges are fairly obvious, IMO, but learning to make the most of them can take some practice and training.

[thecfarm]

Some use a about a 2 pound hammer to tap them in,others just use a small piece of wood. I use the wood,about 2 feet long,and about what ever feels right in my hand for roundness,maybe 3 inches. Remember these are made just to tap kinda hard,not made to use all you got. On some problem trees,if it's bigger enough 2-3 can be used to make it fall. Just go from one to the other,just by tapping them in.

[John Mc]

I use the back of an axe with about a 2+ foot handle. I'm not giving it all I've got, but found a short-handled two pound hammer was just too much work for me - especially when working on larger trees or those with a lot of back lean. The longer handle lets you get more into it without straining, and lets you stand more upright when driving the wedge.

The axe is a nice size for me, since the handle fits in my "job box" that carries spare chains, tools, sharpening file & guide, stump vise, helmet, wedges, web sling to use for an anchor point, log tongs, spare mix oil, bar oil, first aid kit (quite a bit more complete than the pouch on my belt), etc. If I grab that box, a chainsaw, and some fuel, I've got just about everything I need for some felling and bucking firewood.

[chevytaHOE5674]

Also if you carry an axe to pound wedges with, then you also have a tool for chopping out a pinched bar, knocking small limbs off to get to the base of a tree, knocking the "wooden wedge" out of and cleaning up your face cut, etc.

[rossifp]

Aluminum wedges are available.

Grandview Aluminum makes ten different aluminum wedges, and sell directly to users.
http://www.gapalum.com/chainsawwedges.html

Madsen's in Centralia, WA sell two Mag Wedges (actually aluminum)
http://www.madsens1.com

[Phorester]

The argument that "I've never seen a _____(pick your tool) used in ___ (pick your number) years on the job", I think ignores advances in technique, safety or production in whatever job you have. 

We are all leery of change. I'll bet the same argument about felling wedges was used when the chainsaw was invented.  "I've never seen one of those on a logging job - I'll stick to my reliable crosscut.  By God that's how my Daddy did it, and it's good enough for me too."   ;D

To me, felling wedges, bore cuts, open faced notches, etc., are improvements in technique that make felling a tree or bucking logs easier, safer, and more productive.

[sawguy21]

In fact there was a lot of that talk in the PNW woods when chain saws were introduced, the fallers didn't like the noise and were afraid of being put out of work. They also didn't have to spend half the night getting a cranky primitive cross cut to start ;D

[hacknstack]

I have a couple of small wedges I bought from my Stihl dealer and I agree they're next to worthless.  I'm cutting mostly dead red oak for firewood, probably averaging 22-24" DBH.  What size wedges would work best for me?

[beenthere]

I use the small wedges. They work fine, so am wondering what you are trying to do with yours.
I slip them in the kerf and the wedges keep the tree from sitting back and closing in on the saw blade (as well as leaning backwards some).
Usually a few taps on the wedges will raise the tree with the hinge holding, and tip it over in the direction planned.
There are larger wedges available too. Check out Bailey's in the sponsor column to the left. Lots of choices.

[Ianab]

Possibly with large dead trees you will need more wedges?

Is the problem that you don't get enough lift? The wedge is driven right in before the tree tips over? Then you need the bigger wedges, or more so you can stack them 2 high and get more lift.

Or you can't drive them in as the hinge wood in dead oak is so stiff? Then you need more wedges. Get a line of them started along your back cut and whack each one in turn. They will gradually go in and lift the tree over.

Maybe you need both?

Ian

[hacknstack]

Unfavorable lean is probably the most common condition.  I'm thinking a few 8-inchers might be good to have - the two I have are only 5 1/2".

[thecfarm]

I use the 8" ones. The stihl dealer should have them too. They really should carry 3 diffeant sizes. Try one to see if you like it better,if not,you wasted 5-6 bucks.  ;D

[MHineman]

  I log alone usually so there isn't a skidder operator to pull the tree over while I cut.
  I cut marked trees not a clear cut and have to protect other trees so I have limited places to drop the tree.
  Typically it would be impractical to get in position with the skidding winch to pull the direction I want to fell the tree and take longer than using wedges.

  So... I use wedges.  For trees with a obvious lean in the direction I want it to fall, I just cut it.  If the wind is consistent and in the direction I want it to fall and the tree is balanced, I just cut it. 

  When the tree leans the wrong way or has a little more branches on the wrong side or the wind is from the wrong direction, I use wedges.

  For trees under 20" DBH, a wedge on each side in the back cut is usually all I need.  For larger trees I put the 2 wedges in after the back is 2/3 done and then cut more.  If needed I can then put 2 wedges in together (one above the other) on each side.  That gives you a lot of leverage.

  This may seem like a lot of work or takes a lot of time, but it takes longer to talk about than to do it.

  Dead trees are dangerous.  The hinge may pull out and let the tree fall the wrong way rather than controlling the fall.  The obvious danger is falling dead branches.  Wear a hardhat and have a spotter watching the tree while you cut or just skip it and move on.

  Hollow trees are even more dangerous.  It's very difficult to know until it's too late where (or if) there is enough sound wood to control the fall.  I try to cut high when cutting a hollow tree to get a greater amount of solid wood.

  I think most of my wedges are 10", but I have a few 8" wedges.  I do not use any smaller than that.

  I always put 5 wedges in my pouch when I head out.  For the tree stump to be like a clock face with 6 Oclock being the center of the notch, I have a wedge at 2 and 10.  If the tree needs help to go over, another wedge at 1 and 11.  That usually frees up the first 2.  2 wedges together are then put in at 12.  The 5th wedge is to replace the one that's gets dropped in the snow, mud, weeds, won't come out of the cut, etc.

[Ianab]

I think I've got 4 larger ones and 2 smaller. I've had them all in play a few times getting enough lift to persuade a larger tree against it's natural lean. The small ones are probably not enough for those bigger trees.

Ian