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Bought a Frick 02 sawmill

Started by 03westernstar, November 10, 2013, 11:14:20 PM

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Ron Wenrich

Are you planning to put a roof over top the mill?  Have you figured out how you're going to handle sawdust?  How are you anchoring your husk and your motor? 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

dblair

if your looking around on how to anchor it try mobile home anchors . screw them in the ground 4 ft or 5 ft and it's a great anchor . you can buy them at tractor supply or any place similar .
old Appomattox Iron Works circle mill.

clww

Great to watch this process progress. :D
Welcome to the Forestry Forum. :)
Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Its good to have a place like the FF to save the build resurrection of history.
These are some great pics and the story to go with it.  smiley_thumbsup
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

thecfarm

Yes,the weather has been bad here too. Ice and snow for us. Good luck with all you are doing.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

bandmiller2

03 Westy,not to be picky but your going to need a better foundation mate.Circular mills need  to be lashed down to a substantial foundation,I'am worried you will be wollowing around in the muck.Try her out but I know you can come up with some concrete.I admire your ambition,keep us posted. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

03westernstar

Thank yall for all the comments,I have been figuring on ancoring the mill down I just hadent figured out how yet,I had planned on telephone poles put in the ground about 8ft then attach them to the mill but mobile home anchors are a very good idea I hadent thought of that I just happen to have a few and I think a friend of mine has the drill to put them in the ground.

03westernstar

Quote from: Ron Wenrich on December 23, 2013, 05:55:41 AM
Are you planning to put a roof over top the mill?  Have you figured out how you're going to handle sawdust?  How are you anchoring your husk and your motor?



Yes I do plan on building a sawmill building, But funds are short as they are with everyone, hopefully once I get the mill running I can cut some lumber but I cannot cut roofing tin :D   Ive been buying all the odd pieces and sheets of tin I can find around cheaply.

dblair

the last I bought was 15 a sheet for 2x12.5 at Lowes contractor sales for 36 sheets. the best I could do around the Richmond - Petersburg area. Last spring .
old Appomattox Iron Works circle mill.

clww

Quote from: 03westernstar on December 23, 2013, 11:49:48 PM
Quote from: Ron Wenrich on December 23, 2013, 05:55:41 AM
Are you planning to put a roof over top the mill?  Have you figured out how you're going to handle sawdust?  How are you anchoring your husk and your motor?



Yes I do plan on building a sawmill building, But funds are short as they are with everyone, hopefully once I get the mill running I can cut some lumber but I cannot cut roofing tin :D   Ive been buying all the odd pieces and sheets of tin I can find around cheaply.

Keep an eye on your local CL. A couple years ago, I bought an old cow barn from a man in Windsor, mainly to get the 78 sheets of metal roofing. I got that, plus eight pickup loads of wood, 13 rolls of galvanized welded fencing, 250 T-posts, etc for $400. ;)
Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

RayMO

Great job !!! and thinking if you build the same style of roof/building it came out from under would not need much cash  :)
Father & Son Logging and sawing operation .

ddcuning

I agree with Frank that a beefy foundation should be in your long term plans. I sawed on a Frick 00 with a bad foundation before I built my own mill and I sawed a lot of wedges with it. For my mill, I used power pole sunk 3ft in the ground as my base then bridged the two poles with wooden I beams I made. It seems to be very stable so far.

If you can get free power pole somewhere, they will be good long term supports for your mill and for a shed over that mill. A shed will keep that mill going for many years. When I found my mill, part of it had been in the weather and it was near rusted away. If the whole mill had been in that condition, I couldn't have restored it.

Great to see you working on getting it going again!

Dave C
We're debt free!!! - Dave C, Nov 2015

Ron Wenrich

The first mill I installed, I did the same thing, except used cinder blocks.  You have to get below whatever your frost line is, so you don't get frost heave.  I also slotted my wooden cross beam to put the track on.  That way you can adjust the track if you have to.  You use a wooden wedges to keep it in place.  Its important to do that at the husk. 

At the husk, we had a dust pit.  I put in block walls, then attached wooden beams that ran from the back side of the husk, all the way to the far side of the track.  We ran that setup for about 5 years, then went to an automatic mill.  Our mills were all wood.

With the steel frame, you only need enough support so your track doesn't flex under any type of weight.  The husk area is the most important.  Next area of importance is the log end, since you'll be turning and loading logs there.  There won't be a whole lot of work being done beyond the saw, unless you're doing long timbers.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

03 Westy, flat belts work but if you run across some "V" belts and sheves it would be a large improvement between the engine and arbor.How many HP in the waulkishaw is it gas or diesel.?? V belts would allow you to back a truck or trailer close to the offbearer to haul product or slabs away.As Dave said utility poles make a good foundation they should be no more than 4' apart and buried deep on the sawyers side of the mill as turning the logs and cants tend to rack the mill. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Possum Creek

Looks like you got the mill fitted together good, but you might want a more open area that drains better . Of course you have to work with what you got. Good luck .                 PC

bandmiller2

03 Westy,before I forget when you make up the permanent foundation build the mill up higher it will make it easier to get rid of sawdust and the crapo that always collects under a mill. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

03westernstar

Thank yall for all the reply's, I have some 8' telephone poles but I thought if I put them in the ground with cement they would eventually loosen up but I see everyone has been using them.  What I was thinking now was to just put in mobile home anchors and draw it down on my railroad ties in a Criss-Cross pattern with Power Pole guide wire turnbuckles about 12'' long with chain or cable.  (the ties are nailed together with the rods CSX used at railroad crossings)

Ron Wenrich

I think if you don't get a good base under the mill, you're asking for problems down the line.  Frost heave and sinking can be a significant problem, especially if you don't have good drainage.  What will happen is your mill will get out of alignment.  That will cause problems with the saw and your lumber will look bad.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

03westernstar

Quote from: bandmiller2 on December 26, 2013, 07:14:23 AM
03 Westy, flat belts work but if you run across some "V" belts and sheves it would be a large improvement between the engine and arbor.How many HP in the waulkishaw is it gas or diesel.?? V belts would allow you to back a truck or trailer close to the offbearer to haul product or slabs away.As Dave said utility poles make a good foundation they should be no more than 4' apart and buried deep on the sawyers side of the mill as turning the logs and cants tend to rack the mill. Frank C.

The Waukesha is I think 85hp its a gas 6cyl flathead with 3½''bore 4¼''stroke.

03westernstar

Well today I went to tractor supply to buy horse feed and I came home with 6 48 in Earth Anchor with 6 in Dia Augers, Cable clamps, ¼'' cable(for another project), 5/8'' turnbuckles, 3/8'' cable Thimbles and a small spring, O and some horse feed.  My plan is to build a adapter to put the augers on the tractor post hole digger and screw them in the ground then Draw my mill down in a Criss-Cross pattern with 3/8'' cable and the turnbuckles.

Does anyone see anything wrong with doing so? Anything to add? I don't know how hard a mill is to keep still
and I thought I would post a pic of one of my trucks



  

 

goose63

Those anchors should do the trick good luck to ya 8) :new_year:
goose
if you find your self in a deep hole stop digging
saw logs all day what do you get lots of lumber and a day older
thank you to all the vets

Ron Wenrich

My knowledge of hold downs is pretty limited.  I don't think they provide a foundation, but are used to keep the trailer from blowing over in windy conditions.  I could be wrong.

The foundation is the important part.  If you're not down below frost line, or you don't have good drainage, you'll get movement.  If it sinks, you'll have problems.  You're also going to have to hold down the motor, or it will walk away on you.  I don't see where the hold downs will prevent any sinking.  Sinking will affect the alignment. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

dgdrls

Welcome to the FF,  best place on the web.

I agree with Ron W.  your going to need a solid foundation to
place the mill on.  I don't think the anchors will help as you want them too.

Perhaps use the tractor with the posthole digger to punch some
foundation holes and start building from there,

IMHO you will be chasing level issues all the time until you
set a solid foundation to place the mill on

DGDrls

dblair

well the frost line in Va. is about 18 inches , if you get below that then the anchors will keep the mill from shifting side ways and that's all you need . I have two on the drive , one that pulls tension onto the drive belt and one that keeps the engine square . dig some postholes 24 inches deep and fill them will concrete then build with brick or block to set it on. the anchors will keep it from shifting for sure .
old Appomattox Iron Works circle mill.

03westernstar

My HARD AS ROCK Red clay should be fine with good drainage and some anchors and a few telephone poles in the ground below the frost line, I just have to get all that done
I can never find time to work on my mill (or any project for that matter) in the winter months because of there not being enough daylight.

I also may have a lead on another Frick 0 Mill 
Has anyone had any luck making a Frick mill easily portable, because if I can somehow horse trade and get this one I wouldn't mind having a restored mill to take to Steam Shows and whatnot

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