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New Blade Design for Baker Twin Blade Edger

Started by YellowHammer, April 14, 2019, 08:10:23 AM

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YellowHammer

I have been processing a lot of kiln dried stock with my Baker edger and it is a beast, very accurate, very fast.  However, the stock split strobe blades  are very aggressive and cause a slight amount of corner and edge tear out on some 4/4 kiln dried stock.  Not bad, but I thought it could be improved.  Although I use the edger for green wood, I also use the edger like a twin blade Straight Line Ripsaw, and the stock blades are best for high speed edging in green wood, with a very aggressive profile and low tooth count.

So after productive talks with Baker, and then the company who designs and builds their edger blades, they were able to design and build me a new blade that should be a compromise with a higher tooth count for smoother cutting of dry hardwood, but will also cut thick green wood efficiently.  I'm on the phone and the engineer is designing the blade in his CAD system, real time.  Since the tooth count went up, they decreased the kerf and plate thickness so as to not require a significant amount more horsepower.

The results of prototype blade #1 and #2 are in, I've only been using them for about a week, but they cut noticably smoother in kiln dried 4/4 and 8/4 hardwood with reduced edge and corner tearout at the same feed rate.  They do seem to prefer a slightly slower feed rate, but that would be expected with the increased tooth count.  

I don't know how they will cut in 3", haven't tried it yet.

Here is prototype blade #2, below.


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Here is the stock edger blade as compared to the new prototype blade, below.  The original blade is the top half, the prototype is the bottom blade.  Notice the higher tooth count, smaller gullets, etc.  



Here is a closeup of the new part number, below.

Thanks Baker and Sharp Tool. I will keep testing and try to identify more pros and cons.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Bruno of NH

I'm glad is going good with the edger.
I'm hoping to add one with the new sawmill.
Go big or go home
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

WDH

Is the "Yellowhammer Special" available to the general public?
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

4x4American

They look just like the saws I run on my edger, same company too pretty sure



Boy, back in my day..

Southside

Too funny. I will have to take a picture of the dry blades I had designed for my edger. Same concept, more teeth, less aggressive bite. Do they leave any circular marks on the lumber?
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

YellowHammer

These are first run blades. They assigned a new part number while I was on the phone so they would be available to the public or Baker.  It took Sharp about 6 weeks to build these first prototypes.  

That's cool, @4x4American aren't you using a Cooks edger?  Did Tatro make them or sharpen them? What is the plate thickness, these are narrow kerf, as opposed to standard thickness? How do yours cut in thick stock?  Are there any manufacturer stamps on them? Do you know what the bolt circle diameter is?    



YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

YellowHammer

@Southside
Seems like a lot of us have identified the same need.  Who builds yours? What is the tooth count?  What brand of edger are you running? They do leave some marks on the side of the board caused by the wipers.

What tooth count does a Woodmizer edger run?  





YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

YellowHammer

The specs of this blade are:
CNH Strob 12 inch x .109 x 2 -3/4 x 18 teeth, pinholes 3 - 3/8" between centers, Kerf: .030, Hook: 30, Strobe Kerf: .020
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

moodnacreek

I gave up sawing dry lumber a long time ago. The saws on my edger are I.T. 14", 14 tooth.  Using the sawmill edger for dry or thick hardwood a variable feed would be the thing to have. I would say that with more teeth and slower feed [and no chatter] you could cut most anything.

YellowHammer

That was one reason we went with the Baker, it has full variable speed hydraulic drive.  The issue is that with the lower teeth spacing, about 3 inches, the impact load is pretty high and I had one blade that had popped a carbide.  So tighter spacing should cause less tooth load and longer service life.  I'm very curious what other edgers run.  Mine is 20 hp, 18 tooth, 3 inch capability.  The original blades are 12 tooth.

I know Baker and Cooks run split strobes, and I think WM runs one piece, does it have a carbide wiper to prevent pinching?    
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Southside

Mine is a Riehl, split blades, will get a photo in the morning, just got back home with the mill from that portable job we talked about the other day.
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Peter Drouin

Is there a 2 piece blade for a WM out there?
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Southside

@YellowHammer  On the left are my "Green" blades, dry on the right. 8.5" diameter, 2" arbor. 14 and 20 teeth. Darin at Riehl had them made up for me when I told him what I needed. I run KD 4/4 through the edger at 100 FPM, it does leave circular marks, 25 HP gas Kohler.



 
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Bradm

Quote from: YellowHammer on April 14, 2019, 08:10:23 AM
Here is the stock edger blade as compared to the new prototype blade, below.  The original blade is the top half, the prototype is the bottom blade.  Notice the higher tooth count, smaller gullets, etc.  




Looks like the original blade is heavily dished at the collar line.  Right hand side, right at the split, I can see the steel body is pulled up at the bore. 

Sharp makes a good blade so you are in good hands there. 

ellmoe

Quote from: YellowHammer on April 14, 2019, 04:56:02 PM
I know Baker and Cooks run split strobes, and I think WM runs one piece, does it have a carbide wiper to prevent pinching?    
Yes , they do .  We can run 2" dry hickory and oak with just a little "chipping " on the edge of some boards.
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

4x4American





That's what I know about them.  They are from Sharp Tool.  They cut fine in thick stock, we run alot of 8/4 beech, hard maple, and oak and they do ok, thicker than 8/4 would have to slow feed rate.  Yes it's a cooks edger with 34hp perkins diesel
Boy, back in my day..

4x4American

Tatro Sharpening sharpens and order the blades for me
Boy, back in my day..

YellowHammer

Thanks for the info.  The comparisons are:

Original Baker edger blade: 12 inch diameter, 3.14 perimeter inches per tooth, plate thickness:0.120"

Yellowhammer Specials are 12 inch diameter, 2.09 perimeter inches per tooth, plate thickness: 0.109"

Cooks (4X4's) are 14 inch diameter, 2.44 perimeter inches per tooth, plate thickness:0.120"

Reihls (Southside) Dry blade: 8.5" diameter, 1.33 perimeter inches per tooth
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Percy

Quote from: Peter Drouin on April 14, 2019, 10:02:10 PM
Is there a 2 piece blade for a WM out there?
I don't think so Peter. I'd love it if there was. I can change them in a half hour with re calibration of width. But this split saw thing would take 5 min. 
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

customsawyer

I'll take a look at the blades on my WM tomorrow and see. I know they offered a hardwood blade and a softwood blade. I went with the hardwood as I figured they would cut both and most of my soft wood is getting 4 sided after anyway so the planer could fix anything I needed fixed. Might be able to look on their website and see what the difference is, if someone has the time. I have to go check the kiln, now that I know it is my all my fault anyway. :D
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

YellowHammer

Why couldn't you get Sharp to build one? Unless there was a design issue, Sharp could do it.  They certainly have the capabilty, just whether they would or not.  Does the WM blade have the bolt holes?
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

ellmoe

Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

Peter Drouin

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

customsawyer

I still have to get that picture for you guys. I haven't had the courage to change the blades on the edger yet. I might get a hold of sharp with the specs of my new blade and see if they can make me a split blade for the mizer.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

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