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Started by PineHill4488, April 11, 2017, 11:09:05 PM

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PineHill4488

I have some red oak that is STUNNING and want to make sure that as I finish it, it will look its best.

Please advise on stain and finish.

Thanks, Greg
Fall 2013 purchased Stihl MS 660 and an Alaskan 36" mill, am happy with the setup, hobbyist not a volume producer, have milled oak, hickory, yellow pine, and power poles.

Sparty

In my experience, q-sawn oak is more forgiving than some other types of figure.  In curly type figure, you are trying to show a deep 3D image on a flat surface.  Oak fleck acts more like little mirrors right on the surface that reflect light.  I would think the main worry would be hiding the fleck behind heavy finish or dark stain (although I've seen dark stain work out well on q-sawn oak).  Common poly schemes can work well and oil/wax schedules look really nice.  Depends if you need dining table type protection or can go with a less protective finish.  Overall, if you have a finish that you are comfortable with, it will probably look nice on your oak.

Bruno of NH

i like linseed oil on oak
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

scsmith42

For starters, don't use "stain" on quartersawn oak.  Pigment based stains put a layer on top of the wood, not unlike a film on a window.  This layer tends to cover up some of the chatoyance of the lumber and natural beauty of the medullary rays.

Another problem with pigmented stains on red oak is that the pigments collect in the open pores of the lumber, and you can't get them out.  This is why red oak frequently has a "striped" appearance if it is stained.

Instead, if you want to change the color on quartersawn oak, use a dye instead of a stain.  Dye's penetrate into the lumber and change the color from within, instead of leaving a film on the surface.

Personally I like oil finishes on oak, wet sanded about 10 minutes after saturating the wood.

Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Larry

Depends on what kind of project you are building.  Kitchen cabinets would typically have a totally different finish than say wood art meant to hang on a wall.

I've gotten away from oil and varnish finishes on oak because I got tired of the yellow hue.  Using a lot of acrylic lacquer and when possible blonde shellac.  The acrylic lacquer is water clear when I look in the can and doesn't yellow with time.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

PineHill4488

Gentlemen,

Thanks for your advice, I have some scraps that I will use to execute each of your suggestions and see which one mommacita prefers.

Greg
Fall 2013 purchased Stihl MS 660 and an Alaskan 36" mill, am happy with the setup, hobbyist not a volume producer, have milled oak, hickory, yellow pine, and power poles.

bucknwfl

I have found that danish oil works great for a little darker tint but really prefer just poly. It makes it pop and is as natural look as I can find

Thanks

Buck
If it was easy everybody would be doing it

Joey Grimes

I get frustrated when a customer wants to stain a beautiful wood like cherry or walnut but I'll give them what they think they want .I prefer to pick a wood that you like the natural color and use a clear finish I've recently started using a conversation varnish finish from ml camble it is a very clear finish and very durable.
94 woodmizer lt40 HD kabota 5200 ford 4000 94 international 4700 flatbed and lots of woodworking tools.

WDH

I have never stained walnut or cherry  :).
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

low_48

I've had a lot of issues with bleed back when using Danish or Linseed oil on red oak. You have to constantly wipe it for at least an hour. I got to the point that I would use compressed air to blow excess oil out of the pores. But you can still get this little glossy bubble on the surface  the next morning. The advice for dye is very good, and what I use for a clear coat depends on usage. Lacquer or thinned satin poly are my two most often used.

123maxbars

I use waterlox, does great and is easy to apply,
Sawyer/Woodworker/Timber Harvester
Woodmizer LT70 Super Wide, Nyle L53 and 200 kiln, too many other machines to list.
outofthewoods
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