Bi-Level FaceCuts

[TreeSpyder]

i was wondering if anyone else 'round these parts has played with FaceCuts that the 'floor cut' on side leaners is higher or kerfed on lean side.

Most of my cuts are made airborne, not of felling size, but served at a higher leveraged angle of movement against gravity (horizontal swep on hinge) and sometimes trying to get 180 degree sweep on hinge of rigged branch and  still be connected.

But i use the strategy on the ground some too even some in bucking.

[TreeSpyder]

Know, Really i'm Serious....

Horizontal limb rigging by following the axis of the loaded forces to empower support and steering powers, in first phase of cutting; like faking a run the wrong way down the field; just to turn around and leverage to real target.

Or, something like that ~30sec.at 20k size

[Kevin]

Ken;
I don't see a need for it unless you really want to turn the tree.
The tree or branch will pull towards the weight or what ever holding wood  remains, but more drastic...

[TreeSpyder]

Yes, it is for turning tree or branch.  Placing the fat part of the tapered hinge to the 'pull to side', and sometimes this kerf on the push from side for extra 'pepper'.  Like, not just turning with right oar, back pedaling with left at same time too to me.  Employing not just the standard turn force to turn, but; also it's equal and opposite force folded in there too.

If you rig a 2/1 pulley lift, with return leg to be controlled at ground; then pull on that return leg with another 2/1 anchored to ground on one side and you pull on the other; you have a 4/1(2/1 piggy backed on return leg of 2/1).  To make a Spanish Burton, we take the anchor leg of the 2nd 2/1 (that pulls at the ground); and set that pulling force/leg on the load for 5/1.  In doing so we take the equal and opposite force just pulling at ground and set it to work on load.   With the same amount of gear, space, movement, direction etc.; we get more of power yield by simple, subtle change.   Similarily here, i think; instead of the push from side just anchoring against the pull from the fat side of hinge, it becomes more actively involved and pushes too.  Giving more useful output, from the same force; as converting a 4/1 to the 5/1 Spanish Burton.

Also, the pulls on hinge come from both sides (L and R), then a 2nd phase of push happens when faces close, it too is from L and R also.  Closing 1 side and not the other i think changes 2 things.  i think it drops the counterbalancing pull and push towards lean in hinge/face (iff lean side closes first); and combines both the pull of the hinge and the push of the face away from lean at the same time, instead of 2 different phases of seperate steering power, a combined force of the 2 induced on target at once.

A kerf across the full face builds back pressure, provides no releif, just kerf in one side as here, is much safer as it offers the other side as releif, and ya make the branch find this path of least resistance to ride out to target; sometimes seeming like a heat sinking missle as you guide it to that path, becasue it is looking for it too! 



Even felling needs directional control; sometimes just for softer landings.  Felling into the lean feeds straight into gravity's strongest pull i figure, other axises of fall feeding into less pull than the lean direction axis (have to say axis, cuz i figure flipping over backwards against lean allows full speed fall with no side pulls to distract force to side).  If the force for that turn away from lean comes from the tree itself (no rope or wedge directing plus giving added force); i figure tree has consumed some of it's own force to commit the turn, softening landing more.  Then, it's Center of Gravity doesn't move straight down to impact ground, but at a more indirect angle of concussion.

Most of my stuff is directional, even getting a horizontal branch rigged to pivot almost horizontally around 180 degrees while still on the hinge to get limb swooshed off from over pool screen, antanae, skylights etc. in 1 stroke (sometimes); instead of taking many chancey moves in smaller pieces; orchestrate a more surgical one; thast goes better the more length and weight you have to work with.  That instead of these factors (length and weight) being things that we calculate in fear of how they limit us, using strategies that use these componenets work to our aid, the more that there is is not more limiting, but more empowering(?)...

Or, something like that...

[Kevin]

Ken;
I used that method on a large birch yesterday about 28"dbh.
The top had been damaged several years ago and it had multiple suckers coming off the top of it.
It was really heavy on the back side of the lay and I thought I was going to have to wedge it over but to my surprise the back cut started to open up so I continued the cut and it fell to the lay without wedging.