Hauling logs

Grandbuddy · October 06, 2015, 05:22:11 PM

Hope I'm in the right spot to ask this. I've been watching some YouTube videos on folks using log arches on flat bed trailers. I need a way to haul logs to my LT 15 and this seems like a good idea. My questions are: are the trailers used made from heavy angle iron or do they use square tubing. What gauge tubing is used for the arch? I have welding skills and the machines but am lost as to what trailer to buy and how to construct the arch. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Grandbuddy
PS I've tried contacting originators of the videos but no replies.

beenthere · October 06, 2015, 05:28:13 PM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum.

Put a link to the video's you watched.. if they are family friendly.

Will help to zero in on your question.. and surely will get you help for you and logs.

Magicman · October 06, 2015, 05:29:31 PM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Grandbuddy. I am not up on axle weight limits, so I will defer to the builders.

Grandbuddy · October 06, 2015, 05:47:01 PM

Thanks beenthere and Magicman. Here is what I have watched on YouTube. The video is by TheTomSawyer.net. http://youtu.be/2PNc5ITIFjo

Grandbuddy · October 06, 2015, 05:48:48 PM

I forgot to mention. My truck is a Toyota Tacoma 2014 model with a towing package.

Kbeitz · October 06, 2015, 07:34:55 PM

There is so many different ways to build them...

pineywoods · October 06, 2015, 07:41:55 PM

There are several threads on here about the "deadheader/DanG" loader shown in the video. Use the search function to find them. Works good, maybe member DanG will chime in.

Sixacresand · October 06, 2015, 08:03:45 PM

Welcome to the Forum, Grandbuddy. I have watched the video you posted several times, but never added the arch to my trailer. I use the parbuckling method of loading logs. I use an arch like Kbeitz posted below to position logs parallel to the trailer. Unloading was by dragging logs off the trailer with a tractor, which was time consuming.

So I added some timbers to make the load as high as the trailer side rails. That allows to just roll logs off the side. I can unload a load in about two minutes. You are not far from me, come by and visit sometimes.

Tom the Sawyer · October 06, 2015, 08:17:18 PM

Grandbuddy,

The first consideration should probably be the towing capacity of your truck. If you go with a trailer with a larger GVWR than you should be towing, eventually there may be issues. The trailer used for my log lifting arch has dual 5200 pound rated axles (10,400 lbs.) and the trailer's empty weight is just under 2400 pounds so the 'payload' should never exceed 8,000 pounds. It was purchased to haul a farm tractor that I owned at the time, and I pull it with a F350 dually flatbed.

My mill is rated for logs up to 36" in diameter (realistically about 32") and up to 5000 pounds in weight. I designed the arch with those limitations in mind. It is extremely rare that I would try to pick up a log that large - but it can do it. The winch is an 8000 lb rated 12v MileMarker. The log arch was built from 2x2x.25" square tubing with .25" gusset plates over the mitered joints.

I feel that it is over built and that 3/16" tubing would have been plenty strong enough. I have never seen the slightest bit of flex, no matter how big a log I have loaded. Not that noticeable, but extremely important, are the trailer jacks on each rear corner. A really big log can pivot the hitch upwards, and the vehicle attached to it, which lifts the 'locked' axle off the ground and away you go - very dangerous.

I know of several versions of the log lifting arch that were built on 'standard' utility trailers (two 3500 pound axles). They would have a payload of 4500-5000 pounds. I unload with a forklift but, due to the fenders, I either pull logs off the end of the trailer or use tongs to lift them off the deck. A deckover trailer would be easier to unload but they are usually more expensive and have higher carrying capacities. Probably too large for your Tacoma.

I would be glad to send you photos and the original shop drawings (the fabricator changed a couple of things) via email. With over 80,000 views, I get requests like that a couple of times per month and I know several have been built, customized from my version.

customsawyer · October 06, 2015, 08:49:57 PM

Welcome to the forum.

Sixacresand · October 06, 2015, 09:27:31 PM

I agree Tom. The rear corners jacks are very necessary to prevent the trailer coming off the hitch and damaging the tailgate or worse. I usually block up the corners to load my tractor, which is seldom, since I don't have the properly designed ramps installed.

plowboyswr · October 06, 2015, 09:36:46 PM

Try this one

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,76289.msg1157562.html#msg1157562

Magicman · October 06, 2015, 09:41:37 PM

Here is a fairly long thread LINK about retrieving and loading using an arch. The unusual thing was that we backed the arch onto the trailer. It was not what we planned, but it worked.

fishfighter · October 07, 2015, 06:01:23 AM

I been looking at different trailers just for logs. I had over loaded my flat bed trailer to many times.

Only reason doing that was I was only a mile or two from the house. Really don't care to do that again. I been looking at some flat bed equipment trailers. I could use one for my backhoe which is over 13K lbs, but they want a arm and leg for something that big. So, I'm still looking for a good used one. ;D

red · October 07, 2015, 07:50:19 AM

Another type of trailer is the propane tank transport that is good for one large log

tmarch · October 07, 2015, 07:27:46 PM

Welcome to the forum. What kind of support equipment do you have for the mill? I use my tractor or toolcat at the mill and move logs 1-2 miles on my 2 sections with them.

kelLOGg · October 08, 2015, 07:05:57 AM

Quote from: Sixacresand on October 06, 2015, 08:03:45 PM
Unloading was by dragging logs off the trailer with a tractor, which was time consuming

So true for me, too. Being able to roll the logs off with no tires in the way is a plus. To avoid surprises I try to keep the logs from pressing against the stakes by chocking and securing w/ straps and load binders. That way I can remove the stakes and loosen the straps/binders from the safe or uphill side. So far, this has worked for my small operation.
Bob

WV Sawmiller · October 08, 2015, 11:30:53 PM

6 Acre,

I would sure be nervous about transporting logs stacked above the rail height as shown above. Looks awful top heavy and unbalanced to me. I'd be more inclined to load directly on the bed even if I had to drag them off or tie them to a tree and drive out from under them if I did not have any better support equipment.

Sixacresand · October 09, 2015, 08:14:54 AM

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on October 08, 2015, 11:30:53 PM
6 Acre,

I would sure be nervous about transporting logs stacked above the rail height as shown above. Looks awful top heavy and unbalanced to me. I'd be more inclined to load directly on the bed even if I had to drag them off or tie them to a tree and drive out from under them if I did not have any better support equipment.

WV Sawmiller,

You are right, directly on the bed is safer and more secure. While my tractor was broke down, I had to come up with something. I now have stakes I can insert in the rails, and I always secure the load with a tight chain. Most logs come from within 5 miles, so I usually underload and make more trips.

Magicman · October 09, 2015, 08:54:36 AM

When crosshauling (parbuckling) lay some old tires in the trailer which will reduce the CRASH when the log lands in the trailer bed. ;D

Kingmt · October 13, 2015, 02:23:45 PM

Quote from: WV Sawmiller on October 08, 2015, 11:30:53 PM
6 Acre,

even if I had to drag them off or tie them to a tree and drive out from under them if I did not have any better support equipment.

I work poor & this is how I unload. I tie off to my truck then drive the Tracker pulling the trailer out from under the log. Then I roll it to my mill.

Magicman · October 13, 2015, 07:33:16 PM

Each of the above works and at one time or another, have tried them all. ;D

Tom the Sawyer · October 13, 2015, 07:58:24 PM

If you want them bad enough....

Such a long time ago (1989), tow vehicle was an '86 Honda Civic wagon, folding trailer from Payless Cashways. Ramps made of 2x4s with double-headed nails on the top side to keep logs from sliding. Car and trailer are long gone, I'm much older (and hopefully smarter), but that cant hook has the same handle and is still used everyday.

beenthere · October 13, 2015, 09:32:36 PM

That pic looks like trouble.. if it were a logrite cant hook it would be less trouble.

In the position shown, one slip of that hook and the log rolls back down the steep ramps and the handle holder is in line to be rolled over.. unless very agile.

just sayin.. so others don't duplicate without knowing what can possibly happen.

BCsaw · October 13, 2015, 09:49:06 PM

Having 2 people is so much safer.......if that wasn't obvious. :D

One can hold while the other repositions....and so on. ;D

sawguy21 · October 13, 2015, 10:25:56 PM

He would also be in line for a good smack from the hook. Not a good situation at all.

Brad_bb · October 14, 2015, 02:03:44 AM

Not my trailer, but I like the deck over and parbuckling it on.

Tom the Sawyer · October 14, 2015, 06:22:56 PM

As I said, "if you want them bad enough". I moved many logs with that minimal setup. Yes, it would have been nice to have a truck, a bigger trailer, metal ramps with spring back stops, an electric winch, tons of help, and on, and on, and on. I don't move them that way anymore, I am smarter and not as strong and have come up with a number of more efficient, and safer ways to move logs... or I just say no.

As far as my cant hook, I have had it for about 30 years and it has never failed me or broken. I don't know what brand it is but whoever made it happened on an excellent design. It is still my go-to tool for moving logs and, yes, I own a Logrite. No brand of tool, machine or vehicle is perfect for everyone and, to the best of my knowledge, no one on this forum owned a Logrite in 1989 or even 1999 for that matter. It is a historical photograph.

terrifictimbersllc · October 14, 2015, 06:27:31 PM

Quote from: BCsaw on October 13, 2015, 09:49:06 PM
Having 2 people is so much safer.......if that wasn't obvious. :D

One can hold while the other repositions....and so on. ;D

But then who would take the picture?

deadfall · October 14, 2015, 07:21:25 PM

Quote from: Tom the Sawyer on October 14, 2015, 06:22:56 PM
As far as my cant hook, I have had it for about 30 years and it has never failed me or broken. I don't know what brand it is but whoever made it happened on an excellent design. It is still my go-to tool for moving logs and, yes, I own a Logrite. No brand of tool, machine or vehicle is perfect for everyone and, to the best of my knowledge, no one on this forum owned a Logrite in 1989 or even 1999 for that matter. It is a historical photograph.

When I bought my last wooden cant hook, I already had a big peavy with a new replacement handle (pick of the litter at the industrial supply). When I had my first W-M experience over thirty years ago, it was an LT30 manual, and we bought two wooden cant hooks from W-M at the time. We overloaded that mill many times and grunted some big timbers and way-too-big logs and never busted a cant hook. So when I bought my used LT40HD, I went to W-M for some blades and asked for a cant hook to buy. I was offered one of them newfangled ones and I asked if they still sold the wooden ones. I asked the man if he ever broke one of the wooden ones. He shook his head. I bought the wooden one.

So, it's true that I don't know what I've been missing. But I've never broken a handle that I didn't make myself (trying to save a buck). We just don't have the right wood out here that I know of.