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Author Topic: blade tension on WM  (Read 1769 times)

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Online ladylake

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Re: blade tension on WM
« Reply #20 on: June 08, 2018, 12:43:46 PM »
Obviously this is orange country but this has me thinking about my timber king b20?? They say about 1300 psi for it. Is there that much difference in the mills or can I crank mine up too?
 I tried that once, started breaking bands fast so back to normal.  No problem cutting with the right tension.  Steve
Timberking B20 12000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Dino setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Online petefrom bearswamp

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Re: blade tension on WM
« Reply #21 on: June 08, 2018, 12:49:55 PM »
Thanks for all the input.
I was sawing some 20" plus Norway spruce several years ago producing wavy lumber.
Dave Scott at WM Hannibal suggested .055 blades with the tension cranked all the way up on the gauge.
Still made wavy boards and after a while i heard a loud bang and the tension dropped significantly on the gauge.
The drive side belt was squashed to the steel.
I t was a moderately used b57.
I'm going to try the 6 o'clock method that Lynn uses.
BTW I hate Norway spruce.
Kubota 8540 tractor, Farmi winch
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Polaris 550 Sportsman ATV
1 Husky 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
241 acres of woodland

Offline Chuck White

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Re: blade tension on WM
« Reply #22 on: June 08, 2018, 10:22:48 PM »
Best way I've found to saw Spruce is "more set and reduce feed speed", works for me!
Retired USAF (1989), Retired School Bus Driver (2012), and now a Mobile Sawyer
1995 Wood-Mizer LT40HDG2425 Kohler - Shingle & LapSider, Cooks Cat Claw Sharpener, 4-foot Logrite cant hook.
Basic mechanical skills are all that's required to maintain the Wood-Mizer.

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