Electrically-powered, stationary mill, with hydralic pump operated by AC power.

[wisconsitom]

There it is folks-pretty well summed up what I'm after.....in the next five years or so!  I'd like to end up with as mechanized, automated, hydraulically-enhanced mill I can find/afford, to place up at my tree farm.  There, rapidly growing hybrid larch will be the first species to be harvested, as we seek to thin overcrowded plantings.  This is going to be real nice stuff to mill, albeit, we will be removing the runts and scrubs, not the nicest, straightest stems.

Then a bit later, white and red pine, and perhaps Norway spruce logs will be harvested on that land.  We intend to leave behind legacy trees-probably the best stuff present...but will have many harvest opportunities along the way.

Ultimately, a mill that requires no gas, diesel, or 12-volt battery power.  We'll see how close I get!  Any comments welcome.

wisconsitom

[Southside]

Welcome to the Forum.  As far as band mills go you can order one like that from Wood-Mizer or Baker right now.  In addition, there are older used ones out there like the LT300, LT3500 that are very reasonable.  Plenty of circle mills too, Hurdle comes to mind.  Comes down to how much capacity you need and how much capital you wish to spend.  

[Woodpecker52]

They are sold everyday if you want to see some wild stuff check out woodmizer Europe, or some of the Swedish machines and systems.

[wisconsitom]

Thanks guys.  This is a slow burn.  But eventually, I do intend to get there.  Retirement in 2.25 yrs....I'm going to need something ( a LOT of things, lol) to do!  Appreciate your insights.  Going to look at what goes on in Europe.

Very much like the pro offerings from WM.  Have seen Cook and tend to drool.  Timberking is something I could live with!  I have read words to the effect that, for those for whom stationary is OK, electrically-powered is the clear economical choice.  I also sure wouldn't mind not having exhaust in an enclosed (or partially-enclosed) space that I envision eventually building to house this saw.

Thanks again,
wisconsitom

[moodnacreek]

Will you buy or generate power?  About 5 years ago I finally finished wiring my sawmill [circle]. Took out 3 engines and installed a generator. This is a lot of work and expense but now I have it. Always go heavy, copper, high voltage , at least double or triple what is called for. When you get in operation you will want more machines and if not enough power you will be adding engines instead of electric motors.

[Magicman]

Member Bibbyman converted the hydraulics on his Wood-Mizer LT40 to a stationary AC powered unit.  The conversion is detailed here on the FF.  :P

[wisconsitom]

Moodnacreek, I will be tapping power off of a power pole that is yet to be installed on the site.  That is coming this summer.  I do envision some day wishing to have a planer, and perhaps other outboard gear there as well.  More power!  I think the power plant's got it.  Appreciate your experience and comments.

Magicman, thanks for comments.  Will review Bibbyman's mod.

tom

[Magicman]

Hopefully you will have access to three phase.  ??

[kelLOGg]

What MM said. 3Ph is a must.

[wisconsitom]

So...in that regard, I will be at the mercy of whatever the Oconto Electrical Co-op-a tiny player in the electrical grid world- offers on my road.  I'm going to check and see what the neighbors have.  Thanks for the advice.

tom

[Southside]

Oh  - if you don't have three phase then going electric is not such a good plan after all. 

[sealark37]

The problem of power is not how much your utility has on hand.  The problem is how much, in what form, the utility can, or will, deliver to you.  Do you envision single phase, or three phase electric service?  How much power can be provided to your location through existing lines?  How much will the utility charge to provide three phase, if it is needed?  Before you commit to specific  equipment, you need to be certain of your power source.  Just a thought.   Regards, Clark

[wisconsitom]

Again, this purchase is at a minimum, 2+ years hence.  Probably that is optimistic.  I will have time to investigate the power supply literally years before any money is spent.

This is the part of NE WI where farms give way to forests.  But not quite.  I'm still in the ag belt and there are dairy farms on my road.  Again, this will be ascertained, but I'll bet each one of you guys $100 right now that 3-phase is all over that road.  Just sayin.....

tom

[moodnacreek]

Three phase 480 v is what you want. I tried to get this years ago, it's available, but 2 poles, a right of way for the power co. all inspected, fees to be paid and the clincher- the starting draw meter. When you start 3 ph. motors of any size you can pull up to 6 times the running amps and you get charged extra for this. This charge can be more than the running charge. So unless you run steady it's a generator in this locale.   I was offered 208v 3ph. but that pulls twice the amps of 480v. Your power co. salesman will have the answers.

[patjolson]

Magician 
you live in Brookhaven? 
I went to school at Co-Lin1969 1970

[Magicman]

Take into account wisconsitom, that a rotary phase convertor will make 3ph.  It must be sized correctly but there are many folks here on the FF using them.  Remember that "search" is your friend and will locate much reading.

[kelLOGg]

If you don't have industry or commercial ventures nearby which are most likely to use 3 ph then running the lines for a single customer is shockingly expensive ..maybe ~20 grand I have heard. Again, what MM said - a rotary convertor is a good bet.

[Magicman]

Yes patjolson, we moved to Brookhaven in 1970, so we have been here for quite a while.  I worked for "Ma Bell" until I retired (well actually downsized) in 1994.  I am originally from and my property is in Jefferson County, near the Red Lick Community.

[wisconsitom]

I appreciate the elaboration, and the second option, that of a rotary converter.  So let's see, along this county road....there are farms, there is a machine shop that appears to work only on heavy equipment, and other than that, not much else.  Land is 60 miles due north of where I sit typing.  Bad weather for foreseeable, so not going there this wknd....but I will take a closer look at next opportunity.

Thanks again, and one thing I need to keep in mind is that ultimately, it is going to be down to A)  What I find on the market, and B) What I can afford at that time.  Internal combustion could still be in my future.

Thanks again,
tom

[tacks Y]

Easy to see if 3 phase is on your road look up and count the electric wires. 4 you are good, 3 maybe? things have changed around here. The companies charge for every thing, and a demand charge on commercial accounts. There was a WM mill at auction here that was changed over to ac, should have bought it went cheap.

[wisconsitom]

tacks Y,

Thank you.  I pretty much thought that, and will ascertain.  One thing that appears to be happening all over that rural township is some kind of electrical upgrade.  While I hate seeing this-we're losing a lot of roadside trees to this project all over that area....it may also mean better power distribution thru that hard-scrabble area (which also contains mega-farms and their millionaire owners!).  Many new poles are going up roadside, although not on our road at present.

Will check-thanks again.

tom

ps....farms in region range from tough-luck, going out of business-type operations with gullied, eroded fields and cattle on their last legs....to these mega-operators, one of whom rented field next to me and for two consecutive years managed to drift a fair amount of glyphosate onto my young trees along that boundary.  I was the very model of patience, simply requesting he not do this a second year, no damages requested.  Then he did it again, and I started a successful case with DATCP (Dept. Ag, Trade, Consumer Protection) which has had the desired result-he no longer rents that field!

[YellowHammer]

I run phase converters, the bigger they are the more expensive.  I love the simplicity of electricity and the power of three phase. 

Utility electrical 3 phase power gets real expensive real fast.  I have three buildings, I pay for three single phase meters.  I tried to get all three phase run to my place, my utility company manager laughed and said the nearest three phase is far enough away my grandkids would still be paying it off.  I'd have to pay for new poles, spreaders, insulators and install for the whole run.  Once you get three phase to your site, you must use professionally installed (code requirement) transformers, which, depending on size, can cost up to and exceeding $10,000 for the full install, including drops, breakers, boxes, enclosures, concrete pads, etc.  This is information forwarded to me from my power company, yours may differ.

The very high expense of utility company delivered 3 phase to my business is a hurdle I can't overcome.  I would talk closely to your power company, and have them do the reasearch to tell you what would be the total actual usable cost for the full install.  Remember, 3 phase to a power pole on your property is only a part of the battle, getting it from there to three wires you can hook up to your machine is expensive, also.  

     

[wisconsitom]

Very helpful, YellowHammer.  It appears I will be delving into phase converters indeed!  My planned hobby/side business will in no way, shape or form be "profitable" in anything like the short-term.

Talks with power co. staff is surely forthcoming!

tom

[pineywoods]

Local sawyer runs just such a mill. Woodmizer LT40 with a 25 hp electric motor and 2 hp electric motor replacing the 12 volt dc motor in the standard lt40 hydraulics. Full woodmizer options.  Mill has over 17000 hrs, still going strong.

[bandmiller2]

Tom, do your grid homework pure three phase power is the best but expensive to install. A band mill with an available 10 hp single phase motor will turn the trick especially if parasitic loads like hydraulic pumps, sawdust blowers and debarkers are run with different motors. Your winters are cold and windy with electric you can have a tight and heated building, no exhaust fumes. My milling machine has a three phase motor I have run it for 25 years with a rotary converter of my own manufacture from a three phase motor and capacitors. Google three phase rotary converters theirs a lot of information. Simple is good 10 hp is the largest commonly available single phase electric motor. My band mill has a 15 hp Baldor three phase motor that drives the band and a hydraulic pump I have scads of power and it just gets barely warm to the touch. Frank C.

[Magicman]

Member @paul case is running two LT40's with rotary converters.

[wisconsitom]

Thanks much, Frank C. and Magicman.  Your input is going to be of great help as I put this together in my mind.  I have seen a Youtube video series wherein the couple have a very nice setup-all electric WM and hydro attachments...in a tight building somewhere in the northern tier.  Beautiful installation...I may be lucky to ever afford half so nice.  But I sure appreciate the basic premise, and it is a good target to shoot for-a totally-enclosed shop with this type of setup.

Thanks again gentlemen.
tom

[Al_Smith]

I've made converters as large as 20 HP .Generally speaking a properly designed converter will start up to it's rating and run up to three times it's rating .All they are is a three phase motor and a few capacitors ,in essence an induction generator .--Google is your friend ---- 

[wisconsitom]

Thanks Al.

tom

[tmbrcruiser]

I was at the same place you are 3.5 years ago. I have a large tree farm and access to very good logs. Plan was for a retirement/ hobby mill. I wanted to be able to mill logs and offer finished lumber to builders and other buyers. Starting out I knew electric was my preferred power. I purchase a 3650E Baker and 20 hp edger. I started with single phase 480V power and now use one small rotary phase converter for the edger and hydraulic pack. The mill and dust blower are each run by separate variable frequency drives. This is an odd system but works very well. The problem with large motors is the draw upon start up, after they are running they are great. The power company offer their help with VFD and I rejected their offer, in favor of independence. They were requiring soft starts for each motor, this is the reason for separate forms of power conversion. The saving grace is my electric bills have never reached $150.00 for the month. Pay up front or every month.

With the decision to be stationary and electric a building should be the first part of your plan mill second. Best thing to keep in mind is the plan will change and you will end up following something completely different than you first envisioned. Good luck.

[Al_Smith]

Although I've never had to it on my own stuff you can use reduced voltage starting for higher HP electric motors .For example using 240 volts to start the rotational process can reduce the starting amperage to about 1/4 as full 480 volt  line method .You could Google that too . This method is old as the hills and often used on rural grain elevators to start feed mills with maybe 50 HP motors .They might be be listed under "compensater start " 
There are others like part winding start ,Wye/delta start  etc .Google again .
Now keep in mind if you go this method you are going to need a few magnetic starters ,a few relays and some transformers and a bunch of control wiring.
Although it's not a problem for me it could be for others .Be careful. 

[wisconsitom]

Thanks Al.  I'm going to sum this info up prior to talking to power co.

tom

[Hilltop366]

I know little about electric motors and even less about 3 phase so I'm going to ask.

Could one use a smaller motor to start spinning the larger one before turning on the power supply to it?

[muggs]

I know little about electric motors and even less about 3 phase so I'm going to ask.

Could one use a smaller motor to start spinning the larger one before turning on the power supply to it?

Yes that will reduce the inrush current.   Muggs

[PAmizerman]

Thanks much, Frank C. and Magicman.  Your input is going to be of great help as I put this together in my mind.  I have seen a Youtube video series wherein the couple have a very nice setup-all electric WM and hydro attachments...in a tight building somewhere in the northern tier.  Beautiful installation...I may be lucky to ever afford half so nice.  But I sure appreciate the basic premise, and it is a good target to shoot for-a totally-enclosed shop with this type of setup.

Thanks again gentlemen.
tom

If you are referring to the couple I think you are that would be @ElectricAl ?

[wisconsitom]

'spect you're right.  Thanks for the pointer.

Here's another brain fart for y'all to imagine..an electric/hydro setup, in one of those metal arch buildings, on slab of course, with no ends on metal arch building.  Logs are brought in at what I'll call the "front" of the mill, and return fingers take the boards back the other direction, which being left open, can accommodate whatever next phase may be.

I've always had a hankering for a quonset hut or one of these metal arch versions.  I think a sawmill inside of one of those buildings might be a good fit.  And again...with the concept of leaving the ends off, minus whatever bracing may be needed.

They've got snow load ratings for those items as well.  I've also seen collapsed units, lol.

tom

[Southside]

That would require a lot of floor space to be able to maneuver your log handling equipment to get to the mill.  It is easier to have an open side / beam span on a building where you logs enter the mill parallel to the mill and lumber flows in straight lines with lateral transition to further processing if you have run out of length.  Better floor space utilization.  

[paul case]

Member @paul case is running two LT40's with rotary converters.

Yes I do.
If ya want to road trip to Oklahoma, I will show you how they work and try to get you to take one home with ya.
I wouldn't mind upgrading.
PC

[Stuart Caruk]

When I built my shop 25 years or so ago, it cost about $36,000 more to run 3 phase the 3/4 mile from the road to my shop, so I ran a 1000 amp 240 VAC service for around $5600. Back the the PUD provided the cables and transformers, and I dug the ditches. Had I only known how cool real 3 phase was... 13 years ago I added a shop on the corner of my property. A simple 600 AMP 240VAC service cost me $14,000 and I only had to go 75 feet from the 7200 volt feeder. I checked a couple years ago about getting real 3 phase to my shop and the quote was around $156,000. I bought another 9 .2 acre lot with 3 phase power for less.

I run my shop with 2 home brewed rotary converters. The converters feed their own real 3 phase panels and for all intents and purposes work exactly as the PUD would supply the power. One is made form a 25HP 3 phase motor with a kicker motor to start it. It runs all the simple 3 phase stuf. Lather, drill press grinders, etc. I have another one made for a 100HP motor, with a kicker to start it, and a bunch or oil filled run caps to balance it out. It feeds a panel and 4 transformers so I ultimately have 240 3 phase, 480 3 phase, 208 3 phase, and 575 3 phase. I run a host of large CNC mills and lathes with upwards of 50 HP spindles and never had a lick of problems. Not even the Integrex that theoretically requires 80 KVA.

There is absolutely no reason to shy away from 3 phase equipment on single phase power. If you could wire up a light bulb, and you can weld, you can probably put together a phase converter. It's simple.

The best part is that you can buy industrial equipment for cheap because most people shy away from it.

[Al_Smith]

Another option could be a simple capacitor start circuit to run a 3 phase motor on single phase without a rotary .The draw back being you only get about 60% of usable HP out of them .If you go that route you'll need around 7.5 microfarad run caps per HP on 240 volt  to keep from over heating the motor .It's not the best option but could work depending on the application.You can google that one also .

[Al_Smith]

Rotarys confuse people .A misconception is you are paying the power bill for two motors but only using one but that's not the case .At 240 volts the rule of thump is 2.5 amps per HP which on a 10 HP would be 25 amps .The load motor would indeed be 25 amps  at full load but the pony will only be around 10 amps .Kind of hard to explain because you have to delve into Kirchoffs law .I understand it but have a hard time explaining it .

[Al_Smith]

A little side note .The guy that showed me all this stuff was one of the smartest I've ever seen. He "grand fathered " his professional engineering status when Ohio first came out with it and never went to engineering school .
Years ago in this area of Ohio the oil wells got down to "strippers " low producing .Maybe less than 10 barrels a week .They all had big huge flywheel engines which were a problem especially in winter time .This old boy electrified them using three phase motors he bought for a dollar a HP .Although he could have wired them automatic start he kept them manual and collected a service fee driving a route where he started them manually and set a timer for the run time depending on the well output .

Eventually the demand and use for the high sulphur Ohio sour  black crude oil dropped off and that ended that .Although I might add the oil is still down there .Stinks to high heavens too .

[wisconsitom]

Thanks much Al.  You know more than I can even think to ask questions about.  So here, with me not even owning the mill yet-whatever mill that ends up being...I have much to think about, so much so that I'm going to just squirrel this AC info away for now, but will surely return later when I get closer to what I'm going to be doing/needing.  But on that subject of need, I have clarified in my mind just what kind of mill I will actually require.  Basically, all I can justify at this time is a machine on the level of a LT-15.  Something like an LT-20 would be grand, but I could do all I will need to do on the simpler machine.  However, I wouldn't mind a few mods;

 1).  Debarker.  Does anyone put these on LT-15s?
 2).  I will be primarily milling relatively small softwood logs for quite some time, as I do mostly TSI and thinning in my own plantation.  Primarily the hybrid larch, which is growing much faster than the other softwoods.
  3)  Then just a bit down the road, much use in sawing hybrid aspen clones, some of which are being developed to feature figured grain.  Just as with the larch, I may wish to produce "prototypes" for my collaborators/potential customers....of siding, paneling, rails, decking boards, beams, etc.  I won't need to saw any humongous stuff for some years to come.
  4).  Still want all electric...and if any automation, hydraulic.
  5).  Plan to erect a pole building with two sides walled, what I'll call the "back" side enclosed, as well as the "end" side where the saw headrig will be parked.  then, the other two side will be clearspan to an extent, to allow log loading, junk/sawdust removal, etc.  Probably engineer to have open side facing S.  Because smaller saw unit, pad will be perhaps be just 24' by 12'....or will expand to 30' by 20'...somewhere in there.

Hope this helps to clear up what I'm trying to get at.  Just one final thought;  Watching many youtube vids of WM's, Norwoods, etc....have to admit that while I like the technical beauty of the WM machines, the placement of the push bar (I don't like that WM crank) on the Norwoods seems to be better than the spot where you have to crane your neck with the WM's.  With the Norwoods, it seems easier for the guy pushing the unit along to simply be able to view what is happening with the saw blade.  At least, that's how it looks when I watch videos.  Comments?

Thanks,
tom

[Al_Smith]

As far as DIY stuff you're only limited by skill set and imagination .I've seen vids of some real creative stuff .
Then you have to figure out what you're going to do with the thing .Hobby sawing,portable for hire etc .
It would be a lot of work and dumpster diving to build a fully hydraulic mill in my opinion .If you bought all the components new you'd have a fortune in it .

I've got a mill partially built .Tracks and carriage are almost done .28 feet truck frame that used to haul NFL footballs all over the country .The blade  and set works to go .Choice of power from 18 HP Briggs,31 HP Wisconsin ,10 HP electric etc .I toyed with the idea of hydraulics but no more than I will saw it probably isn't worth the effort .Movable but not portable because I have no intent of traveling 3 counties to saw up peoples yard trees because I'm such a nice guy .Progress however has ground to a halt due to several reasons and my log pile is getting bigger but no lumber so far .Even retired now there just doesn't seem to be enough hours in the day .Besides that it's cold out ,Ohio you know .Does that every year and I've lost my enthusiasm for freezing my behind off .

[wisconsitom]

Thanks again sir.  Now I happen to love being out during most winter days....but this is ridiculous.  Below-zero (Fahrenheit) it gets to be not worth the trouble.  But I tend trees in my woods and plantation areas all the time in winter.

I think I now have my plans set, and it is much to do with goals, where I think I am going to sit in the scheme of things....and yes, I too have zero interest in sawing up somebody's crotchy maple tree out of their yard "for a tabletop".  Just not where my interest lies.  Maybe a few such projects could come, but yeah, nails, etc.....

What I do want to be able to do is saw material from my own growing stock, periodically as we thin stands and do TSI.  All I will need for that is a machine on the order of the LT15.  I think I like the new, wide version, as much for the other upgrades as for the "wide".  I think what I really need to do at this point is plan my shed.

tom

[TKehl]

It sounds like you'd rather be tending trees than fabricating a debarker.  Kind of like the build threads.  (Most of the builds are years long.)  Yes it can all be done.  But, would you like the building and tuning part or do you actually want to run a sawmill and how much is your time worth?  From what I'm hearing, I would skip trying to modify the manual mills and buy the lowest end mill with computer setworks, hydraulics, debarker, and an electric motor.  (I bet most manufacturers would put an electric on it by request even if not listed on standard products.  Or look for a used mill with a blown or tired motor perhaps.)
 
The other path I could see would be to run a more manual mill or a scragg to break down into cants, then run through a resaw, maybe a multi headed one. 
 
Either way, don't forget handling the lumber afterward.  Good roller conveyor can save a lot of labor and avoid bottlenecks.
 
Mostly depends on size of logs and what volume you plan for.

[wisconsitom]

Thanks T, and you're right...in all periods of my life up to and including the present,  I am and would be described by many as a "grower"...one who grows many plants for many purposes and who is primarily trained/educated in that area of horticulture.  What I am going to be when I do get a saw is a "serious hobbyist" with not one, but two potential areas of significant outreach to the industry as a whole.  Those two facets are my rapidly-burgeoning hybrid larch plantation, and associated research group in Maine-and associated other pine-family members.....with which I intend to thin and make stuff out of thinned stems.....and then, just a bit later, a significant stand or stands of a hybrid aspen may arise on my site...one bred to, among other things, have figured grain.

It could be of great value for me to be able to continually saw up "samples" of such items as interior paneling (with figured grain!), clapboard siding (With a siding jig), decking boards, and the like.  We may be in a position, as time goes on, to be looking for large-scale buy-in to either of these two agendas.  We've (aspen group) lost the Weyerhaueser funding for the time being, but may get it back.

And of course, as we continue to develop that property, more opportunities to use our own material will arise.

My property is too small for me to cut and manufacture just from that site forever....but there will be such operations as the removal of every other row in those larch blocks...in just a few years.  That could generate significant amounts of smaller-diameter logs.  I think that given I'm 62 now...and will retire in 2021...it is likely that for the remainder of my time here, it will be this TSI work and plantation thinning that will occupy much of my time...and any need for the saw.

Thanks,
Tom

[wisconsitom]

Up at farm the other day...there is just single-phase there.  Now down the road a piece, nearer the state highway, there is a short run of 3-phase, service going to that machine shop, a fabricating shop, and then it ends.  That's a good 2 and1/2 miles from me.  I owe several of you $100!

Looking at WM boilerplate, they list electric motors for single-phase as well as for 3-phase.  What's going on there?

Thanks,
tom

[TKehl]

Not sure I follow your question...  They will be different motors.  Pick the one that fits your electric feed.  More than just changing the junction box wires.  

[Al_Smith]

I'd imagine WM is just offering several options available .Single phase would not have the higher starting torque obviously but once running would have same power output .
Although many want to argue about it the rule of thumb is it takes around two HP gasoline to replace one HP electric .Now keeping in mind both electric motors and gasoline engines can be rated by questionable methods which is a subject all on it's own .The rule on electric motors is 746 watts per HP at 100 percent power factor .You can Google all this stuff .

[wisconsitom]

So...in my single-phase situation there...I am choosing the motor that "says" single-phase?  Or am I planning to use rotary phase conv. and choosing 3-phase option (in my 3-years-from-now saw buy)?

A little dim here.  You guys can help.  I am willing to get set up for best future options, but not at thousands of these $$$.  Talked to my electrician-nephew just now-he does mainly commercial, which around here tends to be big barns.  Mentioned some high costs for phase converters he's installed. Prohibitive.  In the thousands of dollars.

Thanks,
tom

[Southside]

You are not likely to find anything single phase over 10hp on the commercial market, yes there are guys who build them bigger, but WM is not going to have that for sale.  A rotary converter will allow you to use single phase 240V utility power and run a three phase motor using it.  You do have to make sure your converter will output the same voltage as the motor you will run or have a motor with multiple voltage rating (also called taps), which is usually the case, 208V, 460V.  

The other option is a dedicated generator that sits outside of your mill house and consumes diesel.  This gets you away from converters, utility construction costs, even basic service to your building if you don't want it.  Lights can be run on 277V three phase and a transformer can get you 240V single phase so you could have your own power plant or a hybrid of grid single phase and generated three phase.  With the tier 4 upgrade requirements these days you can get a pretty big generator with very low hours for not much money.  

Kinda getting out of DIY territory here if you aren't comfortable with wiring.  

[Al_Smith]

If you purchase a commercial built rotary converter it's like buying a commercial log splitter .it's going to cost-a- plenty .If you make one it's relatively inexpensive and does the same thing .
One I built which was 15 HP the motor cost the guy $100 .I had the magnetic starter ,electrolytic start  capacitor,the oil filled run capacitors,plus push buttons relays etc so that's all he had in it .
The last one I built all I had in it was my time because I got the 10 HP motor for free,bad bearings,noisey .It's in Dowagiac Mich running an "iron worker " punch press for an old submarine buddy of mine .He did replace the bearings,got tired of the noise . :D------like I said it's an option . It's a junk yard dawg thing .Some have it and some don't .

[TKehl]

95+% of the time it's best to just go with single phase and call it good if all else is equal.  K.I.S.S.  😉
 
Reasons not to go with single phase motor:
 

•  You eventually need more than 10 HP on the mill.  (As larger single phase generally aren't available.) 
• You plan to have other equipment that requires 3 phase anyway.

 
Even if one of the two is true, you may still want to get the single phase mill until you need to upgrade.  Single phase should have better resale than 3 phase FWIW.  I like finding old three phase woodworking and machining equipment simple because it sells CHEAP since it's less familiar to wire up.

[Al_Smith]

This is the most simplified wiring diagram I could find on the internet .I do it a little different in that the run caps are only used between the manufactured and one phase but not both although it work either way .If the manufactured phase is lower than the incoming it needs more capacitance ,too high less .On 240 volt it equates to around 7.5 microfarad per HP oil caps .

[Hilltop366]

Following along and trying to learn more about 3 phase and converters got me to a website for North American Phase Converter Company where the have a " Smart boost digital phase converter" that seems like a regular phase converter with a added load sensor and large start capacitor to reduce the need to over size the converter for starting.

Although they are not junk yard prices I thought the prices were not too crazy for for something that you would not be afraid to show your electrical inspector or insurance inspector or perhaps its just a slick sales pitch I don't know enough about it to tell the difference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=165&v=pO5vpP-wBKM

[Al_Smith]

 :D That guy was pulling your leg .Look at the vid clip again and notice the unloader on the compressor .For those who don't know an unloader vents the compressor head pressure off on start up . Other than that it looks fine .

Here's another thing they don't tell you .For example you have a 10 HP converter which will start up to 10 HP and run up to three times that amount .You start up another 10 then a 5 after that . By having other motors on line you also get the induced EMF added to the line from those motors on the "dummy " phase .
I've only got a 5 HP in my shop but I've ran up to 7.5 HP from it .Two 3 HP and a 1/2 HP Bridgeport milling machine .Fact I once forgot to throw the switch on a big old ugly 1920 vintage metal lathe  and started the converter plus the 3 HP on the lathe at the same time .Never even dimmed the lights .

[Hilltop366]

Yup I know about the unloader on compressors, just wondering about the rest. Thanks.