Heating Mill Shed

[DR Buck]

Winter is almost here in VA  :(  and I've broken out the insulated coveralls for sawing as it gets colder outside.  However, I hope to do most of my own sawing in the barn (currently being converted into a mill shed) where I will be out of the wind, rain and SNOW.  

Question I have are:   ???

Do you have heat in you mill shed?  If so, how do you heat?  

What precautions do you take to prevent fire, saw dust explosion, etc.?

[WH_Conley]

I have used a reddy heater in the past on circle mill, but I don't think I want one blowing on me and the sawdust on the WM. Might consider just boxing up a small area to run to every little while to warm up

[Murf]

I helped a friend make a duct system for his Foley M14, it is designed to be run off the PTO of a tractor but instead he rigged it run off a small 4 cyl. diesel from an import truck.

All we did was make up a duct and stat-controlled blower so that the warm air off the radiator could be blown into the mill shed.

It never gets very warm in there but it sure beats the great outdoors.

I presume you could run the exhaust off a small engine outside through a heat exchanger and then seal up the shed a little better. Between heat scavenged off the exhaust and the cooling it would help some.

[Gary_C]

A few weeks ago, I met a Woodmizer owner in Northern Minnesota. He had built his saw shed with floor heat and had a very large Classic boiler outside that heated his entire saw shed, house, and kiln. Said he saws with the south doors open most days and when he opens all doors in the winter to move in logs or lumber out, as soon as he closes the doors, it is right back up to 70 degrees again.  He also kept the mill area spotless with an electric leaf blower he found in the trash. There was not even a speck of dust or bark anywhere.

Floor heat gets my vote.

[Danny_S]

I agree with Gary, Floor heat. We had a heated floor at the reman centre that I worked at and having warm feet seems to keep your whole body warm. It also helps melt and dry up snow and frozen sawdust around equipment at makes it alot easier to clean up. Nothing worse than a bunch of frozen sawdust and woodbark under a peice of machinery and a sproket blow it's guts out underneath. Then ya gots to break up all that frozen crap and lie on it to fix the machine. I have been in my t-shirt fixin stuff under the moulder in the middle of winter.

[Dangerous_Dan]

I agree. A heated floor is the best way to go. I have one in my shop and I love it. I have an underground fire box thats 5 x 5 x 8 feet deep with a very large door. The chimney fumes go through a large heat exchanger thats really for recovering lost heat going up the chimney on a steam boiler in a large factory. It works great and even on the coldest days here in NJ, I have the windows open for some fresh air. I like to keep my shop at 75 degrees. I used 2 loops of 5/8 pex-al-pex tubing, I think it was a total of 1000 feet - 2   500 foot loops. Total cost was about $1200 for all the pipe and fittings 6 years ago. My shop is 1500sqft. The main line from the funace is 1 inch. I also have a water to air exchanger that blows off hot air. Check into it, you will like it!

[FiremanEd]

The in floor heat is great UNLESS,, you have a dust blower. The I know a guy who put all the money into a 1800sq ft building's in floor heat and outdoor furnace. Had it all installed and working great. Then he fired up the 20 hp sawdust blower and couldn't figure out why the warm floor wouldn't work. He was sucking many thousands of cubic ft of air through the building a minute. There was no way an in floor system was gonna keep him warm. He ran the furnace for a week, then antifreezed it and told his crew to bring in their carharts.

I think, but have not tried it, that a couple huge truck radiators with electric fans hooked to an outdoor furnace with such high heat potential could compensate for the air exchange. We may try it but so far we're still doing the carhart thing.

[rvrdivr]

I was thinking about putting a potbelly or a larger franklin stove in my barn when I get it done. It won't heat the whole thing but it will help take the bite out of the freezing cold 50 degree days we have down here. ;D  
I wood think the saw dust would be wet enough so a flash-fire or flash-over would not be an issue with an open flame near. Something to think about though. ???
I can't wait for summer...95 degree's and 95% humidity ;) ;D

[etat]

It won't heat the whole thing but it will help take the bite out of the freezing cold 50 degree days we have down here

 :D :D :D :D :D

[WH_Conley]

OH THE MISERY OF OT ALL.

[HOGFARMER]

Something to start thinking about.  Has anyone else got some unique method?

[logwalker]

Outdoor boiler and hydronic in the floor. Doesn't get any better in my book. Any other ideas? Joe

[logwalker]

The in floor heat is great UNLESS,, you have a dust blower. The I know a guy who put all the money into a 1800sq ft building's in floor heat and outdoor furnace. Had it all installed and working great. Then he fired up the 20 hp sawdust blower and couldn't figure out why the warm floor wouldn't work. He was sucking many thousands of cubic ft of air through the building a minute. There was no way an in floor system was gonna keep him warm. He ran the furnace for a week, then antifreezed it and told his crew to bring in their carharts.

I think, but have not tried it, that a couple huge truck radiators with electric fans hooked to an outdoor furnace with such high heat potential could compensate for the air exchange. We may try it but so far we're still doing the carhart thing.

In this case you could run it thru an insulated cyclone then filter it and return it to the shop area. Make sense? Joe

[Tom]

I wouldn't put a live fire within a mile of a saw shed.  One spark in the sawdust can smolder for days before it finally decides to take the place down.   Electric heat or jackets and long johns would be my choice.  If it's too cold for that, I'd stay in the house.

[timberfaller390]

I wouldn't put a live fire within a mile of a saw shed. 

I'd say at least 5 miles

[ladylake]

All you southerners can talk smart but you never get a day off cuz it's to cold.   Steve

[timberfaller390]

We've had a few 0 degree and minus degree days here in the mountains but I'm sure nothing like what yall get.

[mike_van]

When you aren't counting on the mill to pay the bills, you can just say 'I quit, it's too cold'  And I do too, When it gets down to 15F and colder, it;s so hard on the machinery, grease & gearoil are almost solid.  Last winter I had to saw some stuff for a real good customer, I had to point a salamander heater at the head drive, to get it warm enough to run. it was about 10F that day. My sheds open 9x40 ft to the SW, whatever heat I did try wasn't going to stay long. Cement slab too, colder than a welldrillers butt in the Klondike!  :D

[ladylake]

+ 10 in the morning is about as cold as I saw, I'd rather have that than 90 and humid.   Steve

[beenthere]

Burlkraft pulled in with his WM mill last day of November last, and it was -6° F. I was of the mind he'd make that decision to not go to the extra trouble, just for a couple elm logs and the lumber.
NOT! : : :  Right out in the open with a good wind blowing too. He's tough. 

But, that was the last day all winter that we didn't have snow on the ground, as it dropped about 12" that night and the next day. Turned out not too bad after getting the rig leveled and turning the logs and working up some heat in the old body. Were done in time to get to the Rox for lunch.

[backwoods sawyer]

Burlkraft pulled in with his WM mill last day of November last, and it was -6° F. I was of the mind he'd make that decision to not go to the extra trouble, just for a couple elm logs and the lumber.
NOT! : : :  Right out in the open with a good wind blowing too. He's tough. 

But, that was the last day all winter that we didn't have snow on the ground, as it dropped about 12" that night and the next day. Turned out not too bad after getting the rig leveled and turning the logs and working up some heat in the old body. Were done in time to get to the Rox for lunch.

Put on good warm cloths, take it easy on your equipment, and keep all of your equipment well lubed. I use thinner oil in the winter for lubing all moving parts, and the rail. I also use a wide spectrum hydraulic oil that is good for very hot days and very cold days, if you don't, just be sure to change over to your winter oil. Use saws with less hook angle and at the end of the day take the time to drain and blow out the lube mizer system so it will not freeze. Keep the hot coffee handy, your belly full and enjoy the brisk temperatures.

Of coarse this advise is coming from someone who worked for a water company for several years where you could expect to have the equipment out thawing meters when it got down to -20 and a 50 mph wind was blowing down out of Canada. You just have to dress for the cold and enjoy the wonders that come along with it like crystallized breath.

[Tom]

I guess that is a fault of some of us Southern fellows. We just aren't that dedicated.  Chasing the dollar has to stop somewhere.  If I was where it got that cold, unless someones life depended upon it, I'd go into the house, drink a cup of hot chocolate and visit with the lady of the house.

In my mind, putting one's health or life in jeopardy for a few bucks, isn't worth it.  Thinking on it a bit, I guess that makes me real glad I live down here, where making that decision doesn't mar my reputation.

[ladylake]

I guess that is a fault of some of us Southern fellows. We just aren't that dedicated.  Chasing the dollar has to stop somewhere.  If I was where it got that cold, unless someones life depended upon it, I'd go into the house, drink a cup of hot chocolate and visit with the lady of the house.

In my mind, putting one's health or life in jeopardy for a few bucks, isn't worth it.  Thinking on it a bit, I guess that makes me real glad I live down here, where making that decision doesn't mar my reputation.

Hey Tom   Up here 10 above in the morning warming up to 15 or 20 is a nice balmy day. My mill works pretty good at 10 and above, much of what backwoods said. I might be drinking something besides coffee, sometimes.   Steve

[WH_Conley]

When it cost me more to saw than what I make, I quit.

Unless it is someting for a friend or a coffin, something like that.

Most of the logs I get in that time of year are encased in mud, which turns to stone on the shady side of the hill.

[bandmiller2]

At the mill ,WMlt70,where I'am a part time sawyer we have a cement floor with radiant floor heat in a tight barn,thats the cats pooper.My old circle mill had an engine enclosure that i could duct warm air from the diesel to my position,quite comfy.Maine lobstermen have a little trick they makeup a heated floor two pieces of diamond tred with engine coolent inside ,when your feet are warm your warm.all of the above no fire danger. Frank C.

[SCSawyer]

I bought one of the kits sold to turn 55 gal drums into heaters and bought the double barrel one  and built a small room off the back of the mill shed that is kept clean "no dust or chips" got as squirrel cage sitting behind it has worked for years no worrys. but as every one knows theres always a chance , but I am very careful with it. also great for getting rid of slabs .JUST THOUGH THIS MIGHT BE HELPFUL SINCE WINTER IS ON ITS WAY AGAIN

[bandmiller2]

Up north if you can block the wind and have a south facing mill you can be quite comfortable all winter,no skeeters.Personal thing but I'd sooner cut in the 20's than the 90's no runny pine pitch ether.Frank C.

[maineframer]

Unless it is 15 degrees or colder the zoot-suit stays on the hook.
Saw in the sun October-April. Saw in the shade May-September.
It is supposed to be a colder than average winter in the Northeast------
Must be GLOBAL WARMING ;)