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Blade Guide Arm hitting clamp close to the deck

Started by WV Sawmiller, July 24, 2015, 01:10:13 PM

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WV Sawmiller

   One trick I have recently learned (most of you probably pick up on things like this faster than me) is that when cutting that last board or two off a cant and the if it turns out the clamp is just a fudge too high to let the blade guide guard on my LT35 pass is simply open the blade guide arm a few more inches. This gives me about another half inch of clearance which is often just enough for the blade to squeak past the top of the clamp.

   Previously I was stopping the head and backing it out with the result the blade was often pulled off the rollers and the associated pain of wedging the board and backing the blade out by hand. And all along all I really needed was 1/4" extra clearance. The blade would clear but not the guide. I accidently neglected to close the guide far enough on a board the other day and noticed the guard just passed by but the blade went on over with no problem. Should have been watching for this sooner.

   Another trick I learned when backing a blade out is to be sure to keep the blade engaged and turning and pause periodically. That lets the blade re-track on the rollers if it does start to slip off.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

deadfall

I have taken that little blade guide detour to get clear.  This was actually demonstrated when I got my first W-M, way back when...  ...when the clamp was a steel cam in a pivot hole.   
 
In these days of hydraulic clamps, I have also trimmed some aluminum when I blew the judgment call.  I hate it when I am cutting something soft and I try to clamp it too low and take a bite out of the cant.  Now the place to clamp low is gone and I must slide the cant to where I can get another grip, and not do it again, take out that bite. 

Getting back out of a cut has never been a favorite pastime.  I've had serious problems with a moving blade coming off.  It usually munges a few teeth.  It's hard to plow wet sawdust out of the way.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

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Happy for no reason.

Ga Mtn Man

You are just begging for a damaged/destroyed blade by backing out of the cut with the blade running.  Much better to stop the blade and open the kerf with a wedge.  Just my two cents, for what it's worth. :) 
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

deadfall

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on July 24, 2015, 01:47:40 PM
You are just begging for a damaged/destroyed blade by backing out of the cut with the blade running.  Much better to stop the blade and open the kerf with a wedge.  Just my two cents, for what it's worth. :)

I'm with him.  Backing a moving blade never formed a habit with me.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

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Happy for no reason.

Magicman

I would never try to back out of a cut with the blade engaged.  I uses my hatchet or plastic wedges to raise the uncut board and often clean the sawdust out of the kerf with a section of broken blade.

My blade guide arm is powered, so I always hit the switch and move it out and back in on the last 1" cut.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

deadfall

Quote from: Magicman on July 24, 2015, 01:59:33 PM
...clean the sawdust out of the kerf with a section of broken blade.

Thanks for that, MM.  Well worth the price of today's admission.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

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Happy for no reason.

Kbeitz

I back out with my blade turning.
But I slow the carrage down to a crawl...
So slow that If I see a problem that I have time to stop.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

deadfall

Backing with my LT-40 is full speed astern only.  No speed control that way.  Actually, it's All Back Emergency!  It returns faster than full speed ahead.  I haven't had to try backing with the blade moving very many times to see it doesn't work for me.
W-M LT40HD -- Siding Attachment -- Lathe-Mizer -- Ancient PTO Buzz Saw

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Happy for no reason.

4x4American

...give me 40 acres to turn this truck around...
Boy, back in my day..

Brucer

Like Magicman, I use a broken piece of blade to clear the sawdust from the kerf if I have to back out. I keep a 4' length of modified blade as a standard "tool". First thing I do is hammer all the set teeth flat -- this reduces the friction when I'm pulling packed sawdust out of the kerf. Then I use a mill file to make sure all the teeth are seriously dull -- this prevents the teeth from catching on the wood and also protects my hands. Finally, I use a mini-grinder to round off the broken corners at each end of the blade fragment, and round the end that I'm going to push into the kerf.

This tool is best used before you try backing out the blade and find you can't do it.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

Magicman

Yours sounds exactly like mine.  It's a tool.   smiley_thumbsup
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WV Sawmiller

Haven't made such a tool yet but I will first keep my eye open for a piece of 1-1/4" banding/strapping like we used to to brace rolls of paper in boxcars and trucks. We also used in in USMC in my warehouse for assorted bracing. My warehouse chief even used a bunch to reinforce our embark boxes we kept our field supplies in. When he was done they were some tough boxes. Anyway, it is just like a saw blade with no teeth. So far I have only broken one band and it went to the scrap dealer on a general clean up a few weeks back. (I've ruined a bunch but they went to WM on the re-sharp/exchange and replace program).
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Percy

Quote from: Brucer on July 24, 2015, 10:43:27 PM
Like Magicman, I use a broken piece of blade to clear the sawdust from the kerf if I have to back out. I keep a 4' length of modified blade as a standard "tool". First thing I do is hammer all the set teeth flat -- this reduces the friction when I'm pulling packed sawdust out of the kerf. Then I use a mill file to make sure all the teeth are seriously dull -- this prevents the teeth from catching on the wood and also protects my hands. Finally, I use a mini-grinder to round off the broken corners at each end of the blade fragment, and round the end that I'm going to push into the kerf.

This tool is best used before you try backing out the blade and find you can't do it.
I have one very similar to yours.....cept for a few  features...I bleed alot.. :D
GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

pineywoods

1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

drobertson

Yea, backing out while running is much like playing Lotto, you loose more than you win,  you might win a free ticket once in a while but you spent twice the amount for the fun of it. ;D   Wedge by some means followed by patience.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Percy

GOLDEN RULE : The guy with the gold, makes the rules.

WV Sawmiller

Thanks for the advise. I will keep it in mind when backing out of a cut. I keep a wedge and a long spud bar with me so I will be sure to wedge the cut good every time before backing out.

If I do keep the blade turning (which I find helps keep it tracking on the rollers and less likely to jump track, I may choose to accept the risk), I will be sure to keep the travel speed real slow, which I do anyway. Evidently my mill will reverse at a more controllable speed than some mentioned above.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Nomad

  I also use a broken blade to clean out the sawdust.  but a pruning saw works real well too, and is even easier to handle. ;D
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

4x4American

The blade pops off easily when its spinning, when the blade it stopped I sometimes use it to drag back edgings from flitches.  I think Bibby had a video of him dragging back a board or something heavy with the blade (stopped of course).  Personally I just stick a wedge or four in the kerf and push the head back to the wedges, then lose them and go the rest of the way if I can, if I cant, I wedge back further and repeat.  Not saying it's the best way, but it works for me!
Boy, back in my day..

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