Daily Fabrication Thread

[mike_belben]

Barn practice

[Puffergas]

Last weekend was the drum project. A bit too big for the mini lathe so the hack method was used. I started to think it was time to sell the mini lathe and get a real lathe but then I learned of all the modifications. So, I'll keep it and squeeze it for all it is worth, the mini lathe that is.



Some portable band saw work.




Next, grinding. Not perfect but it is a start.




If this works, I'll try it on the skid steer plate tong/grapple with a larger hydraulic motor with high load shaft.

[mike_belben]

Brilliant!

[JesseA]

Building a wide belt sheave? I thought it was the start of a capstan winch at first 

[Puffergas]

Yes, Capitan winch. I got the idea from my Chomper 14. It uses a hydraulic motor as a winch, but it is a standard wind up winch or what ever a standard winch is called. A hydraulic wheel motor would be an interesting option. I can no longer up load photos with Chrome, must of happen with the last Chrome update. Later I'll try a different browser. When I have the time I'm working on the hydraulic tank. Strange that something like a hydraulic tank is taking the most time but I also have a space problem along with a time shortage.

[mike_belben]

A zero turn mower would be pretty good to cannibalize for mini skidder winches.  Youd get a pair or independant hydrostatic in and out winch drums with a mechanical load holding brake.  Hydrostatic transmissions make the most torque when you call for the least speed.  So if its struggling with the load you just slow down on the stick and it makes more torque. If youre fetching light stuff you can just crank it right in fast.  Infinitely variable. 


Only downside is no freewheel or remote control.  One could make a pinned hub or a dog clutch coupling if they really wanted i guess.  

[Puffergas]

The capstan winch is one answer to the clutch and free wheel problem.

[JesseA]

Puffergas, how much room are you working with and how much capacity do you need?

[Puffergas]

JesseA, I'm using a 5" exhaust pipe with the top and bottom cut from an old 20lbs propane tank. The bung in the top of the propane tank will be the bottom drain bung hole in the bottom. I also ordered some weld on bungs to weld on the side of the exhaust-pipe/tank. It is about 2 gallon. It will be on the side of the hydraulic motor post, set vertical. There would have been room for a 6" pipe/tank but I had a 5" in stock. I do not like the idea of it on one side (out of balance) but it is close to the center.

I got to play with my $55 TIG welder, welding the bottom on but ran out of argon. Just bought the torch to hook up to my old AC/DC buzz box. The argon bottle was from a junk MIG I had years ago. Just scratch start. That was fun!

[Skeans1]

If I'm using scratch start tig I'll flick the filler like a match to start the arc instead of scratching the tungsten on the work piece.

[Puffergas]

Skean1, I've been wondering how to start with the filler rod. Do we hold the tungsten close to the grounded work piece. About the same distance as the diameter of the filler rod. Then flick by shorting out the tungsten to the work piece with the filler rod?

[JesseA]

Exactly.  Holt the tip of the tungsten about as far as you'd weld with and snap the wire between the work and the tungsten.  Move quickly like you're striking a match 

[Skeans1]

You hold your normal work distance depending on cup and argon flow without touching the work piece you flick the filler down the tungsten. I'll see if I can dig up a video hope this helps Jody shows how to do it pretty well https://youtu.be/-KS4TcXps5o

[mike_belben]

HF start for the wins.

[Skeans1]

High frequency is nice but even with it I'll still flick the wire when using helium on aluminum.

[mike_belben]

Scratch starts and helium.  Tell me this is a 1970s linde machine.  

[Skeans1]

Nope an inverter it has great starts but helium if it doesn't have a small scratch or the tungsten isn't brand new (reground) every start will give you issues. Now if I mix a little argon in the problem almost never shows up, straight dc helium isn't an issue either on aluminum.

[mike_belben]

Why are you running helium? Machine underpowered for the thickness?

[Skeans1]

It's a 250 amp machine, once in a blue I'd have to build up 3/4" or 1" chain guide for our old harvester.

[mike_belben]

Ive got a syncrowave 300 that i havent seen in a year, 990 miles between us has been tough on the relationship.  She dont call, she dont write..  :(

[Skeans1]

 

 Here's the machine and cooler.

[Crusarius]

that was good video. would have been very helpful years ago when that is all I had to fix an exhaust manifold.

[Grandpa]

Skeans1, how do you like the Everlast? I recently got a 251si and really like it but worry about the lifespan of a welder with a computer in it.

[Dave Shepard]

Can you buy a welder without a circuit board these days? I've only done aluminum with my TIG. With 460 amps and hi freq, you just give it a little more pedal, and off you go. 

[mike_belben]

Thats why ive kept my old syncrowave. My dads still got a linde ucc-305, they just wont die.  The issue is becoming that the people who carry parts and service them actually do. 


I used to lust for a miller dynasty when i was in the racecare business, and almost financed one.  Years later i personally forkloaded one from a robotic process into the dumpster at smith and wesson.  i think they rented another immediately and sent the broken one direct to miller. Who said it was the main control board.  Repalcement was something like $3k with no warranty and they chose to buy another brand new for around $7k all set up for the process by miller.  It was no big deal for them, they wouldnt even spare a spot to store the dead one for parts... But it woulda broke a bum like me.