Beam Machine? Any good?

[IndyIan]

Anyone use one of these? I will be only making beams to try some timber framing.  I don't really plan on making any lumber so it looks like a cheap way to square up a log. Or should I just put the money into an alaskan mill and then I could make boards as well. I've got a husky 372 which I'm sure would be fine doing a few beams but I don't want to kill it doing lots of lumber.

Here's a link to see what I'm talking about.

http://www.beammachine.com/

My main concern is that it might not cut square after the first slab is off. Maybe with some practice I guess.
Thanks for any info,
Ian

[IndyIan]

I guess I should add that I'm new to all this sawmill stuff but I'm sure you guys figured that out because I'm asking about a beam machine  
Anyways this is a great forum from what I've read so far and I've already learned much more than I knew before.


A question about the alaskan mills:  Is it practical to cut square beams with it?  
I assume the way to do it is:
-slab off the top
-set the saw to cut the desired beam width
-run the rollers along the freshly cut top and basicly take the slab off bottom of the log using wedges or spacers so the saw doesn't bind
-set the rails to 90deg of the first cuts and repeat.

Also is my husky 372xp going to survive for many(50 or so) softwood beams and the occasional hardwood beam?  I would try to baby it as I'm not trying to make money at it.  I've searched the forum and it seems no one uses this saw for milling which makes me a bit nervous.
Thanks for any info,
Ian

 

[Tom]

Kevin is pretty knowledgable about chainsaw mills and will be out of pocket a day or too.  I'll bet you will get some good info from him when he gets back from "summer camp" in a couple of days.

Chainsaws just weren't meant to "rip" in my opinion.  I've done it, freehand, but bandsaw mills will spoil you.  It's the cubic inches of the saw and a sharp chain that gets you through the logs, as best as I've been able to figure out. Logosol has one that I saw at the Sunbelt show in Moultry that was working pretty good.   the critical part is being able to cut a straight line. I've done a pretty good job freehand but it sure was work.  The hard part is being able to make a cut at 90 degrees to the first one.  I don't think free hand is the way to go on that. That little jig you asked about looks to be not better than freehand when it comes to the 90 degree cut.

I guess it would be a handy thing to put in your pocket and take to the woods but you will be a lot better off with a more accurate, engineered device.  You might even consider a bandsaw or hiring someone with one.

Look at Kiwi Charlie's "some more nice grain" thread in the General Topic. He is using an Alaskan mill.

[smwwoody]

I use a beam machine to split logs that are too large for my mill.  and I will use a 372 394 or 288 which ever is closest to me at the time.  they all work well to split the occasional log.  a good sharp skip tooth chain is all i use for ripping I'm sure there is better but I don't use it that much.  

as for getting a good 90 degree turn it is not that hard wiith a beam machine.  once you get the first slab off nail your guide board to the flat side and there you go a good 90.  don't try to use drywall screws to fasten the guide board on they break on the way back out and they are real hard on a chain :-[

Iknow a guy that built a timber frame home using a beam machine.  lotts of labor but it looked real good when it was done.

[Tom]

See there Ian.  There's somebody with one.  I figured one  would show up eventually. 8)

[IndyIan]

Thanks for the info guys!  Sounds like the beam machine will be good for what I want to do.  

Smwwoody:  Is a skip tooth chain available at a regular saw shop?  Any tricks you use on the tooth angle?  I've read that 0deg is good for ripping.

I would like to cut beams for a timber frame shed this winter, in a couple years I'd like to build our house that way so I'll need some practice!  

I'll call around and see if any local shops have a beam machine and a skip tooth chain.

[smwwoody]

most shops should have skip tooth in stock.  you may want to ask if they have any ripping chain.  which is usually modifyed skip tooth.   Im not the best one to be giving advice on ripping chain.  there are a lot of guys in here with chainsaw mills that I am sure can help you more.  I use regular skip tooth sharpened the same way I sharpen my felling and bucking chain because I rarly do much ripping.   the chain will still work good for end trimming or bucking logs at the mill.  so then when that odd big one comes in I can clamp on the beam machine get a much better rip than free hand and still use the chain for other things

Woody

[GarryW]

I got my skip tooth (ripping) chain from the folks at the Alaskan mill company. I also got their 12v sharpener too! You'll need to sharpen the chain every couple of cuts. Well, at least I did when I was using my Alaskan.

Here is their web site: http://www.granberg.com

Also, keep an eye on the chain while you are cutting to make sure that it is getting enough oil.

garry

[raycon]

I am doing the same thing you are. That is cutting a timber frame  with a chainsaw. I use a stihl 066 20-36" bars with a alaskan mill and a beam machine hybrid.
 What I've noticed is that I get the best surface finish with ripping chain (Granberg). I don't think I'm getting through the logs faster though. I guage time/speed by fuel consumption and I use 2 gallons between meals if that makes any sense no matter what type of chain - sharpening often and spilling fuel purposely when hungry.
 I have no problems cutting good look'n timbers with this setup. When it comes to framing I square only the joint areas to one another and foundation. Wood species locus,white oak,red oak.
 Recently cut a maple to 30"x30"-10'. One slab off that took nearly the capacity of the fuel reservoir (8"x30"-10'). But some of it looks real nice - burly - making it all worth while.
 
Good luck,

Ray


  
  
 




  

 

  
  

[ARKANSAWYER]

Indylan,
  I just took a chain that need shaprpening and gound it to 5 degree.  It rips very good and gets through knots OK.  I tried O degrees but found that % worked better for me but I just split logs in half free hand.  I run the chain looser then normal to cut down on heat and make sure there is plenty of oil.  
ARKANSAWYER

[Brian_Bailey]

Back in 1977 I used a Granberg mill and a Johnsered 66E with a rip chain to mill 6000' of red (norway) pine logs for my log house. A lot of work, but fun.  Now I wood recommend a band mill though .



The picture shows me in my long hair days :D.