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Amazing 1500 bf per blade on Goodwill trip

Started by SawyerBrown, December 14, 2013, 12:16:58 PM

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POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Holmes on December 14, 2013, 06:16:30 PM


    My preference would be to start late and quit early. 8)

You need an Off Bearer Holmes?  :)
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Delawhere Jack

Even with mostly milling 2x material, 1,500 bf/blade is pretty impressive.

I'm thinking there was a little Divine Intervention going on there.  smiley_angel02_wings

Chuck White

Quote from: SawyerBrown on December 14, 2013, 04:06:12 PM
As another data point as to whether to disengage the saw after each cut, I went back and looked at WM's sales / demo videos (and even the Shootout video).  Very hard to tell on the LT40 video, but on the LT35 video I'm sure I see sawdust flying on the return pass at one point (saw is barely above the cant).

My biggest concern is wear and tear on drive belt and/or brake.  For those that do disengage, has that been a problem?  For those that don't, are you breaking blades due to fatigue?  Might be an argument either way as far as fuel savings, first impression is to idle her down, but re-accelerating those two pulleys burns some fuel too.


I thought it said in my owner/operator manual to disengage upon exiting the far end of the cant or log! 
I looked through the setup and operation section and step 4 says to disengage the blade when you exit the log.
Step 5 says "Always disengage the blade before returning the carriage for the next cut"!

I haven't noticed any ill effects by continually starting and stopping through the course of sawing for the day!

Since I've had my mill, I've only replaced the drive belt twice and I've sawn over 350,000 board feet.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Delawhere Jack

I think a drive band that is slipping under load will wear out much faster than it will from engaging-disengaging the clutch.

David, not sure about that "squeal" thing. I think that's telling you that the belt is about worn out.

Jeff

On my LT30, I disengage only when I have to, as on that older mill, it'll flat wear a guy out tipping that motor back and forth.

My mill has always squealed on engagement. Mr. Tom told me it was normal.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Delawhere Jack on December 14, 2013, 07:31:26 PM


David, not sure about that "squeal" thing. I think that's telling you that the belt is about worn out.

Nah.....a little sqauk is just right. If you get the belt to tight...that sucker will squeal like a stuck hog and not long after that you will lose a shaft.  smiley_crying
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Chuck White

Quote from: POSTONLT40HD on December 14, 2013, 07:41:01 PM
Quote from: Delawhere Jack on December 14, 2013, 07:31:26 PM


David, not sure about that "squeal" thing. I think that's telling you that the belt is about worn out.

Nah.....a little sqauk is just right. If you get the belt to tight...that sucker will squeal like a stuck hog and not long after that you will lose a shaft.  smiley_crying

The belts on the mills have specific belt tensions that they are to be adjusted to, and if the drive belt/s adjusted properly you should get a definate chirp when engaging the blade!

Quote from: Jeff on December 14, 2013, 07:33:39 PM
On my LT30, I disengage only when I have to, as on that older mill, it'll flat wear a guy out tipping that motor back and forth.

My mill has always squealed on engagement. Mr. Tom told me it was normal.

Engaging and disengaging the blade all day will definately take it's toll on ones shoulder.

I've found that when I engage the blade on my mill, that I will straighten my arm, then just lean back a little, it's easier on the shoulder!

This is exactly why the autoclutch was invented.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Dave Shepard

In the beginning, I was told that starting and stopping the band caused a lot of stress to the whole works, including the band, so I would keep it running for multiple cuts. Then I was told to stop the band as soon as I exited the cut to save on flex life. This was all from WM. Now, if I can make a few cuts in thinner boards, I leave it running. I have AutoClutch, so it's not a shoulder issue, although I can certainly see where that would really be a concern without AutoClutch.

Yup, a chirp is correct. I was told, again by WM, that it was better to chirp the belt than to slip it.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

thecfarm

I have a centrifugal clutch on my mill. My shoulder could not take the off and on part. That is my big issue.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: thecfarm on December 14, 2013, 09:13:22 PM
I have a centrifugal clutch on my mill. My shoulder could not take the off and on part. That is my big issue.

This is my point y'all.....if a shoulder can't take it.......it's just a matter of time before machine parts start breaking down. This is why I keep mine running.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

ladylake


Mine runs a lot also but I idle the engine down when needed. I'm with Poston with this one, I think it's hard on everything clutching it in and out.  Even just speeding up the 27hp Kohler sounded tough on it , a little faster idle helps.  My little diesel doesn't mind speedind up-down.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

stavebuyer

The WM manual for the LT70 section 4.11 "Optimal Cutting Procedure" states "In order to achieve maximum production rates, it may be desirable to leave the blade engaged when returning the carriage"

We gained at least 10% in production when we started leaving the blade engaged. We are getting more bd/ft sawn per blade than we were when stopping the blade exiting the cut. The only negative change we have noticed is that we burn an additional gallon or more in diesel than we did before but with the added production our fuel per bd/ft sawn has remained about the same.

We do have the out-feed conveyor and DCS operator controls in a saw cab so nobody is ever close to the running blade. Occasionally we ruin a blade knocking it off with a splinter or something on the drag-back that wouldn't have been damaged if the blade were stopped.

I made the change after watching a video of the mill running. If you haven't seen a video of yourself sawing its a real eye-opener. Take one and put a stopwatch on the time your loosing engaging and disengaging the blade, positioning the head or punching buttons on the set-works. We gained quite a bit of production by doing whatever we could to prepare for the next cut while the saw-head is moving. This included advancing the next log on the deck, changing modes or sets on the set-works, and leaving the blade running. We try to keep the head in motion as much as we possibly can.

ladylake

 On shorter logs there sure isn't time to disengage the blade or slow down the engine.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Peter Drouin

I do the same thing, to keep the blade going on 8' 10' logs . I call it the Wood Mizer rock. Back and forth never stopping . When I come out of the log I'm going up till I think I'll miss the cant then back I go hit the down lever before I clear the cant, go forward and hit the cant with the blade just in the nick of time to when the blade is set, sometimes I go in the cant and the blade has to go down an 1/8 to set. :D :D :D but I don't do that too much ;D

And that is a lot of BF for a blade. Good job in prepping the logs
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

barbender

MM can call that the "Loaves and fishes blade" ;) The manual for my LT40 super says to leave the blade engaged if so desired. I often do, especially once I get to a cant and start slinging boards. I have also ruined more than a few blades when my dragback misses a slab and I hit it with the blade- ka-pow!
Too many irons in the fire

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