I fought the log and the log won

[AnthonyW]

...for now.

Here's my first log loaded and ready.





and here is the idle wheel after starting to engage the clutch.





Do I have to remove the steel wheels to put on the new rubber parts? Anyone have any tips or tricks for replace the rubber wheel?

I also noticed these caps on each of the legs.



They are all full of water and in bad repair. For those that have or had the caps on the legs, what did you do about them? I am thinking of getting some cheap trailer hitch receiver caps and replacing these. The 'cup' style of them just doesn't look like a good idea to me. Sitting water on steel = rust, and I have enough rust to deal with already, I don't need more.

[sigidi]

Can't help much on the idle wheel info, but on your legs full of water, how about drilling a 3-4mm hole right at the bottom of the leg, just at the junction between the foot and the leg? will let any water out, but not weaken it in any significant way

[Chuck White]

Just contact Wood-Mizer and order a new pair of B-57 belts.

No need to remove the wheels, the new belts will just slip right on.

I just drilled a small hole in the middle of each of my leg caps and that lets any water just drip down into the leg.

Don't worry about the leg filling up with water, there's an approx. 1 inch hole in the center of the bottom plate.

[JohnM]

Like Sig, I'm not much help with the questions, just wanted to say that's one of the funnier thread titles I've seen. :D  I seem to recall someone on here making their own plugs/caps for those posts. ???

[thecfarm]

The first log and you can't saw it???? That is a hard thing to take.  :(

[AnthonyW]

I have found the wood mizer order site to be really good so far. The first item in the 'Time to Replace' was the wheel band (coincidence?). Already ordered.

The legs are not full of water, but I suspect there is a bunch in the leg and I plan on drilling the the hole as suggested (on the to do list). I was thinking of making my own cap with a flat top, if I can find plastic 3/4" to 1" think and about 3"x3". I happened across an old hitch receiver and may see if I can find them cheap. It look like the legs might be the same size.

The bigger bummer is I was going to my brothers tomorrow with the mill to saw up some logs at his place too. Guess those plans are scrapped. The last few days working on the mill we dedicating 'restoring' the upper guide rail. It was in bad shape. My father suggested cleaning and them applying gun bluing. Then applying the protector sprays to keep it from rusting. It is hard to see in the picture (other than the fact the rail is black). But it came out really well. I hope it works. I have applied gun rust protector, rustoleum rust inhibitor, and ATF to try to keep the water off.

For those interested, I used a wire wheel to remove the loose rust, then sandpaper to break up and smooth out any hard and high spots, then used the wire wheel again. I cleaned it with decanted paint thinner, followed by lacquer thinner, then denatured alcohol (I used them in this order to save money, the DNA is expensive compared to the decanted paint thinner and lacquer thinner). I then applied the bluing. If any red rust showed after the bluing was rinsed, I did a spot cleaning and bluing using the same steps as before.

[Cguignard]

Those belts can be a pain, I hang mine by the wood stove and get them nice and warm and then with two sets of hands I can usually walk them on. If you don't have two sets of hands I have used vise grips to hold the belt in the grove as I worked it on.  It is a little more of a pain.  On mine if it is not seating evenly because I used vise grips, I use a dead blow hammer to tap, not beat,  the belt in to the grove to even it up. 
About your legs, anything is better than letting the water freeze in them, but I think the plastic caps will be short lived.  What about welding a plate over them?  I have been toying about using expanding foam in in my hollow log post on my mill, not too shore if it would work.  :-\ 

[Chuck White]

The Wood-Mizer recommended B-57 belts should just slip right on with little effort, however some sawyers use the shorter, and therefore tighter B-56 belts!

[AnthonyW]

About your legs, anything is better than letting the water freeze in them, but I think the plastic caps will be short lived.  What about welding a plate over them?  I have been toying about using expanding foam in in my hollow log post on my mill, not too shore if it would work.  :-\

I know the stuff in the cans at Home Depot/Lowes etc. will not work. It must be the closed cell foam, which the off the shelf stuff isn't.

[thecfarm]

That regular stuff will suck water up,or keep it wet all the time.

[Magicman]

I am wondering why that plastic outrigger cap collecting water is bothering you  ??? ???  but anyway, the newer outrigger caps are smooth on the top and the problem has already been solved.   ;D

The outriggers do gradually collect sawdust and other debris which will hold moisture.  To empty them just loosen the 4 bolts and remove them.  That way you can also clean out that bottom hole that Chuck described above.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Duct tape works good as caps, cheap  and can be put on time after time until you start over.

[Jim_Rogers]

I got duct tape on mine, and when you order belts, order extra to have on hand. Sometimes when a blade breaks it can damage the B-57 belt and you'll need to have one on hand to keep going.

There is a list of recommended "spare parts" to have on hand. I don't know or remember where the list is but you should be able to find it on the WM site. Some items on the list I don't usually stock as they don't usually let go that often. But extra belts are on hand all the time.

Good luck
Jim Rogers

[GAB]

On my mill, '05 LT40HDD34, to get the idler wheel belt off (still intact ie no ends) you need to turn the wheel over it and you also need to do the same to put a new one on.  Have at least one but preferrably two minus or flat blade screw drivers handy.
I suggest you be alone with gloves on and be careful for the fingers  Having worked with sheet metal and shroudings, I can assure you that there is a lot of variation from mill to mill.  Hope this helps you.  Gerald

[Magicman]

Yup, turning the idle wheel as you remove and install the belt is also necessary on my mill.  Not a problem, it's just what I have to do.

[GDinMaine]

Anthony, If you were near me I would lend you a couple of belt's 'til you get the new ones.

[Magicman]

Never throw an old belt away because even a worn belt may save a day.  There are probably 4 old and 2 new ones in my work truck.

[bedway]

Two winters ago i didnt remove log loading crane off the mill for winter. :( I had constructed it out of 3 inch sq. tubing quarter inch thick. Spring arrives and i go to use it and its got a 8 inch crack up the side. Not only is it cracked but deformed from the pressure of the water freezing inside. After about a four hour repair job on the ice damage finally put it back together. It was a very informative , if not aggravating education of the power of freezing water.

[AnthonyW]

Never throw an old belt away because even a worn belt may save a day.  There are probably 4 old and 2 new ones in my work truck.

I hear you there. I am hopeful doubtful that I will be able to get the band off the driver wheel without it ending up in the same condition (broken). It feels pretty hard already.

[Magicman]

If the old belt is not pliable, then it needed changing anyway.

[VT-Woodchuck]

NAPA has the b57 belts around here. They ordered the first one for me and since then keep them in stock.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

NAPA has the b57 belts around here. They ordered the first one for me and since then keep them in stock.

Price? Same as Woodmizer?

[AnthonyW]

I was thinking about the whole situation. I had tightened the old rusty band and run up the engine to cutting speed several times since I got the mill. Just checking things out and testing various repairs. Never had a problem until I had put on a new blade and a log ready to cut.

They are so not-pliable that I didn't know they were rubber. I thought the wheels were solid steel with grooves.

NAPA? I would have never thought to try them. The new ones are $13 each and $13 shipping for the pair ($39 total).

[Peter Drouin]

NAPA b57 are not the same as WM b57. NAPA has a round face [ the face the blade rides on] WM are flat, and if you want your WM mill to work right buy WM parts. Dance with the one that brought you to the party. Right MagicMan. It's your old saying  8) 8) ;D

[Magicman]

Absolutely Peter.  OK, some folks may do fine with auto parts belts, but WM has done the R&D and and I trust their judgment.  I have never used any other than WM belts and I easily get a year+ usage out of a set of belts.

I would deem it false economy to try to save a buck and have a blade thrown and ruined by using improper belts.

[Delawhere Jack]

NAPA b57 are not the same as WM b57. NAPA has a round face [ the face the blade rides on] WM are flat, and if you want your WM mill to work right buy WM parts. Dance with the one that brought you to the party. Right MagicMan. It's your old saying  8) 8) ;D

Yep. Also, the bands are not a tight fit on the wheels, they actually have some slack. That is by design, it let the belt shake off sawdust that get stuck on it.

[AnthonyW]

Why does NAPA carry belts 'compatible' with a sawmill? Did I get the right item?

[Chuck White]

Why does NAPA carry belts 'compatible' with a sawmill? Did I get the right item?

There is nothing special about the size of the belts, it's just the design, with the flat crown, vs the autoparts B-57 belts with the rounded crown!

The autoparts belts will get you out of a pinch, in-fact, a couple of years ago I had a belt get cut when a blade broke, so I picked up a B-57 from the autoparts and it got me going again, but at the same time I had a new pair on order from Wood-Mizer! 

[AnthonyW]

I have never seen an automotive belt with grooves on the outside. The belts that are on my mill have grooves on the blade side. Do they not do that anymore?

[Magicman]

There is no way to determine just what belts whoever had installed on the sawmill.  My suggestion is to use the proper B57 belts from WM.

[thecfarm]

Listen to these guys,Daddy knows.  :D

[Dave Shepard]

I was poking around the WM site a couple of weeks ago and the belts were $11 and change. That's a good price anywhere, and it's the right part.

I keep my old belts, too, although I only keep the best couple of belts and toss the rest.

[AnthonyW]

There is no way to determine just what belts whoever had installed on the sawmill.  My suggestion is to use the proper B57 belts from WM.

Has anyone seen belts with grooves in them on any mill? On any woodmizer mill? The grooves follow the circumference like an automotive serpentine belt turned inside out. Not like the notched inside of an automotive V-belt.

The WM belts are on the way and I will use those. But I'm also interested in gathering as much information about the situation and the options while I'm in it. Nothing like learning while doing.

[Dave Shepard]

I've never seen a V belt with grooves anywhere on it. Only flat serpentine belts, like you have mentioned.

[HaroldSiefke]

You could go to your local auto parts store and buy some belts to get you by till your woodmizer belts come in. Then you could saw at your brothers house. 8)

[LeeB]

Anthony, what color are the belts you mention and are they a tight fit or loose fit? I think Suffolk offered a tight fitting belt that may have had grooves on the outside like a belt on a shop band saw.

[AnthonyW]

Anthony, what color are the belts you mention and are they a tight fit or loose fit? I think Suffolk offered a tight fitting belt that may have had grooves on the outside like a belt on a shop band saw.

They are orange. Bingo. Suffolk Machinery offers them. They are right on their website. If you haven't seen belts with the grooved face, swing by and check them out. http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/urethane-band-wheels.html

[Magicman]

OK, that makes sense now.  I tried the orange belts once and they proved unsatisfactory for me so I went back to WM B57's.  I should have known better, but it was a lesson learned.

[coastlogger]

For what its worth Ive never used anything but NAPA belts.13 yrs a few 100 ooo bd ft.Never had an issue that I could attribute to them. Reading this thread tho I think Ill try a set of WM belts,see how I like them.
If I was stuck for a belt and knew I could get one locally Id be headed down that road pronto.

[Magicman]

I seriously doubt that you will see/notice any difference sawing with the WM belt.

[AnthonyW]

After running a a bunch of extension cords and work lights, I found the mill. I changed the wheel bands. The old ones where in there tight. The new ones are a lot looser than I expected. I didn't even need a screwdriver to put them on. When pulled at a single point, there was a 1/2" gap between the inside of the band and the outside of the wheel. Not the inside of the band and the bottom of the wheel, but to the top of the wheel. I can stick my small finger between the band and wheel. Is that right? Is that how loose they are supposed to be?

[Magicman]

Yes that sounds about right.  One thing though, calling them bands is confusing because the blades are bands.  Those are belts.  It just helps when we all call them the same thing.   

[AnthonyW]

I'm already confused because on my vertical bandsaw they are called wheel bands or tires. When someone says belt, I think drive belt. Why can't they both be called the same thing on both machines?

Wow. I am very surprised they should be that loose. Will they shrink or tighten any? The same part on my vertical bandsaw is a stretch fit.

[Dave Shepard]

They will always be loose. I think the idea is that it helps to shake loose any sawdust or bark trapped behind the blade.

[Rockn H]

Just thought I'd throw in that I've always ran a Gates B57 belt from the parts store.  Never had a problem. 

[5quarter]

I agree with Peter regarding factory parts. but just for the record, crowned B-57s from NAPA tend to track better than a flat belt and seem to be less likely to throw a blade. I've used both and prefer the crowned belts over the flat ones. Just my experience. as Frank says, your mileage may vary.  ;)
BTW...If you do use the crowned belts, make sure they are American made. Stay away from any belts made in China.

[Magicman]

The requirement would be that the belt has even thickness and no "hump" where the top layer ends.  Uneven thickness would cause the blade to bump as it travels around the bandwheels.  Other than that, if it tracks properly, that is all that matters.

[Bandmill Bandit]

NAPA has the b57 belts around here. They ordered the first one for me and since then keep them in stock.

Price? Same as Woodmizer?

Make sure it is the RIGHT B57. Must be flat back! NOT crowned.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Tried em all, always back to WM b57

[Bandmill Bandit]

I was told by Wood Mizer that Good Year is their belt supplier. I have used Gates wheel belts and they were good but I didn't get the wear life out them I do from the WM/goodyear belts. I'd say the difference is about 25%+/-.

Right now I have a set of goodyears on the mill and set MWs in the band box. MWs were cheaper by about 8 bucks last time I bought a set.