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Taco Pumps

Started by Gary_C, January 07, 2018, 12:25:20 PM

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Gary_C

I have had my CB 6048 since 2009 with only a replaced door gasket as problems. In this recent cold snap, I have been unable to keep the house warm and the fan has run continuously for days. I finally bought a new Taco 007 pump and installed it last night and the house is right back up to temperature.

So today I disassembled the old pump and found "the emperor has no clothes" or in other words the pump impeller had no vanes remaining. It was nothing but a flat disc and when I touched the remaining flat disc, it crumbled in my fingers into a powder.

Now in this day and age of plastics, surely there is a better material that could be used to make impellers that run in water only? I know that high doses of chlorine will cause even stainless steel problems but not to the point of disintegrating?

Perhaps it's a planned breakdown program as the rest of the pump seems to be well built and ready for many more years of service. Perhaps I've been lucky for the motor and bearings to have lasted this long.

Any one else had similar experience?
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Ivan49

 I had 2 of them that went bad but that was over a 15 year period. One the empeller did like yours after about 10 years. The other just wore out you could push or pull the impellor in and out about a 1/4 inch. I went to a 3 speed Groundfos and it works great

Hackermatack

I have 6 007 tacos on my wood oil combo boiler, they have been there since 1988. It is however a pressurized system so water is rarely added. In a open system a little water evaporates and you must add water more often which leads to more mineral buildup. Don't know if that is the problem but I do know many outdoor boilers recommend bronze circulators maybe that is why.
Jonsered 2230, 590, 70E. Kioti DK 35 /w fransguard winch. Hudson Oscar 236

ButchC

All TACO pumps are not equal. What material was the pump and impeller made of?  My 007 and 011 pumps are what they call bronze (body)/ bronze (impeller)  and have worked without any attention for 10 years. The cheapie pumps that are advertised are often cast iron/ plastic, some are not made for hot water, be careful if you bargain hunt for pumps.  You can also buy a rebuild cartridge but it usually costs right up there with an entire pump.  All in all I dont figure my pumps owe me a cent at 10 years old, I have had spares on the shelf since year 2, LOL.
Peterson JP swing mill
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Shop built firewood processor
Case W11B
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E Yoder

I have heard high nitrates can cause the impeller to disintegrate. I don't think there is a difference in temp rating on a bronze v. cast iron pump...
A spare is a very good idea. Personally I've found the B&G and Grundfos hold up very well.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

xlogger

Another question on the pumps. My Central boiler is about 60 ft from my house and around 6 ft lower. Once it gets to house it runs across house to hot water heater and up two floors to hook into ducts (a extra good 100 ft total and up about 18 ft). My dealer said to put an extra 007 pump in the house for a booster, so I have two in the line I use during the winter. Another dealer I talked to said one larger pump at stove would do it. Anyone here pumps that far and high with luck? During real cold temps I have to cut on gas heat for help.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Logging logginglogging

Quote from: Gary_C on January 07, 2018, 12:25:20 PM
I have had my CB 6048 since 2009 with only a replaced door gasket as problems. In this recent cold snap, I have been unable to keep the house warm and the fan has run continuously for days. I finally bought a new Taco 007 pump and installed it last night and the house is right back up to temperature.

So today I disassembled the old pump and found "the emperor has no clothes" or in other words the pump impeller had no vanes remaining. It was nothing but a flat disc and when I touched the remaining flat disc, it crumbled in my fingers into a powder.

Now in this day and age of plastics, surely there is a better material that could be used to make impellers that run in water only? I know that high doses of chlorine will cause even stainless steel problems but not to the point of disintegrating?

Perhaps it's a planned breakdown program as the rest of the pump seems to be well built and ready for many more years of service. Perhaps I've been lucky for the motor and bearings to have lasted this long.

Any one else had similar experience?

I have had the exact same thing on my fathers boiler the big 009 impeller was just like you said just a flat disk and crumbled....


Dave Shepard

Quote from: xlogger on January 09, 2018, 06:03:27 AM
Another question on the pumps. My Central boiler is about 60 ft from my house and around 6 ft lower. Once it gets to house it runs across house to hot water heater and up two floors to hook into ducts (a extra good 100 ft total and up about 18 ft). My dealer said to put an extra 007 pump in the house for a booster, so I have two in the line I use during the winter. Another dealer I talked to said one larger pump at stove would do it. Anyone here pumps that far and high with luck? During real cold temps I have to cut on gas heat for help.

You would have to calculate the head to know if one pump would work. Head is not only vertical rise in this case, but length of pipe, size of pipe, and fittings in the pipe. A 007 is high gpm (28 gpm), low head. Ann 009 is high head, low gpm (8gpm). An 011 is high gpm, high head. I would go with a bigger pump, if possible, rather than two, as a bigger pump is a fifteen minute swap with no new plumbing to contend with.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

xlogger

thanks for the info. I started looking at the 011, looks like the best price I've found so far is $220 up. A good bit higher than the 007.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

47sawdust

 x2 on the Grundfos pump,more money but well made and long service.Mine has been in service fo 6years w/o a hiccup.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

xlogger

On the grandfos I see where the one I was looking at has 3 speeds. During the warm weather I cut off the flow up in the attic to my heat exchanger, so can with this pump I cut it to a lower speed then? Maybe save some electricity. I'm ready to try something different from what I got just want to get what will work best. Now after having the OWB for several years I see where my dealer sold me some things I think he just wanted to get rid of.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

xlogger


[/quote]

You would have to calculate the head to know if one pump would work. Head is not only vertical rise in this case, but length of pipe, size of pipe, and fittings in the pipe. A 007 is high gpm (28 gpm), low head. Ann 009 is high head, low gpm (8gpm). An 011 is high gpm, high head. I would go with a bigger pump, if possible, rather than two, as a bigger pump is a fifteen minute swap with no new plumbing to contend with.
[/quote]
After checking more on my rise today I'm close to a total of 33 ft up to my heat exchanger. I see where the 011 is suppose to be good to 31ft. Maybe I should leave the 007 on the stove and change my inside kicker 007 to 011 that would make my lift around 22-23 ft. I would still have to run both pumps during the winter but I do bypass the inside pump as the weather warms up. I run my stove all year.
My air blowing out of the vents are not near what they are when I'm running my gas heat.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Dave Shepard

If it's a closed loop, then there is no vertical head, only the resistance of the fittings and pipe. The water on the down side offsets the water being pushed up.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

E Yoder

Plumbing a feed for house pressure in is great for purging out the air the first time, then a medium head pump should push it fine, as mentioned height makes no difference once purged.
I use a lot of NRF-22's, 15-58's, etc.
007 is not ideal as it is a lower head pump .
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

xlogger

What is the best way to check water temp in pex lines? Maybe this will tell me if I'm getting enough flow.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

thecfarm

Not a perfect way,But.... the guy that installed my said you can just about hold onto pex pipe at 180,copper you can not. Works for me.  ;D He's right.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Ivan49

I bought one of those cheap HF thermoters that you aim the light at something and it reads. I take the temp at the copper elbow. There is quite a difference when you take it there as to the pex line

xlogger

I didn't know about them till you said that, thanks. I order one from amazon. Maybe now I can tell more if I'm getting as much water heat thru the heat exchanger as I should.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

crazy4saws

On my central boiler I have a taco(came with the boiler) for the house, and a old, used, free B&G for the shop. I would go with a grundfos pump then armstrong, last would be taco and b&g. Of course sized properly for your system.

I deal with these small recirq pumps for industrial applications on underfloor heat for freezers to name one application. The grundfos holds up the best with few issues.

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