Cordless B-20

[flip]

We are going to add a setwork control switch on the sawhead.  

Jeff sees this as a nice addition to the mill.  From what I understand he has had times that he uses a tape measure to a location on the mill's frame and it would be very handy to have a control switch near by.  

Certainly the extra RF transmitter would do the same thing; it becomes a case of personal preference and this is an easy addition (and will work harmoniously with the RF remote switching).

Do tell.

So by making it wireless to move the head up and down, it will bypass the down stop when the setworks are on? 

[sgschwend]

Nothing is bypassed.  The relays connect to the same place as the switch was.  So the limit switches and computer setworks are still in the circuit and work perfectly.

My understanding is that the computer keeps track of the sawhead position and by program stops the setworks at the correct spot, or if a limit is reached the sawhead will be stopped.

Only in manual adjustment mode there is an overshoot.  When I have a moment I will look at the board design to see what can be done there.  I believe you would find this when cutting a beam using manual settings.  I don't know about the TK program modes, if there was one that works from the table top that should be all that is necessary.  I get the impression Jeff uses a step program that references the top of the first cut.

[flip]

We have been using some 1/16" thick aluminum story sticks that have marks on them for various cuts.  Very accurate but you have to have the carriage almost all the way back to "split" the cut line.  The way it is sounding, with the remote set up, there is no bumping the head up or down to achieve minute corrections (1/16" or less).

[sgschwend]

Not sure what the true minimum bump on the B20 is.  I am sure it is not zero, would be fun to know.  There is a lot going on that needs to be controlled, such as:  stopping a gear reduction motor, controlling worm gear nut backlash and the drive chain slack.  In my opinion there is a lot of parts moving which makes this a challenging design.  Sounds like your story stick measure to the saw which would help eliminate those errors.  Did I get that right?

My guess is the setworks lowering speed was selected to make things as accurate as practical (but I don't really know this stuff, so take this with a grain of salt).  I did not see any active error correction for these parts, which I think other brand mills have.

The manual switch that we are going to add will work as well as the one the factory puts at the control station.  I think the second switch is somewhat redundant, but it is a simple quick fix and it still eliminates the cord real.  Sometimes redundancy is a good thing.

Lastly, Jeff showed me where he replaced the factory connectors in the control box with wire nuts to fix the intermittent computer setworks operations.  Maybe you could try that fix too.

[flip]

Not sure what the true minimum bump on the B20 is.  I am sure it is not zero, would be fun to know.  There is a lot going on that needs to be controlled, such as:  stopping a gear reduction motor, controlling worm gear nut backlash and the drive chain slack.  In my opinion there is a lot of parts moving which makes this a challenging design.  Sounds like your story stick measure to the saw which would help eliminate those errors.  Did I get that right?

My guess is the setworks lowering speed was selected to make things as accurate as practical (but I don't really know this stuff, so take this with a grain of salt).  I did not see any active error correction for these parts, which I think other brand mills have.

The manual switch that we are going to add will work as well as the one the factory puts at the control station.  I think the second switch is somewhat redundant, but it is a simple quick fix and it still eliminates the cord real.  Sometimes redundancy is a good thing.

Lastly, Jeff showed me where he replaced the factory connectors in the control box with wire nuts to fix the intermittent computer setworks operations.  Maybe you could try that fix too.

In my quest to fix this thing several year ago we went through 4-5 cord reels, new relay box, new wiring everything.  So I take it back to TK to see if they could make it work as designed and wouldn't you know the stupid thing worked every time :.  When I do the remote, I am rewiring everything again just to make sure I didn't miss anything.  I crimp and solder all of my connectors so I'm sure I've got good connections form point to point.  May be a month before I can get to this, got to go to school in a week 8)

[sgschwend]

I notice Jeff has a box of used cord reels too.

I will pm you if there is any news.

[redbeard]

The remote set-up is working extremely well, especially adding a manual switch right next to de-barker switch. I can dial in any  incriment i want now and the set-works is right on the money. I was wrong on the return speed it is just one speed i just never knew that cause the cord reel could never keep up with the head return. I have gotten real use to coming back fast and lowering it to next cut. So my BF production is up. In a 3-4 hr time frame i have been use to doing 1/2 of what i did on Saturday i was amazed how fast this mill can cut. So if your cord reel can keep up with full speed head return then this modification dosen,t really change much. I give two thumbs up on this remote replacement kit.

[bodagocreek2]

Redbeard - would like to thank you and Sqschwend for the information on the wireless setup. Installed it about 2 weeks ago and it works great. Now, maybe we can get some onfo on a remote throttle for the B20. Thanks again. Nic

[sgschwend]

I ordered a factory solenoid for my Kohler engine.  It give two speed settings.  It is OK.  I did not like the way they wanted me to install it, so I modified the new brackets so that I could keep my manual choke.

The two speed works fine as long as you are under heavy load, which would only occur if you stalled/stopped the saw in the log.

I hooked up my lube to the same control circuit so it cycles with the engine.  I like that method, because I can set the lube flow on high, but it would be off when not in a cut with the engine idled down.