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timberking wiring diagram

Started by pnhigg, November 16, 2010, 01:45:21 PM

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pnhigg

I searched and could not find anything, but if this has been brought up previously, recently, and/or often, my apologies from the start.
I have a timberking b20 that was recently purchased used.  After some refurbishing it seems to be sawing very well, but we are having some minor electrical issues with the blade up/down electric motor.  It appears the previous owner has replaced some of the solenoids, and the wiring has been manipulated some.
Does anyone have an electrical wiring diagram for the saw?  I have spoken with timberking, but have not had a lot of luck there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Patrick

Mark Webb

If you will give me email address I will scan mine and send it to you.
Mark
The Lord made enough time in each day to do what we need to do "graciously".

redbeard

Hello pnhigg welcome, Do you have setworks and what year do you have? sometimes its cord reel cleaning to  loose pins in the connector plugs my 2006 had a bad connection on the wires brian was talking about they plug into a junction the pins eventually vibrate loose. Don't get fustrated with TK techs they will work with you I threw my hands up first couple of times its best to do your homework and ask specific questions about your problem at hand. A manual is something you will need right away
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

paul case

cant even offer any kinda help except to say
''welcome to the forum'' ;D    pc
life is too short to be too serious. (some idiot)
2013 LT40SHE25 and Riehl edger,  WM 94 LT40 hd E15. Cut my sawing ''teeth'' on an EZ Boardwalk
sawing oak.hickory,ERC,walnut and almost anything else that shows up.
Don't get phylosophical with me. you will loose me for sure.
pc

ladylake

 It's the green ground wire in the TK cord reel that messes up the setworks. Anyone ever figure out how that goes through the cord reel.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

pnhigg

thanks guys.
TK has been ok, no terrible frustration, but we (my dad and I) were told they never printed a manual for that model saw.
The saw is a 1997 model, and it does not have setworks.
I don't know if there is a way to tell if it ever did have or not.  The saw was bought at a farm auction so we don't know what its original setup included. 
We bought the saw cheap enough, that we expected there to be some issues, but so far it has done great with some minor refurbishing, we just can't seem to work out the wiring gremlins.  It will only be used for our own use.

The spcific problem we are having, and I have discussed withi ladylake some (thanks again for the help) is that the electric up/down motor often stops after it has been on for more than a few seconds.  We replaced the circuit breaker, but no change.  The soleniods are new, and the motor has been checked out and is ok.  It seems like we are pulling too much current and triping the breaker, but we can't figure out why.

Sorry for the ignorance, we are both new to this saw, having only used manual bandmills in the past, but I really appreciate all your help.
email: pnhigg@yahoo.com

Thanks,
Patrick

ronwood

Patrick,

Do have you anything that may be binding or needs lubrication? Is the motor big enough for the job?

I had issue with my Woodmizer once on the up/down motor and it was associated with rust on the vertical supports were the head moves up and down. Remove the rust and have kept it lubricated and have not had a problem since.

Ron
Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

pnhigg

Thanks,
We did clean the vertical supports as they has some very minor rust.  They are shiny now, and have been lubed.
The motor is the one that came with the machine, and we were working under the assumption that it was correctly sized, but I suppose it is possible that it is too small.
It's 1/4 horse d/c motor.

ronwood

Paterick,

Have you looked at all the connections going to the motor to verify that they are good. Poor connections can cause voltage drops that in turn can cause a large current draw causing the breaker to trip.
Ron

Sawing part time mostly urban logs -St. Louis/Warrenton, Mo.
LT40HG25 Woodmizer Sawmill
LX885 New Holland Skidsteer

ladylake

 Do you keep  the lead screws lubed good , I used 80-90 in the summer and a little lighter in the cold. I cut a little slit in the accordian boots about 3 folds up and oil 7 or 8 pumps 2 or 3 times a day. Make sure the plastic slides aren't too tight.  Also the breaker TK put on is a little undersized, when I first got my mill the up-down worked good untill cold weather came , then it was tripping the breaker all the time. I bypassed the breaker with no ill effects in 8000 hours but one could fry something with no breaker. I think they come with a 30 amp breaker, maybe a 40 or 50 would work and still offer some protection.    Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

ladylake

 Just checked , a 1/4 hp 12v dc motor draws 21 amp at full load so in theory a 30 amp breaker should work if everything is working good. What kind of shape are your lead screws in, they should have some flat surface on the outside of the threads . If worn to a sharp edge they will cause a lot of drag. Check  the bearings at thwe toop of the lead screws, if not greased good or shot that would cause more drag.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Tom the Sawyer

I had a problem with my B-20 bogging down and not going to the highest cut position.  Talked to Mike at TK and he offered this check which immediately resolved my problem.  Note:  my B-20 is a late 2007 model that had only about 10 hours on it at the time.

Set up the mill and level it as perfectly as you can.  Then place your level on the exposed acme screw threads that raise and lower the saw head.  Check it on the inside of the screw and at the back (90 degrees apart).  My right one was dead on, the left one was off.  If either one is off you have to loosen the bolts on the bearing at the top of the screw, just below the chain gear.  Mine was moved outward 1/8" and forward about 3/16" to get the screw perfectly plumb and retightened.  Problem solved.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

pnhigg

Mark;
Thanks for emailing the wiring diagram

Tom:
We just wondered about that.  One of the acme screws does appear out of plumb slightly, so we will try that next along with making sure the wiring is correct.

Thanks as well to everyone else who has offered suggestions.

pnhigg

FWIW, I think we have everything in order now.  Sawed quite a bit yesterday, and everthing worked great, all day, no issues, electrical or otherwise.
One of the screws was enough out of plumb that the saw was binding before it raised the the final up position, as Tom described.
Appreciate all the help guys.

eireog68

hey tom the sawyer nice pics could you do me a favor and give me the make and model of the selector valve for the toe boards.
Back to Basics with new age tools
If we all had desk jobs who would make the desks
Buy American and give your children job,s
or buy imported and have to support them for life.

Tom the Sawyer

eirog68,

The only name on the control is "Hydraforce" and it is stamped with the following numbers;
JEM960926-A,  04/34.







07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

Itsoktowin

I bought a 1997 all electric B20 at an auction the hydraulic motor runs everything functions. I have good power everywhere but can't get anything else to turn on. If anyone were too have a wiring diagram Timberking does not.

I can push the switch in manually for the mill motor(15hp) but it won't start the motor and the push button control doesn't seem to function.

Tom the Sawyer

Sorry, the only schematic I have is for the control box.  My B20 is gas and 10 years newer.

Try to clarify your question.  You say that everything functions, and then list things that don't work.  If you have a meter, it shouldn't be too difficult to track down where the power stops.  Once you have that, Mike or Jason at TK should be able to walk you through.
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

Itsoktowin

Thanks, yes I should clarify everything run by the hydraulic pump functions. I have power clear to every motor... but can only engage the motor that runs the hydraulic pump.

I can push the starter manually with a screw driver and the mill motor tries to start but won't turn .

tacks Y

Have you tried to turn the motor by hand? Not froze up and kicking out the overload heaters? Is this single or 3 phase? May just be a bad switch on the starter? Know any one around with electric motor smarts? Motor starter not doing any thing when you push on?  Good luck

Itsoktowin

Yes it turns freely. I've got a motor guy. I tested all the switches first.

tacks Y

If you are pushing the magnetic starter and it tries but does not spin check voltage out of the starter. Sounds like a dirty or bad contact. Trying to start a 3 phase with only 2. I assume it is not a single phase, because if you lose one side nothing happens.  

Itsoktowin

Thanks I'll take it apart and maybe add some dielectric grease to all 3 spots. I'm really looking for a schematic if anyone knows where one is.

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