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3 way zone valve

Started by xlogger, October 04, 2018, 08:56:01 AM

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xlogger

I have my hot tub connected to my CB. We started it back up last week after being off all summer. Having problems with keeping temp correct. I can open manual lever on valve and get it hot too hot if left open. Not sure if its the head or spring in the valve. Sometimes it hot with head connected and will not cool down unplugged and then next time will not get hot all hook up. I'm thinking just ordering the complete valve and taking the four screws off top of valve and replace spring assembly and head also. Any ideas before I do this? 
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

LittleJohn

Remember, you need a pump between the mixing valve and the application/appliance. 

Is it a powered mixing valve, or a thermostatic (Mechanical) mixing valve.  just trying to get an idea of how  the system is plumbed and what may be going wrong

xlogger

A thermostatic controls opening and closing the flow of water thru the valve coming from the OWB
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

E Yoder

I've found those 3 way zone valves are bad about seizing up. Grit or mineral buildup? I dunno.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

xlogger

Where do you find the best price on parts to rebuilt? Or maybe I should just order a new valve and strip the parts out of it and replace into my brass one. I'm trying not to cut out my valve out of line and sweat a new one in.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

mike_belben

STC valve has been good to me, cheap.
Praise The Lord

hedgerow

Quote from: xlogger on October 05, 2018, 06:04:45 AM
Where do you find the best price on parts to rebuilt? Or maybe I should just order a new valve and strip the parts out of it and replace into my brass one. I'm trying not to cut out my valve out of line and sweat a new one in.
You may not be able to do this if the body of the valve is bad. Usually with valves I just bit the bullet and sweat in a new completed valve. I am assuming it is a mechanical valve.

boilerman101

Not much to go wrong with the soldered in brass base body. The Central Boiler parts book shows a Taco 3 way zone valve repair kit. Looks like all the lower guts of the valve - Valve body, spring, plate and screws. Suggested retail $62.00 I would think you should be able to purchase from your local CB dealer or online. Might be your easiest fix and not have to resolder. They also have replacement valve heads, but probably cheaper to buy a new valve complete than buy both the guts and a new head.

xlogger

Quote from: boilerman101 on October 05, 2018, 11:44:59 PM
Not much to go wrong with the soldered in brass base body. The Central Boiler parts book shows a Taco 3 way zone valve repair kit. Looks like all the lower guts of the valve - Valve body, spring, plate and screws. Suggested retail $62.00 I would think you should be able to purchase from your local CB dealer or online. Might be your easiest fix and not have to resolder. They also have replacement valve heads, but probably cheaper to buy a new valve complete than buy both the guts and a new head.


That's what I was thinking about buying the total valve and then I would have to head for a spare later if needed. I have two of this valves one in hot tub and other in my wood kiln both supply by my OWB. But before I buy the valve I need to make sure its not my thermostat.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

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