I've been asked to saw tapered 12x12 posts, fir or cedar. 12x12 down to 9x9. Wondering what the most efficient and accurate way to do this is? Use a wedge or the toe board? I've done beams with an angled top but never tapered posts. :)
For reproducibility I'd use a block to elevate one end. I'd make a diagram for each cut. I guess there are only really 2 cuts to plan out. Also pay attention to how you keep it square.
It goes without saying, but just in case I'll say it: Cuts 3 and 4 need shims twice the height as the shims for cuts 1 and 2.
Plus kerf ;D
Minus wane
Who's Wane and why does he get left out? ???
:D :D :D
Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on August 05, 2017, 08:08:53 PM
Who's Wane and why does he get left out? ???
He acted up and now is in the woodshed. A somber day.
Is the woodshed where you go to somber up when you had too much purple drank?
Never had much use for Wayne anyhow :)
It never takes too long for a serious topic to end up at the comedy club. :D :D
So Wayne....the guy in the sombero started a Comedy Club in his Woodshed and serves Purple Drank. I was having trouble keeping up but now understand.
. . . . . but I walk away to the woodshed shaking my head.
Wane is in his own World!
All joking aside Folks, I've never done this. I'm not to smart when it comes to milling so how would this be done. I would envision marking out the ends of the log and shimming to get that cut. But how do you know it's going to make the cut?
I'm pretty good at making things come out different than intended:)
David
Look at your starting height. Raise the head and travel to the other end and lower the head to the starting height. That will show you what the finished cut will look like.
Hope I'm not screwing this up in my head. ;D
Get the pith level then prop the small end up 1-1/2 more inches (12 - 9) / 2 = 1.5. Cut 6 inches above the pith on the big end.
Rotate 90 and repeat.
Rotate 90 and prop the small end up 3 inches; cut for 12 inches at the big end.
Rotate 90 and repeat.
Make sense?
What Grouch and Magicman said. If you're tapering from end to end, Be sure the end that stays on the bunk is the pivot point. If your bunk supporting the lower end is not at the end of the log, you'll get a taper between the raised end and the point where the log is sitting on the bunk. The rest of the log, from the bunk to the far end will be straight. You may need to support the far end of the log with a board between two bunks to make it work. If so, add the thickness of the board to the shims you're raising small end with.
To be safe, I'd cut one for practice just to get the feel of it. It's a lot like cutting tapers on table legs on the table saw, but with this the saw is moving and not the work.
Another thing that probably goes without saying: Make a regular cant first and then taper it.
I have another way. I made a lathe attachment for my mill.
I just put the log on the lathe and raise the tailstock.
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 07, 2017, 07:41:10 PM
I have another way. I made a lathe attachment for my mill.
I just put the log on the lathe and raise the tailstock.
Pics or it didn't happen!
Quote from: 4x4American on August 07, 2017, 08:00:03 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 07, 2017, 07:41:10 PM
I have another way. I made a lathe attachment for my mill.
I just put the log on the lathe and raise the tailstock.
Pics or it didn't happen!
He's shown pics; it did happen. :)
Ain't you ever heard of puttin' the Kbeitz on wood? Makes nice spiral lumber!
This one is a tapered twisted octagon ...
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Twist_4~0.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1502169014)
I've got stuff like that I did without a lathe ;D
Seriously, that is some cool cutting. What will it be? a column?
I recently tapered a flagpole on the mill. Its not that hard, make sure the big (far) end is resting on a bunk or board. Mark it so it doesn't vary. Run the sawhead down to exit point and lower till the blade is making contact with exit point. Back up head, raise cant with shim to first cut hgth and let her rip. I had marked the center of cant on small end, measure up from rail to mark. Use that measurement to shim up rest of sides. Don't forget to shim the small end against the stops to keep parallel so your cut comes out square.
Quote from: kelLOGg on August 08, 2017, 05:00:17 AM
I've got stuff like that I did without a lathe ;D
Seriously, that is some cool cutting. What will it be? a column?
Columns. table legs. porch post... Whatever.
Could make logs from cants with that thing.
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on August 08, 2017, 11:29:33 AM
Could make logs from cants with that thing.
More pictures here...
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,82853.msg1476030.html#msg1476030
Kbeitz that twisted timber is farginsaweet!