iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Sawing Tapered Posts

Started by highleadtimber16, August 05, 2017, 01:15:43 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

highleadtimber16

I've been asked to saw tapered 12x12 posts, fir or cedar. 12x12 down to 9x9. Wondering what the most efficient and accurate way to do this is? Use a wedge or the toe board? I've done beams with an angled top but never tapered posts.  :)
2011 Wood-Mizer LT 40 hyd w/ 12' Extension,
EG 200 Wood-Mizer
Cutting Old Growth Cedar from Queen Charlotte Islands.

terrifictimbersllc

For reproducibility I'd use a block to elevate one end.  I'd make a diagram for each cut.  I guess there are only really 2 cuts to plan out.   Also pay attention to how you keep  it square.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

btulloh

It goes without saying, but just in case I'll say it:  Cuts 3 and 4 need shims twice the height as the shims for cuts 1 and 2.
HM126

69bronco


4x4American

Boy, back in my day..

Ga Mtn Man

Who's Wane and why does he get left out?  ???
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

killamplanes

jd440 skidder, western star w/grapple,tk B-20 hyd, electric, stihl660,and 2X661. and other support Equipment, pallet manufacturing line

4x4American

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on August 05, 2017, 08:08:53 PM
Who's Wane and why does he get left out?  ???


He acted up and now is in the woodshed.  A somber day.
Boy, back in my day..

LeeB

Is the woodshed where you go to somber up when you had too much purple drank?
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

69bronco

Never had much use for Wayne anyhow :)

btulloh

It never takes too long for a serious topic to end up at the comedy club.   :D :D
HM126

rasman57

So Wayne....the guy in the sombero started a Comedy Club in his Woodshed and serves Purple Drank.  I was having trouble keeping up but now understand.

Darrel

. . . . . but I walk away to the woodshed shaking my head.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

John S

2018 LT40HDG38 Wide

dsgsr

All joking aside Folks, I've never done this. I'm not to smart when it comes to milling so how would this be done. I would envision marking out the ends of the log and shimming to get that cut.  But how do you know it's going to make the cut?

I'm pretty good at making things come out different than intended:)

David
Northlander band mill
Kubota M59 TLB
Takeuchi TB175 Excavator
'08 Ford 550 dump
'87 International Dump
2015 Miller 325 Trailblazer Welder/Gen

Magicman

Look at your starting height.  Raise the head and travel to the other end and lower the head to the starting height.  That will show you what the finished cut will look like. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

grouch

Hope I'm not screwing this up in my head.  ;D

Get the pith level then prop the small end up 1-1/2 more inches (12 - 9) / 2 = 1.5. Cut 6 inches above the pith on the big end.

Rotate 90 and repeat.

Rotate 90 and prop the small end up 3 inches; cut for 12 inches at the big end.

Rotate 90 and repeat.

Make sense?
Find something to do that interests you.

btulloh

What Grouch and Magicman said.  If you're tapering from end to end, Be sure the end that stays on the bunk is the pivot point.  If your bunk supporting the lower end is not at the end of the log, you'll get a taper between the raised end and the point where the log is sitting on the bunk.  The rest of the log, from the bunk to the far end will be straight.  You may need to support the far end of the log with a board between two bunks to make it work.  If so, add the thickness of the board to the shims you're raising small end with.

To be safe, I'd cut one for practice just to get the feel of it.  It's a lot like cutting tapers on table legs on the table saw, but with this the saw is moving and not the work.
HM126

btulloh

Another thing that probably goes without saying:  Make a regular cant first and then taper it.
HM126

Kbeitz

I have another way. I made a lathe attachment for my mill.
I just put the log on the lathe and raise the tailstock.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

4x4American

Quote from: Kbeitz on August 07, 2017, 07:41:10 PM
I have another way. I made a lathe attachment for my mill.
I just put the log on the lathe and raise the tailstock.


Pics or it didn't happen!
Boy, back in my day..

grouch

Quote from: 4x4American on August 07, 2017, 08:00:03 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on August 07, 2017, 07:41:10 PM
I have another way. I made a lathe attachment for my mill.
I just put the log on the lathe and raise the tailstock.


Pics or it didn't happen!

He's shown pics; it did happen. :)

Ain't you ever heard of puttin' the Kbeitz on wood? Makes nice spiral lumber!
Find something to do that interests you.

Kbeitz

This one is a tapered twisted octagon ...



 
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

kelLOGg

I've got stuff like that I did without a lathe ;D
Seriously, that is some cool cutting. What will it be? a column?
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

69bronco

I recently tapered a flagpole on the mill. Its not that hard, make sure the big (far) end is resting on a bunk or board. Mark it so it doesn't vary. Run the sawhead down to exit point and lower till the blade is making contact with exit point. Back up head, raise cant with shim to first cut hgth and let her rip. I had marked the center of cant on small end, measure up from rail to mark. Use that measurement to shim up rest of sides. Don't forget to shim the small end against the stops to keep parallel so your cut comes out square.

Thank You Sponsors!