Table saw insert

[D._Frederick]

I was wondering what you guys use for a zero clearance insert on your table saws? I like the one Norm A uses on the "New Yankee Work Shop", I only found one place that carried them and they were over $100 and did not have any for my PM 66.

What they carry now is the solid plastic one for about $25 a pop, the type Norm uses, a person can mill the insert themselfs.

A while back the PM dealer here had a bolt on attachment type scoring saw, but the price scared me for the little I would need it.

[metalspinner]

I run my own using cutoffs.  Plane them down to thickness, then trace them out with your existing insert.  Do a bunch at a time and you will always have one ready to go. You can get fancy with them by adding screw levelers, but I don't.  A screw coming out  the back should be installed so the thing doesn't kick out the hole, though. :(

[Larry]

What MS said...I usually use oak planed a little thinner than put a couple pieces of tape on the corners to level them out with the table.  Years ago when I worked in a cabinet/sign shop we made em out of phenolic because we cut a lot of 1/8" Formica for signs and our tolerance on the reverse side was zero chip out.

[sawwood]

I also use some left over oak or maple. I use the insert that came with the saw as a pattern. I use double stick to taple it to the oak, cut around it on the bandsaw and finish
it with the router with a flush trim bit the one that has the bearning on the end. I also
have a couple made for the diff size of dado blades i use.

Lester

[SwampDonkey]

I use 1/2" plywood, less movement over the seasons. But pretty much the same as the guys stated. No need to buy an insert.  : I have a couple for my new daddo system I bought recently and used them to cut my finger joints in my butternut chest.

I was already to buy some inserts, when I opened my wood worker's manual and seen them home made jobs in there. ;)  I cut mine with the bandsaw and take to the table sander, and sand to the trace lines. Fit nice and snug.

[Ironwood]

Lexan, aluminum, plexiglass, anything able to be cut by blades but not expand contract w/ temp/ moisture. You can thread it as well to micro adjust the four corners as needed.

Ironwood

[Modat22]

I have a powermatic 64A and make my own inserts from white plastic cutting boards sold at wallmart   

I just stick the original aluminum insert to the plastic piece and flush trim it with my router. I then transfer the leveling screw holes etc. then I make a 3/4" wide by 1/4" deep relief cut on the blade side of the inserts.

Those cutting boards cost about 5 dollars at WM and I end up getting about 6 inserts out of one, they are very slick and work very well for standard cuts and dados.