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Questions for a Linn Sawmill build

Started by foamnone, January 09, 2019, 10:41:52 PM

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Kwill

 

 here is a pic of it back when i was building it
Built my own hydraulic splitter
Built my own outdoor wood stove
Built my own log arch
built my own bandsaw sawmill
Built my own atv log arch.
Built my own FEL grapple

Crusarius

The square must resist twisting more and the clearance on your slides. Could have also been buildup on the rails for me. I was cutting without my scrapers on to see if I really needed them. I do :)

foamnone

Thinking of adding a compression spring between the yoke and tensioner. Something that could give a little if needed

charles mann

when you run your tensiometer on the blade, how many psi do you have to have it at for proper tension? @Crusarius 

im not sure how much mine will be, being a 2" x .050" blade, 25' long, but i was thinking of adding a spring to my idea side as well, but not yet knowing how much psi its going to take to tighten my blade, i don't really know how heavy/strong of spring to get, and i was thinking of using a jack bolt for my tension, but the plans and the builder/seller of the plans used a port-a-power, and i think it was taking 3000psi to achieve the correct tension on his mill, and mine will be similar, just a bit longer of a blade.   
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Crusarius

I run 1500 to 2000 psi. but keep in mind that is just oil pressure not actual blade tension. I have a 1" cylinder with -4 JIC port fitting feeding it.

foamnone

I'm using 1/2 inch plate for pillow block riser on the 1/4 thick yoke to give me something to tap. Do I need to use 3/4 plate on the saw frame to get the bearing axils parallel?

Crusarius

I used 1/4 on the yoke/adjustable side and 1/2 on the frame/fixed side

it does not have to be perfect your guides will set the final blade position.

foamnone

 

 

This is 3x3 1/4 over 2.5 tube. It fits perfect with very little slop. Might cause an issue when paint is added.

bwstout

Quote from: foamnone on January 10, 2019, 05:20:04 PM
Quote from: ladylake on January 10, 2019, 06:40:20 AM


 Tube 2.5 x 2.5 1/4

 That seems way to light for a saw frame.  Steve
The plans for the 36 inch saw call for 2x2 3/16. I have somewhere between 0 - no sawmill experience. i'm using the steel I had so I can spend in other areas ... hydraulics
Surplus City as some has mention and I did mill the ends and have a flange bearing on the bottom and pillow block at the top with a  wheel chair motor and I use an ATV wench controller with a momentary switch for the up and down just use sprockets to gear the speed. So for works good been using it for a couple of years now.
home built mill

ktm250rider

I used a 2" OD x 1" ID x 2.5" long yellow spring (414 lb/0.1in)  Ive never measured the blade tension.  I just compress the spring to a certain dimension and everything has been good. 
If you use a spring, make sure its captured some how.  In my design verification phase, mine was free to fly when the blade would fall off the pulleys. 

Kwill

Quote from: foamnone on January 13, 2019, 08:19:16 PM


 

This is 3x3 1/4 over 2.5 tube. It fits perfect with very little slop. Might cause an issue when paint is added.
Did the 3 have a seam?
Built my own hydraulic splitter
Built my own outdoor wood stove
Built my own log arch
built my own bandsaw sawmill
Built my own atv log arch.
Built my own FEL grapple

foamnone

Think this is going to be a 'what not to do' thread.

Welded everything up to save time. Wanted to use the mag drill to knock out the bearing holes. Didnt have a 3/8 mag bit to tap a 1/2-13. Had to put a chuck and use multiple twist bits. Pretty much lost a day.  


Kwill Yes, the larger tube had a welding seam on the inside. 

I welded an old bastard file to the middle of a 3 ft 1x1 tube and was able to file until perfect fit. Took about 20 minutes per yoke piece.

ktm250rider

that's a nice fit.  Wish I would have done that with mine.

Crusarius

I am still contemplating linear bearings in that location.

foamnone

The adjustment yoke for the saw blade guide calls for 2x2 3/16 tube for the 1.5 tube to slid into. Kind of another yoke.

This feels like way too much movement. Seems like it will be an issue when extending and keeping parallel.

Don't have any 2x2. Here is a mock up of what I came up with. Used 3/8 flat stock around 1.5 by 1/4 tube

 





I used 2 Pepsi shims. Welded up 75% and it worked. Finished welding solid and it did not work.
Tomorrow will use 3 Dr. Pepper shims :)

Crusarius

It will find its happy place. I used 2" inside and 2.5 x .188 wall outside. It is sloppy but does not effect tracking at all. I do have nylon alignment bolts on the sides of it to keep it true that direction.

bwstout

that the one thing that I never got just right on my mill I have it too tight and to use a hammer to knock it back and forth going to take it off latter and make some changes to it. So slop I ok?
home built mill

Crusarius

Slop is fine. all that matters is it ends up tracking close to the same point on the bandwheels. once you tension it it will find its happy place and should not have any issues

foamnone

Quote from: Crusarius on January 15, 2019, 05:00:25 PM
It will find its happy place. I used 2" inside and 2.5 x .188 wall outside. It is sloppy but does not effect tracking at all. I do have nylon alignment bolts on the sides of it to keep it true that direction.
Are you talking about the band wheel or the adjustable arm that holds the blade guide? My concern was changing the width cut you adjust the arm (I'm still thinking of making the mill extend to make a 44 inch cut or whatever a 178 inch blade can do)

Crusarius

The slidey piece. The wheels will be fixed to it so they will not move. But if the slidey piece twists it will change your tracking. as for up and down it does not matter. That is why I have 2 nylon bolts threaded into the side of the slidey thing to keep it from twisting.

My thought for making my mill dual width was to have 2 slidey things. one on each end. then have the sawframe long enough you can change it between 2 sets of holes and have it setup for dual width. My blade lengths will be 158" and 176". Both standard lengths. will give me approximately 31" and 41" between the guides.

Crusarius


foamnone

 

 

 

Second time I used 3 aluminum can shims and it worked. Next, will build a stand for the mag drill so I can drill the 3/4 holes for the brackets that hold the other slidey thing.

foamnone

Quote from: Crusarius on January 16, 2019, 09:54:28 AM
The slidey piece. The wheels will be fixed to it so they will not move. But if the slidey piece twists it will change your tracking. as for up and down it does not matter. That is why I have 2 nylon bolts threaded into the side of the slidey thing to keep it from twisting.

My thought for making my mill dual width was to have 2 slidey things. one on each end. then have the sawframe long enough you can change it between 2 sets of holes and have it setup for dual width. My blade lengths will be 158" and 176". Both standard lengths. will give me approximately 31" and 41" between the guides.
I don't quite understand why you need 2 slidey things. Trying to understand because I want the same thing. I had the idea of using an insert that extends The saw frame. ex.
frame is 2.5 tube, insert 2 inch tube 20 inches long in half way. Slide another 2.5 tube over 2 inch tube and use the original slidey thing on top.

Im building by bed and frame to be 62 inches wide 20 ft long. My saw should cut 30-31 between guides. I wanted to cut for a while and learn how it works but would like to understand your idea. 

It seems if you extend the adjustable side everything else stays the same. Cant stops, log stops ect

Crusarius

on the linn build the plans cut a square hole in the slidey thingy for the blade guide to mount to. that makes the blade guide fixed on the main rails. The slidey thingy needs to be installed prior to the guide because it is in a square hole so when the blade breaks it only jumps about 1/2".

If you want to make it dual width by just extending the frame then you will have to unbolt the guide and move it every time you want to change width. this will mess up your guide wheel alignment.

My reasoning for 2 slidey things is so the guide does not have to be removed to change width. that way if you only need wide for 2 cuts you can switch back without having to realign anything.

My plan:
Fixed side would be slidey thing with bolt holes in the side to lock frame in place. Guide connected to the slidey thing. There will be 3 bolt holes in the side for locking the frame in place. The center hole will always be used. Depending on wide or narrow setting depends on whether the front or back hole is used. Then the other side will be just like it is now. so instead of just moving the slidey thing on the adjustable side you would be extending the frame.

This prevent having to do any realignment when changing widths.

If you were to make dual width using the linn design you would have to extend the frame long enough to work. Move the guide to another set of holes readjust the guide then extend the hydraulic ram as well.

My design is just another slidey thing extend the frame a bit and a few more holes.

My original idea was to do what I said above. but I had the idea of dual slidey thingy's the other day and I liked it better. Bonus is all parts are attached so there are no loose parts to lose like a ram extender (tensioner).

Hopefully I will have a bit of time when I get home. I will make a sketch for ya.

Crusarius

I made my bed 50.75" to the outside rails. I kinda regret it for 1 simple reason. I can't quite reach all the way across to get my slabs. I had to buy a hookaroon for that. 

I end up climbing inside the frame quite a bit just so I can adjust and work with stuff. Gets old after a few hours.

You may want to reconsider your width.

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