Bandwheel v belt

[D Martin]

Having a heck of a time getting my  new v belts on and my pillow block bearings off. Anbody who has done this recently have any suggestions. I got the broken bearing free but the other one that i'm repacing is frozen on. I cant get it to spin on the shaft even.

[LeeB]

Are you talking about getting the bearing off the shaft? What kind of mill?

[D Martin]

I cant get the bearing off the shaft, the sleeve that holds the bearing on with the set screw came off easy but the bearing sleeve wont budge. It's a home built mill by some one in maine. also I am changing v belts and  they are being a pain. I soaked them in soapy water but they roll out of the groove as I pry them with a flat bar. :-\

[Brad_S.]

Can't help you with the bearing issue as I can't picture what you are describing in my head, but this thread my help you with the v belt.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,14882.0.html

[LeeB]

You'll most likely have to heat the bearing to get it off. You might be able to beat the snot out of it and get it moving but you risk damage to the shaft. There is also the machine shor route and get it pressed off. Good luck. I went through the same thing with another mill I used to run.

[bandmiller2]

As Lee says your going to need heat preferably oxy-acet for quick heat.Home owner propane torches heat slow and heat shaft too you gain little.It usally helps if you can take the assembly off the mill then a proper press or puller can be used.Frank C.

[D Martin]

Yah thanks. I guess what you call the part that  wont budge is the race. I put some liQuid wrench to it last night and will try again with some heat tonight. I know what you mean with the hammer and bunging it up, as I tried that aproach already. Even being carefull it's a risk. I also tried to get a pipe wrench to bite on the part that sticks out a half inch or so but could not get a grip on it that way. I even tried an small oil filter wrench with emery cloth wraped around the race, i was able to get it to bite but it was not a strong enough wrench to get it to move. then I tried a pice of black iorn pipe 2 inches or so slid over the shaft onto the edge of the race, pound on it,  nuttin. I got the shaft. wheel and everyting off  the mill so at least its easy to work on. Thanks again.     I'm definately ready to try the heat.

[Fla._Deadheader]

IF you have room, Take a sledge hammer and put it against the race. Take another hammer, and hit the race. You will either stretch the race a tad, or break it. Either way, it will come off. May have to work your way around the race to keep from "Ovaling" it.

[Tom]

If it's the bearing race, it is real hard and you can, sometimes, hit it with a cold chisel and hammer  and it will break.

We have a sponser who created an anti-rust and lubricant that the members think is wonderful.  It is Rust Reaper.  You might not have it available now, but perhaps you should look into getting some and putting it on the shelf for next time something is stuck.   It comes with a little tube and a needle so thatl you can use it a drop at a time.  It will crawl right into the frozen area and, with time, usually loosen it better than any other product the guys have found on the market.

He isn't on the left, but his link in Forest Education is a hotlink and will  take you to his website.

[beenthere]

Like Tom just said, hope you have some Rust Reaper.

It can be ordered through Truck Part City (find it on the home page) as well as from Mike at Rust Reaper. RR lives up to its claims, and then some (IMO and those that have tried it).

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,27598.0.html

[Firebass]

Rules of the road...

1* Get a bigger wrench
2* Get a bigger hammer
3* Get the torch out. ;D

[D Martin]

I almost got it done but heat was not the answer. It seems the shaft is either tapered or mushroomed ever so slightly at the end. I busted the bearing housing off (must be cast) ,then cut the bearing race off with a cutting grinder cause it would slide to the end of the shaft then go no further. I am trying to get it off the end that does not have the band wheel. Is the end of the shaft that has the band wheel attached tapered? I did not take the band wheel off the shaft I was trying to avoid that. the fastening system on the band wheel is stamped   taper lock.   I assumed  if there is a tapered end, that would be it. I think if it is mushroomed on the end I'm working the stuff off I may have to grind it down a little to get the rest of the hardware off and the new bearings on. Id sure rather be cutting wood but I'm one of those do it yourselfer yanks tha dont like to pay some one to do stuff I can butcher

[Fla._Deadheader]

Sounds like the end is slightly buggered. If the race slid clear TO the end, just take a GOOD file and file around the shaft. Don't use the grinder and mess up the end. Won't take much to get the shaft round and trued back up.

  Rearing are not cast. They are VERY hard and brittle. That's why I suggested 2 hammers . The race will crack and sometimes break apart.

[solidwoods]

What works for me is to use an angle grinder and grind the bearing race end to end (don't grind through and hit the shaft).  Do that on opposite sides.
You can tell when you are close to the shaft because the race material at the bottom of the ground area will blue.
Both sides done, then the race will break free easy.
jim

[D Martin]

Thanks again, I filed the end of the shaft and it slid off.  8) 8) 8) I had to file a few other spots where the set screws dug in to the shaft to get the second race off.  FDH you can say tha again bout the race metal being hard, every time I struck it a little pice would break off and when it hit my leg it cut into the skin, I now have about six little cuts on my legs from flying metal bitsoneor two were imbedded perty deep, :'( I quickly grabbed some saftey glasses while beating in it. The new bearings slid on very tight. Now if I could only get those DanG new  v belts on

[dutchman]

Try soaking the belts in hot (not boiling) water for about 5 min.
They usually go on alot easier.

[Tom]

Or,......... get some longer belts.  :D

[Larry]

Or,














Delta 20" bandsaw tires are made out of some kind of plastic with steel wires inside, plus a rib that has to snap into a groove in the wheel.  There is a jig to replace the tires...or southern ingenuity works. :D

[D Martin]

New belts are on 8) , what a pain. Now I need a sawdust fix, mmmm maybe some maple I've been saving.