Splitter Freebie and Build

mitchstockdale · April 08, 2019, 01:39:26 PM

Hey all,

Was up to visit my neighbor on the weekend and he offered me this splitter frame. Being one to never turn down a new yard ornament agreed to liberate it from the bushes at the edge of his property.

Would like to get this thing rigged up in good fashion.

I believe it has a 2" or 2.5" x 24" cylinder (might be junk, not sure of seal condition).

What are your suggestions. I was thinking 9hp engine with a 16 gpm 2 stage pump available from local surplus store Princess Auto.

The axle is a piece of HSS and could be used as the tank but I have some reservations about using it since there is a hole in the top (former attempt at installing a bung)and is likely rusty inside, could using a suction line strainer solve this issue and save me $$ on buying a tank.

Anyhow would like some suggestions.

Thanks

jmur1 · April 08, 2019, 02:29:26 PM

Nice find! Looks like a decent catch. Always good to filter the line. Maybe a good idea to pressure test (with air) the tube to confirm it will hold oil before filling.
9hp on a 16 gpm pump should give you a quick full cycle time
By my math I get around 6 seconds (on a 2" cylinder)
Note on this cylinder (if it is 2") you will only have 9420 lbs of split (on a 3000 psi pump).
Depending on your typical wood type you may not have enough power to split.
Most splitters have a little bigger cylinder (3.5" will get up to at least 14 ton or 28000lbs).
Up to you if you want to try it out.
One other comment: It looks from the pic as though someone did not allow for the cylinder to bottom out before it would hit the wedge. This may be something to fix before using it - you may end up dulling that wedge up if it is making contact. It looks like the cylinder could be moved back from the pic.

jmur1

mitchstockdale · April 08, 2019, 03:35:36 PM

Quote from: jmur1 on April 08, 2019, 02:29:26 PM
Nice find! Looks like a decent catch. Always good to filter the line. Maybe a good idea to pressure test (with air) the tube to confirm it will hold oil before filling.
9hp on a 16 gpm pump should give you a quick full cycle time
By my math I get around 6 seconds (on a 2" cylinder)
Note on this cylinder (if it is 2") you will only have 9420 lbs of split (on a 3000 psi pump).
Depending on your typical wood type you may not have enough power to split.
Most splitters have a little bigger cylinder (3.5" will get up to at least 14 ton or 28000lbs).
Up to you if you want to try it out.
One other comment: It looks from the pic as though someone did not allow for the cylinder to bottom out before it would hit the wedge. This may be something to fix before using it - you may end up dulling that wedge up if it is making contact. It looks like the cylinder could be moved back from the pic.

jmur1

Thanks for the numbers.. most of my splitting is spruce, fir, white birch, maple...nothing too tough. i think I will try out the cylinder and if its not going to cut it I will throw in a bigger cylinder. Yes certainly there is only about 19" between the pusher and the wedge and could definitely have a collision. As you pointed out there is lots of room to move the cylinder back.

maple flats · April 08, 2019, 08:26:53 PM

If just a 2" cylinder it will be a challenge splitting tough wood, but it will likely be easier and faster than splitting by hand.
I made a splitter using a 4" cylinder and it was powered with a 6 HP and a 2 speed pump. It had a hard time on knotty blocks. Then my brother converted it to run off the hydraulics on his ASV, something like 2700 PSI, it then split much better. If he gets one now that doesn't want to split he uses a shear he has and runs that on his Toolcat at 2900 PSI, just 200 more PSI but that works.

mitchstockdale · April 12, 2019, 10:08:42 AM

Picked up an engine and valve yesterday. Engine is a surplus Karcher pressure washer engine, got it for about 1/2 the price of a new in box Power Fist brand. Also got the valve 1/2 price.

mitchstockdale · April 12, 2019, 10:11:28 AM

One question the engine mounting plate is above the oil reservoir meaning the pump would have to pull hydraulis oil up maybe 6 inches to the pump. Should hydraulic pump inlets always be flooded or is it ok to have the level of oil below the pump. I was wondering if I should add a stand pipe to my reservoir to flood the inlet.

btulloh · April 12, 2019, 10:14:40 AM

Most splitters I've seen have the pump above the tank.

Banjo picker · April 12, 2019, 08:25:41 PM

It will cost you a few dollars before you split any wood.

I started out with this find at a discount store for $40.00 that I could not pass up. It has the cylinder enclosed and splits both ways....but

by the time I got to where I could bust wood, I had over $600 bucks in it. It was fun to build though, and sure beats the old busting maul. Banjo

jmur1 · April 17, 2019, 04:46:31 PM

Hi mitchstockdale:

When you fill the tank make sure you leave some space at the top for expansion, air bubbles, and valve shocks. It will send oil everywhere if you do not. The pump does not need to be flooded - it will quickly fill with oil if the tank is properly vented.

jmur1

jmur1 · April 19, 2019, 10:28:46 AM

Hi mitchstockdale:

I will add however this article explains that if you can flood the pump you should - it will add life to your pump.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/2473/mounting-hydraulic-pumps

jmur1

mitchstockdale · April 23, 2019, 08:03:54 AM

Quote from: jmur1 on April 19, 2019, 10:28:46 AM
Hi mitchstockdale:

I will add however this article explains that if you can flood the pump you should - it will add life to your pump.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/2473/mounting-hydraulic-pumps

jmur1

wow...great article jmur1 thanks alot.

rubberfish · April 24, 2019, 08:04:51 AM

Mitch, what a great neighbour you have. That's a great score. I've had my eye out
for something like that for a while. Planning on rigging one up to my backhoe.
Enjoy your new find. ;D

luap · April 26, 2019, 07:23:25 PM

It doesn't matter if oil level is below pump. Poor a little oil in the hose from pump to control valve when you connect that line to control valve. Even without doing that it would self prime. Once primed oil will not run back and allow air in when shut off. Your return line to tank should enter the top of the tank and have a stand tube that brings the return oil close to the bottom of the tank. This prevents mixing air in your oil and foaming which can cause cavitation in your system. I would add an oil filter in the return line. Rule of thumb on size of oil tank is 1 1/2 times gpm of pump, but that is intended for something that runs 24/7. Almost nobody does that though. I have a 13 gpm pump and my tank is a 14" long piece of 8" pipe. For really cold weather starting I installed a by pass valve that routes the oil back into the return line. My current splitter has a 4"x 24" cylinder and ram that stops less than 1/4" from wedge. I have a detent on return stroke so you don't have to hold lever, has hydraulic lift table and off bearing table so there is no bending over picking up pieces.

luap · April 26, 2019, 07:35:04 PM

Reading the fine print on the valve box it appears it is detent valve for return stroke. You will like that.

mitchstockdale · June 19, 2019, 09:50:52 AM

Does anyone by chance know the size of the bolts required to mount the hydraulic pump bracket to an engine. I tried some M8x1.25 but those were too small. (The fastener store is about an hours drive and want to narrow the choices down)

It is a 302cc engine and I am using the larger holes.

Cant seem to find any details on the engine or any general details online for any standard bolt sizes.

Any help would be great, thanks.

mitchstockdale · June 19, 2019, 11:04:22 AM

might have figured it out.....is it a ....3/8" - 16?

I have able to find some dimensional drawings of a subaru engine and a kohler command pro about the same HP and they both said 3/8" - 16, hoping someone can confirm

Crusarius · June 19, 2019, 11:48:08 AM

If it is anything like my predator there are 3 maybe 4 different mounting holes that are different sizes and threads. But 3/8 16 is very possible.

TKehl · June 19, 2019, 11:54:30 AM

Don't know, but driving that far, I'd take the engine and pump with me. ;) Not only the right thread, but need to be about the right length. Too short equals another trip... >:( Been there... :D

mitchstockdale · June 21, 2019, 07:50:25 AM

Quote from: TKehl on June 19, 2019, 11:54:30 AM
Don't know, but driving that far, I'd take the engine and pump with me. ;)

That just makes too much sense

...Unfortunately the engine is at my dads shop 45 mins the other direction...doh!
Just hoped to get it narrowed down to a couple sizes..

Al_Smith · June 21, 2019, 12:37:37 PM

If you are worried about the pump loosing prime just put a check valve in the suction line .My home built has the 16 GPM pump below the tank outlet .It's got a 5" cylinder and an 11 HP Briggs engine .I don't even run it wide open .It's fast enough to wear this old man out as it is a little above half throttle .

That 2 or 2.5 " cylinder might work with the knife edge cutter because it takes less force than a wedge .You might just have to run it full stroke most of the time because of little or no wedging action .I'd move the cylinder back though .